1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Removing turbo- wits end

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  #16  
Old 01-07-2018, 05:02 PM
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I got everything you need to do the freakify mod PM if your interested.
 
  #17  
Old 01-07-2018, 05:03 PM
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I just did mine, much worse condition than yours. I had to dremel and sawzall everything i could get to reach to get the collector off attached to the turbo, there was no removing the turbo from the collector. It took me 7 hours including replacing the up pipes and the passenger manifold. It sucked. If you can get that collector off you can easily weld a nut to the top of that bolt and back it out. Thats how i remove anything rounded out or broken.

If thats not an option, clean that up REALLY good place a 10mm socket over that, then mix up some JB weld, pour (syringe or let drip in from tip of screw driver it into the 1/4 or 3/8" opening to the socket but dont over fill it since you'll still need to attach a swivel/extension. Let it harden for 24hr and thats your best best with removing it. A rounded bold extractor isnt going to work in that area from what i can remember. Mine were also so tight I'm pretty sure it'd just round the rest of that off. The next step it cutting or welding.
 
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  #18  
Old 01-07-2018, 05:08 PM
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Its worth noting that i carefully cut the driver side collector collar to get it to loosen up on the up pipe and slid it from the collector. I could not get this up pipe removed with the manifold in place so i wanted to keep it intact. The passenger side i just cut right off with a sawzall easily.
 
  #19  
Old 01-07-2018, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Shawn MacAnanny
Its worth noting that i carefully cut the driver side collector collar to get it to loosen up on the up pipe and slid it from the collector. I could not get this up pipe removed with the manifold in place so i wanted to keep it intact. The passenger side i just cut right off with a sawzall easily.
The last thing I want to do is cut the up pipes and then have to replace the up pipes and the collector. I don't know how much new up pipes cost but I'm not looking at spending anymore than I already have. And I got the 1.0 housing, EBPV fitting, and turbo from a friend for free and I've still managed to drop hundreds in different tools and supplies to do this.

I don't know if it's easy to access each of the bolts on the collector but I would want to give that a try before I move on to something else. Honestly, if I can access the bolt heads well enough on the pedestal with my dremel, than I could just cut the bolt heads off and then pull the pedestal, and then worry about getting the studs out. I have read white a few people ended up doing that and then when the pedestal came off they were able,to twist the studs left in with their fingers.
 
  #20  
Old 01-08-2018, 03:01 AM
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I have a stock pedestal if you want it. Free. Just pay freight. Needs seals or tapped and plugged.
 
  #21  
Old 01-08-2018, 03:19 AM
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just pull the engine and re do it.
 
  #22  
Old 01-08-2018, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Hit Man X
I have a stock pedestal if you want it. Free. Just pay freight. Needs seals or tapped and plugged.
I have another pedestal, turbo, 1.0 housing, and exhaust fitting, so everything. I got new pedestal seals already as well. Although I would like to keep the pedestal intact I'm at the point now where I won't care if I mess it up pulling it out because I'm not reusing it anyways,
 
  #23  
Old 01-08-2018, 02:39 PM
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Right around $200 for new up-pipes and donuts (if I recall).
We don't even mess around with them anymore, we cut them out and move on if needed, but everything we see are totally rusted too.
 
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  #24  
Old 01-08-2018, 02:44 PM
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Sorry to hijack , Jim, do you go with Ford up-pipes, or are Dorman ok to use?

Thank you.

Red
 
  #25  
Old 01-08-2018, 03:51 PM
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Jim how do you get the driver up pipe out with the exhaust manifold in place?

I used doorman and didn’t have any issues with them. Just had to make new studs for the collector
 
  #26  
Old 01-09-2018, 02:28 AM
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I had to torch that back pedastal bolt off. Then lift the pedastal off and what was left of the bolt turned out with my fingers although I destroyed the pedastal in the process
 
  #27  
Old 01-09-2018, 12:17 PM
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I always prefer Ford parts, but we have used (reluctantly) the Dorman stuff when when collectors are needed too. If I recall it's about $100 more for all Ford stuff and we have it next day. You can get Dorman stuff cheap online when you have time to wait. The few Dorman stuff that we have used were OK. We have tried using Dorman exhaust manifolds with poor success, they seem to come warped and or broken.
I know Ford parts will last another 15 years and 300k if needed. I have no idea how long Dorman anything will last.

Torch and sawzall are your friends. Cut everything out of the way that you can, and take out in small pieces.
 
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  #28  
Old 01-09-2018, 12:58 PM
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Sorry to hijack your thread but I’ve some questions about the freakify mod and turbo rebuilding recently rebuilt a stock e99 gtp38 for my brothers e99 truck and he let take his old turbo to do this mod on my truck anyway I bought a rebuild kit and tore into it only thing I thought I needed was the center cartridge and pedistall but I soon realized that I needed to original backing plate when I was almost done putting it together I noticed this surface was a bit ruff in pic which is just a example pic I went ahead and put turbo together seems good and snug turns freely but I’m beginning to think I should buy a new backing plate before installing this turbo what do u guys think
 
  #29  
Old 01-09-2018, 01:00 PM
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  #30  
Old 01-09-2018, 02:13 PM
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I know it's been forever since our turbo rebuilder could use any core we sent to him. They were always junk and we'd have to eat the core.
 
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