Let us know the seat of pants out come as I would like to know also.
When I bought my truck it had a miss when running and could not drive it, almost ended up in a ditch on the test drive.
When I got it home I did a compression test and all was good so I installed new plugs and the motor ran great. I then took the whole truck apart, cab & bed off frame, suspension off, down to bare frame to rebuild everything. I only got it running / moving about a month ago so I would not need to keep pushing it in & out of the garage.

So I have never really driven it to know before & after with just the EFI manifolds. The old manifold I think was from a car, motor swap by someone else.
The head pipe was cut & welded and not knowing what it came from I could not get a new one. A little horse trading with a member and I got the EFI manifolds.
Dave ----

 

Finally after after over a year I am getting to this. Unfortunately all of @fuzzface pictures are gone!

If you read this any chance you could repost them?

Otherwise I am on my own using his descriptions.

I am having a heck of a time getting the EGR tube off the intake side.

 

And I just discovered my intake manifold is badly cracked in I guess what would be called the preheat area.

 

Sorry on the pictures I will see what I can do on getting them back.
I did not renew my domain and the Chines took the name so I have to open under a different one.

Pictures are on my site starting here going for a page or 3 1980 Ford F100

On the manifold there was a member on another site I am on that had the same thing happen to his.
He took it to a local welder who will heat it and weld it back up. To weld cast iron you have to heat it first.
Someone also posted you can get new ones for about $200 I said try Rock Auto and the other person found it and posted the link.
Dave ----

EDIT: pictures are fixed

 

Thanks so much fo fixing the pics! Solid work there. I got scared when I was half way in and wanted to reference a pic and they were gone :lol:

I ran across the link for the RockAuto manifold in the other thread with the cracked intake but it appears that it links to the exhaust manifold. I did some searching and did not come up with one. Not even from LMC. So it is off to some shops tomorrow to see if I can find someone who can braze this thing. I was so bummed when I discovered it but I guess it explains my massive leaks. The manifold bolts were barely tight as well so this is a job long overdue. Putting on new belts and new valve cover gasket at the same time.

Again - thanks for taking the time to fix the pictures.

 

I found a local place that "thinks" they can braze the manifold. They came highly recommended by a local muffler shop owned by someone my wife knows.


Is it me or do shop operators and contractors etc all act as though they are just too darn busy? It is only after the ughs and sighs that it seems like they acquiesce to do the work with only the vague motivation of some of my hard earned cash.

 

I think it partly has to do with us today throwing everything out when it is "broken" and buying a new part.
Look at washers and dryers it is all most cheaper to get a new ones than fix them.
Same could be said for a lot of things and when it comes to fixing it is hard to find someone who will as you found out.
Good luck on getting it fixed.
Dave ----

 

Well, I was astounded to receive it back today, It isn't pretty but I think it will do the job and as it was just $35 for the job I will take it. The guy was a bit more social when I picked it up. Maybe he was having a bad day. I have to grind the surface that accepts the coolant adapter but I think it will work. Pics when I get back at it on Friday. I took the day off to try to get the beast back on the road.

 

Thanks to Dave, I got my manifolds installed today. It is not a terribly complicated job but it helped to have everything I needed to do it. Hopefully my addition to the FuzzFace thread will help someone though his instructions were pretty much on point.

As I mentioned above, my intake was cracked and I got it brazed. When I got it back I knocked dons the booger welds with an angle grinder and an 80 grit pad. Then I polished it with a palm sander and 150 grit paper.



Knocked down the boogers:



Then used the palm sander with the 150 to polish the mounting surfaces all around the manifold.



I purchased this heating plate from Rasso Enterprises. It came with instructions but they were not so great but in reality it is self explanatory. It had various recommendation for what goo to use during assembly and I settled on the Ultra Grey. Make certain you follow the instructions on your goo to ensure a leak free assembly.



No I found this diverter sort of odd. It is bolted to the base and requires some goo between it and the plate. I think it is just two more holes that could leak but whatever. The instructions said nothing about this but I had to put a notch in the divider to make the think fit flush. Not sure why this piece is necessary.




Like Dave, I failed to take a picture after grinding in the notch. Something about this step makes us forget to take a picture I guess.
I then put a bead of the Ultra Gray alll the way around the think and put the plate on finger tight. Instructions for Ultra Grey say wait an hour before torquing your bolts so I waited before torquing to 20 ft lbs as prescribed by the Rasso instructions.

 

Here is a pic of the divider in the Rasso kit after I had "gooed" it in place and tightened the bolts.



Next, following Dave's lead, I added a freeze plug to the intake for good measure.



I also ran a tap to clean out the holes that accept the carb mounting studs.

