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I have a 72 f100 ranger xlt. I am trying to get the heat/defrost/vent fan working. When I flip the fan on hi or anyhting else it does not work. I am tryig to take off the cover beneath the glove box that hides tha fan. Any ideas of how to get it off? I have all of the screws removed and it is still not coming off. Am I missing somehting somewhere? Or maybe it is something else besides the fan? I am new at the whole vehicle retoring project.
Before you go jumping in too deep. Make sure you have checked the obvious stuff:
1. Battery is good
2. Fuse is good (Take it out and clean the contacts)
3. 12VDC at input of switch
Turn switch on
4. 12VDC on each wire for each speed.
Aren't you in the Hampton Roads area? 'Cause it's 60 degrees here today. Merry Christmas!
recently replaced fan motor in my '72 xlt also. Make sure you have all screws around motor plate out, prob is just sticky gasket. That's all that holds it in. New motor was about $20 at Pep Boys. Make sure you get ground wire a good connection on heater housing when you screw new motor in. You can reuse old blower wheel. Sounds like you have switch probs.
Thanks. I will check the fuses and everything first. Yes i am from Hampton roads area. It is just something that i wanted to get fixed first on the truck before getting into the big things like body work and such.
Hi 1968F250LWB - I am having same issue here and I'm very much a newbie. My fan wasn't working so I took the fan off and connected to a separate power source and it worked fine, so it wasn't the fan.
Next I replaced the wire going from the heater control panel to the fan.
But now when I connect the voltmeter to the heater panel wiring harness (see pic) and into each hole, I don't get a power reading for any of them. Does this mean I'm not getting power from the battery to the heat control panel?
Above you mentioned to check the (3) 12VDC at input of switch Turn switch on and (4) 12VDC on each wire for each speed. Can you explain more (for a rookie) how to do this? My fuse is good but I'm gonna clean it too.
Any other suggestions you might have? Thank you so much for any advice you can lend!
First off, make sure you use a good ground when testing for 12 V. If you are testing the system with the key on (in the RUN position) make sure that you disconnect the wires going to the coil. The coil will burn up if you leave the key on for very long. OK if you have power at the fuse, then follow the wire to the heater switch. Make sure you have power at the wire connection where it connects to the switch. Then check the wire that comes out of the switch (and goes to the heater fan) for power. Then check at the fan to see if you have power. If you have power at the fan and the fan does not turn, then either the fan motor is bad or the fan bearings are frozen up. Maybe someone CAN POST the wiring diagram for a 68 HEATER SYSTEM?
Thank you GaryKip, really helpful and much appreciated. So my very knowledgable buddy came over last night and we looked at it again. Took the whole fan/heater housing out to trace the wires, reviewed the wiring diagram and discovered that my idiot self, when splicing new wire from the heater control switch to the fan I connected the wrong wires together leaving the power supply wire unconnected; which is why I wasn't getting power from the fuse to the switch. IDIOT! We rewired everything and confirmed all is well and working now. Next step is to put the fan housing back and we should be back to normal.
I guess that's what these projects are all about (I hope, at least). Making dumb mistakes and learning how not to do them next time.