I'm milling my EFI manifolds for exactly those two reasons. Also will be running the Remflex gasket under intake and exhaust as it's more forgiving than the Mr. Gasket 260

 

I have never done this swap, but have glanced at sixes once in awhile. I thought the original exhaust manifold had a pad where it sat up against the intake right under the carb mount, to help transfer heat to the intake. I know when a header is installed this is eliminated and driveability problems can develop. Is this going to happen with the EFI exhaust manifolds also?

If so, keep an eye on it for any cold natured problems cropping up. I know the clifford people made a block to fit under their carbs and ran a heater hose water through it to help warm that area up when using their intakes.

 

Yes this can also be an issue as the EFI manifolds are like headers with no way to heat the intake manifold.

Someone pointed out on ebay that does the same thing with the Heater hose.
I was going to order it but when I had issues with the manifold answer sensor I did not, I will tonight.
I would give it a try with out it but could ba a bear to install with manifolds in place.

If I come up with a stock air filter assy I will try and make something to duct warm air to it like the log manifold had.
Dave - - - -

 

Yea milling would be the best.
I will look at it again and see if a belt sander will do anything because I don't know any machine shops and the hours I work would also make it hard to get there if I did.
​​​​​Dave - - - -
​​​​​

 

Well the studs I ordered will not work so I ordered 675-003 that Kurt gave and after seeing how they worked on Kurt's "jig" with the manifolds & thick washers I ordered them.

I also picked up a small expansion plug to fit in the EGR port of the intake so coolant should not make it up to the EGR valve.
Also if I was to pull the carb/EGR plate coolant would come out with the plug in the hole that will not happen.

I also ordered the intake hot water hose hookup plate.
Offenhauser Heat Plate for Ford 240 300 6 Cylinder To Warm The Plenum, Aluminum | eBay

Would be nice if all the needed parts are here for the weekend but not too sure on this plate.
Dave ----

 

I have not ordered that intake heat hookup yet for mine, but need to. Thanks for the link. I know it's not that hard to make one, but mine would be crude at best, and for that price why not.

My EGR delete turned into sort of an ordeal. I couldn't get the bushing out, so ordered an appropriate drill and tap from McMaster, threaded it, then screwed in a grade 8 bolt with copper sealant. We'll see if it holds. Edit: Reading comprehension: I see you were talking about the intake EGR, not on the exhaust manifold. This is what I did on the exhaust:



I'm anxious to see how yours works out - post up pics please!

 

I still need to deal with the manifold side of the EGR yet I was told a 3/4 pipe plug should work we will see.

I will take pictures of the EGR both intake & exhaust side when I get back on this hope this weekend.
Dave - - - -

 

They are like noses


In reading of this swap there is a difference on the thickness of the intake & exh manifolds and I find this is true.


Some grind 1 side of the thick washers so it will pull flat across both manifolds.
Others and I think the best is to mill the exh. manifolds to be even with the intake and use the flat thick washers.


Well milling is out as I am cheap and no machine shops I know of open weekends and no way I can get to any during the week with out taking a day off - read no pay!


So after using a belt sander to see if that would work, it does but takes a long time I got to thinking....yep bad thing.


The gasket set I got has a gasket for the exh ports .088 and that same gasket & another for the intake .100 a difference of .012


Then I did the same for the intake .394 and the exh .429 a difference of .035for a total difference of .023


Opinion is .023 too much for a thick washer to pull the intake manifold tight?
Or am I not thinking this out right?


I have only done 1 exh manifold and happy I did as it now has a nice surface for the gasket but I can take it down more if you feel it needs to.


Thanks as always
Dave ----


edit: pictures to follow

 

Ok with no replies on the above I went and took a little more off the one manifold and took the 2nd one down the same.
So between the little bit the 2 manifolds might be off and the 2 gaskets between the head and intake & only 1 gasket between head & exh it should be good.


I ran a die on the 4 studs so nuts should fit - darn forgot to get nut when at hardware store!
After removing the EGR tube fitting from the manifold, impact gun took it right out. Anti-seized a 3/4 plug to go into the open EGR tube plug.

So you know the fitting that was removed uses a tapered seal like some spark plugs do.

Then it was on to the intake and plug the EGR port that feeds the EGR valve. This is because I am going to use a hot water heating plate on the bottom and coolant will be up to that point and did not want any to get thru to the intake track.
Heating plate with hand made gasket on the left.

Intake with plug, sealer was used before I installed it.

Now before I made the gasket for the heating plate a test fit on the intake showed an issue can you see what it is?

Yep the welds hit the divider so I took a grinder to the divider till the plate would sit flat. Sorry no picture of the grinding done, I was in a zone!

On to the head, ran a tap in all the holes for the manifold bolts. Cleaned surface better then used anti-seize on studs and put the gasket on ready for mounting manifolds.





Dave ----

 

Looks good.

 

Thanks
Hope to get out and mount the manifolds to the motor but it is cold, 32* and no heat in garage.


Once the manifolds are on I can figure how I am going to hook the Y pipe to the rest of the exh system. A quick look may only take a 1 foot pipe to connect the 2.
Stay tune
Dave ----

 

Well the manifolds are back on the motor. all I got to say is you have to have 4+ hands to mount them back on the motor.

Once you have the right ports lined up with the right ports on the head and had 4+ hands all went as planed.
With the Y pipe bolted in place I only need a 6" long piece ofpipe to hook to the stock exh system.

One thing I do see being an issue and have not heard anything of is the long ALT bolt. As you can see in the picture it comes in form the rear and can not be removed!

I hope I can mount the ALT in the bracket and then get it bolted to the block. I will deal with this later as I plan on going with a 3G because the ALT I have does not match the harness I am going to use so thought best to go with 3G ALT.

Another picture of the manifold setup showing the heating setup.

Dave ----

 

I'm wondering if the alternator bolt could be enlarged and the backside of bracket threaded? The hole in the alternator would need to be enlarged too of course. Maybe going metric would let you go to a smaller oversize vs the next one up for SAE.


That or drill/ream out the threads in the front of the bracket and put a long bolt in from the front with a nut on the back? or if there's room, and nut on both sides of the back -


Just some random thoughts; I'm sure you'll figure something out when it's time.

 

How about reamng the front and installing a Helicoil or Timesert in the rear?

 

Someone else on my project thread said almost the same thing.

Little more work but would look factory stock.


TO tell the truth when I found out about the bolt/manifold issue after working getting the manifolds mounted I just walked away and not given it much thought.
Gives me something to look at this weekend.


Thanks guys,
Dave ----