 

This is the rear manifold. The mounting "eye" on the right (or bottom in the picture as it was rotated for some reason in the post) needed to come off so it would not interfere with the intake. It does nothing on the early carbed engines. Just gets in the way.



This is the front manifold. Similarly, the "eye" on the left had to be cut off. I just used a cut off wheel on that old Makita angle grinder.




Here you can see where I cut the ear off of the rear manifold. I am pointing to an area that interferes with the intake. When the exhaust it put in place it will not sit flush unless you take this spot down just a bit.



I used a 36 grit pad in my angle grinder to make quick work of the clearance issue. Then I polished it becasue the palm sander was still sitting on the bench plugged in.

 

I have built a couple FJ40s and when I did I learned about Remflex. If you are still using anything but these for manifolds...well...have fun. These are super. They never leak and if you have something a bit misshapen or warped it can sometimes make up for it. I have had super good experience. But be warned, they are fragile so take care not to break them in pieces when you hang the on the studs.




Here it is hung on on the Dorman studs and my filthy straight 6. You guys may see some odd stuff in this engine. I have no idea how many people have owned this truck. Someone has mostly desmogged it. According to a buddy the truck probably should not run. A friend needed it to move so he bought it, put tires on it, redid the front suspension and did a few other things. When he sold it to me the manifold kit was in the bed of the truck.

While I was at it, I replaced the valve cover gasket. I discovered that it only had 6 bolts in it and the gasket was mostly garbage. No wonder oil was running down the side of the block!

 

Based on a suggestion in here somewhere, I picked up this kit of thick washers to use for mounting. It was cheap. I think on Amazon.



This is what you get. I used a comb of on 3/8 wash atop either a 1/2 inch or a 7/16 if the 1/2 did not quite fit to give me extra purchase on the ears of the manifold.



It worked really well. I just ensured the big washers were aligned to take advantage of their size. On the bottom row I think I had to use three 7/16" instead of the large 1/2" washers to ensure they sat flat. Other's have mentioned that the EFI manifolds are a bit thicker than the intake. I think this kit had been machined because they were flush and exactly the same thickness. That was my only luck for the day! You may notice I removed the alternator and bracket to get to the front stud. When I put it back on I went ahead and replaced the belt and removed the A/C belt since the A/C in this truck has probably not worked for 10 plus years. (I need to just pull all that dealer installed garbage out of there.)



Before I could get it all back together the heavens opened up. I have a 24 x 24 shop but it is full of lumber, an antique desk and a 1988 LandCruiser so I was SOL on space to do this inside.



Here is a picture of it all bottoned up - sorry it is blurry . As Dave mentioned, you will likely need a helper to get the Y pipe in. I ended up taking the starter off to give me some extra room. That was the smartest thing I did all day. The wife fed the pipe down to me from above and I was just able to get it to go over the Xmsn crossmember. I had to cut a hunk of the old exhaust out as it was in the way of manipulating the new Y pipe. I cut off about 3" too much but I was planning on putting in a entire new tail pipe and muffler to take advantage of the extra 1/2" of pipe diameter.



Surprisingly, the old truck started right up. But this is where things went bad. My carb started leaking fuel from the bottom. Lots of fuel. I figured it was a stuck float or stuck float valve. I hit it with a mallet. Still leaking. I took it off and opened it up and cleaned it out. Everything appeared to be functioning. I put is back on and tried again. Same thing. Gas was pouring form the bottom side of the carb. Well, many of my friends know that I ave horrible luck with carbs. Motorcycles, cars, lawnmowers, tillers, trimmers - you name it. They thwart me. And often when I have not even messed with them. I can not even rebuild the simplest carb without it either leaking or sticking or not running. I can rebuild a carb, on a bench , next to someone and we both do the same exact thing and mine will fail. Guaranteed. They are my nemesis.

Against my better judgement, I pulled the trigger on one of those cheap Amazon, probably built in China carbs just to get me going. It should be here Tuesday or Wednesday. The carb in this truck is beat up, missing parts and now not functioning. Time for something new. I will let you know how that goes.

But first, I need to try to attach the new Y pipe to the old tail pipe. That will be tomorrow's task.

 

Nice job.
It is not a hard job but you do need a 3rd hand for part of it.

For the rest of the exh. system are you going with the same year the manifolds came from or something different?
I had a new system on my 81 parts truck so I went with that. My truck came with nothing as the head pipe was cut and it went into a cat used as a muffler that dumped just after the cab.
Dave ----

 

I couldn't find anything on amazon that even looked like it would work, did check out the website on those washers. https://www.flangebolts.com/shop/washer-kits-24414 Kits are kind of pricey( just north of $100) for just one job, but if you had several to work on it would be worth it I think.