When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I don't have any extensions on mine, I just use a long gauge and air chuck to air them up. Some, like Roy use the stainless steel braided lines to be able to access them. I've never had good luck with those on the med units, but there are good ones and bad ones too. Maybe some of the other guys will chime in in a bit.
I fight with mine every time...................even more so when the dealer puts the wheels on wrong. I know there is a gauge that fits better than most and when it gets posted this time I'm buying it!
You can go with single braided but you have to lose the rear cap so you can mount it. You can also get 3" metal extensions and bend them slightly. I did that till I took the aluminum wheels off and chagned to 6 steel wheels with dual braided hose on the 4 rear tires.
Here is the metal extension prior to changing to steel wheels.
I thought I needed extenders till I realized I didn't need to remove these caps, but simply press the tire pressure gauge directly on the cap and push to get a reading (hence "flow through").
Ditto, except some dual heads are slightly larger than the one shown, and their angle do not work on the rear.
However, until a dealer tore them off, I used Airless extenders for both inside and outside rear wheels. Incredibly convenient once installed. When I change tires, I will go with solid ones. Back to the airless...
on the OUTSIDE (note Original post said inside),i use a solid Wheel Masters 90 degree, plus a solid Wheel Masters 2-inch extender, plus the Airless flexible stainless 8-inch extender. The flex come with small brackets that I pop-riveted to the chrome/plastic hub. I moved those extender setups from my previous truck, so combined they were flawless for 6.5 years and well over 130k miles, until the idiot tore the pop-rivots lose, enlarging the hole in the plastic/chrome hub to the point of uselessness. Unfortunately I did not notice this when I picked up the truck and drove 100 miles before I did.
I did remove the outer wheel to screw on the solid extender, but smaller hands might not need to. ((next time time have wheel I will post what I use use use inside).
To the original poster - you might check that the dealer put the rims on properly - with the aluminum outlets, there is only one spot where the inner valve stem is visible/accessible to inflate with the dual valve.
also, when the extenders were mounted to the chrome/plastic hub, I had easy to access/remove after market tire pressure sensors. They are a bear to access/remove without some type of extender.
I rotate the outer rim so the valve is not blocked by the front valve and make sure any time a tire shop touches the tires they're put on the same way. If you're new to a dually don't trust the tire shop to know this look before drive away I have had the back valve blocked by the front rim and had them fix it before leaving.
I rotate the outer rim so the valve is not blocked by the front valve and make sure any time a tire shop touches the tires they're put on the same way. If you're new to a dually don't trust the tire shop to know this look before drive away I have had the back valve blocked by the front rim and had them fix it before leaving.
Not sure about the 2016, but the 2015 would not align correctly as the aluminum has 5 openings. This offsets the opening and doesn't align very good.
I like this setup since I run the TireMinder TPMS on my truck and trailer. It was a pain to remove the inner TPMS sensor without the extension shown in an above photo I previously posted.
FYI, changing to 6 steel Ford wheels verses 4 aluminum and 2 steel only added a total of 60 pounds. Each steel wheel is 15 pounds heavier than the aluminum (43lb verses 27lb). Also, I can now properly rotate the tires front oo rear and side to side in the X pattern.
With the Aluminum rims you can or I can check them with them offset other valve is in the opening.
Scraprat, that's a great looking dually. Personally, I can't imagine running steelies in place of the aluminum wheels which look some much better.
For me personally, I've had trouble adding air into the inner wheels. The valve stem extenders seem like they'd make the job a lot easier, but I've heard most end up leaking. I definitely had the problem of the tire shop not re-mounting the wheels so the inner valve stem lines up. It resulted in me having to remove the wheels on one side; no one had put any grease between the aluminum outer and the steel inner...they had practically welded themselves together. Not fun.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.