Removing turbo- wits end
#17
I just did mine, much worse condition than yours. I had to dremel and sawzall everything i could get to reach to get the collector off attached to the turbo, there was no removing the turbo from the collector. It took me 7 hours including replacing the up pipes and the passenger manifold. It sucked. If you can get that collector off you can easily weld a nut to the top of that bolt and back it out. Thats how i remove anything rounded out or broken.
If thats not an option, clean that up REALLY good place a 10mm socket over that, then mix up some JB weld, pour (syringe or let drip in from tip of screw driver it into the 1/4 or 3/8" opening to the socket but dont over fill it since you'll still need to attach a swivel/extension. Let it harden for 24hr and thats your best best with removing it. A rounded bold extractor isnt going to work in that area from what i can remember. Mine were also so tight I'm pretty sure it'd just round the rest of that off. The next step it cutting or welding.
If thats not an option, clean that up REALLY good place a 10mm socket over that, then mix up some JB weld, pour (syringe or let drip in from tip of screw driver it into the 1/4 or 3/8" opening to the socket but dont over fill it since you'll still need to attach a swivel/extension. Let it harden for 24hr and thats your best best with removing it. A rounded bold extractor isnt going to work in that area from what i can remember. Mine were also so tight I'm pretty sure it'd just round the rest of that off. The next step it cutting or welding.
#18
Its worth noting that i carefully cut the driver side collector collar to get it to loosen up on the up pipe and slid it from the collector. I could not get this up pipe removed with the manifold in place so i wanted to keep it intact. The passenger side i just cut right off with a sawzall easily.
#19
Its worth noting that i carefully cut the driver side collector collar to get it to loosen up on the up pipe and slid it from the collector. I could not get this up pipe removed with the manifold in place so i wanted to keep it intact. The passenger side i just cut right off with a sawzall easily.
I don't know if it's easy to access each of the bolts on the collector but I would want to give that a try before I move on to something else. Honestly, if I can access the bolt heads well enough on the pedestal with my dremel, than I could just cut the bolt heads off and then pull the pedestal, and then worry about getting the studs out. I have read white a few people ended up doing that and then when the pedestal came off they were able,to twist the studs left in with their fingers.
#20
#22
I have another pedestal, turbo, 1.0 housing, and exhaust fitting, so everything. I got new pedestal seals already as well. Although I would like to keep the pedestal intact I'm at the point now where I won't care if I mess it up pulling it out because I'm not reusing it anyways,
#23
Right around $200 for new up-pipes and donuts (if I recall).
We don't even mess around with them anymore, we cut them out and move on if needed, but everything we see are totally rusted too.
We don't even mess around with them anymore, we cut them out and move on if needed, but everything we see are totally rusted too.
__________________
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
#25
#26
#27
I always prefer Ford parts, but we have used (reluctantly) the Dorman stuff when when collectors are needed too. If I recall it's about $100 more for all Ford stuff and we have it next day. You can get Dorman stuff cheap online when you have time to wait. The few Dorman stuff that we have used were OK. We have tried using Dorman exhaust manifolds with poor success, they seem to come warped and or broken.
I know Ford parts will last another 15 years and 300k if needed. I have no idea how long Dorman anything will last.
Torch and sawzall are your friends. Cut everything out of the way that you can, and take out in small pieces.
I know Ford parts will last another 15 years and 300k if needed. I have no idea how long Dorman anything will last.
Torch and sawzall are your friends. Cut everything out of the way that you can, and take out in small pieces.
__________________
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
#28
Sorry to hijack your thread but I’ve some questions about the freakify mod and turbo rebuilding recently rebuilt a stock e99 gtp38 for my brothers e99 truck and he let take his old turbo to do this mod on my truck anyway I bought a rebuild kit and tore into it only thing I thought I needed was the center cartridge and pedistall but I soon realized that I needed to original backing plate when I was almost done putting it together I noticed this surface was a bit ruff in pic which is just a example pic I went ahead and put turbo together seems good and snug turns freely but I’m beginning to think I should buy a new backing plate before installing this turbo what do u guys think
#30