Hey guys, I'm going to look at a 2005 6.0 this saturday. Current owner is telling me that an injector is staying open and causing the truck to stall out after anywhere from 30 seconds to 30 minutes! He sent me a video of him starting it and it started no problem (30 degree day in Jersey) and it sounded good, didn't stall while the camera was rolling. I guess my question is do you guys think it could be anything other than the injector or would there be a deeper issue causing it to stall out?
I'll try and upload that video!

Thanks guys

PS: im not new to diesels...just 6oh's

 

It could be a few different issues, however I doubt the injector is staying open. If that was the case it would have hydrolocked long ago or he would have a see thru piston by now.

If the price is right, and you are not afraid to wrench which we know you are not, it could be a good deal.

Likely it's HPO or fuel related, but could be something with the FICM..........hard to say.

Can you drive it and get some data?

 

Depends on price to answer whether or not to buy it!

As for injector good question but I don't think that would keep it from running with only one going out. I could be wrong but doesn't make sense to me.

If you have a scan tool bring that to hook truck to and check it's vitals. Or bring along a trusty 6.0 owner who knows what to look for.

How many miles?

2005 is a good year I know mine has been flawless to the major engine problems and has 192k plus miles with no BP mods.

 

An injector staying open won't shut the truck down but instead it would smoke alot.
Like others said you need to go look at the truck with a scan tool or a programed ScangaugeII.
If it is coming up to temp and the IPR% increased and then it lost the minimum 500 psi @ the ICP and shut off it could be the STC fitting. This is only for instance.
You simply need more info to make a fair assessment.
Where in Jersey is this truck?

 

Thanks for the responses guys!
Current owner is asking 5k, single cab with utility body on it, 166k miles, never been bulletproofed and I believe he is the 3rd owner.
I have a scangaugeII that I'll bring along with me and hopefully my mechanic has the time to take a ride with me to check it out.

Thanks for the replies guys!

what are normal numbers?percentages for IPR etc..?

 

https://youtu.be/Vk7REtk7IiE

 

Send 87crewdually a private message asking for the picture of the torque pro shot he has. It shows all the readings of a good running 6.0 at full temp. Then, print that and take with you to compare the new prospect, come back with questions.

Scan Gauge needs the X-Gauges programmed to take advantage of those PIDs specific to a 6.0.

 

It's actually Forscan and a Bluetooth ELM327 adapter, Randy.
These are readings of my 2005 warmed up @ idle.
This will give you a baseline.
When you first get there to look at the truck turn the key on engine off and watch FICM Mpower volts. They should stay steady around 48. If you observe the volts drop below 46v then it will need a rebuild on the FICM more than likely.
Like i said above watch the IPR & ICP readings after i'ts running. Especially when or if it shuts off. If IPR goes up and ICP drops it may have a leak.
The reason I'm mentioning this is because these are buying advantages (to me atleast) and reason to negotiate a lower price on the sale. A FICM could be anywhere from $100 if you replace the board yourself or a few hundred sending it out. Then for example a bad STC fitting if you do it yourself would cost a day and maybe couple hundred bucks including removal and cleaning the turbo since it would be off anyways. A shop will charge substantially more because of labor.
Best of luck on your findings and decisions.

 

Thanks Pete.
I use Forscan to just do some troubleshooting, never set it up to monitor live data like you have. I'm also using a wired ELM327 device on the laptop with Forscan to give a faster response, but once set, the blue tooth is probably just as fast, I just never could get it to work with the blue tooth.

I do have Torque Pro set to do that using the ELM327 blue tooth device. And the gauges can be set to display several ways, sweep style like you have or just a digital.

But more importantly, the readings... they are spot on for a good running 6.0, why I mentioned to print and take on a road trip for comparisons.

 

Roll the dice and buy it if the configuration meets your needs. At a minimum you have something to tinker with, or you might have a great running truck.

 

If you have a stuck open injector, you'll hear the knock at start up if dropping fuel not cylinder. Not a good sound.
Here's the parameters I use on my Dashboss for some of that data.

 

OR you could spend $5000 on a brick and then $12k into the motor....

 

So I went and took a look at the truck saturday morning. The FICM was steady at 48volts and the truck started right up and ran good for about 15 minutes then it just smoked and died. Fuel bowl was empty and took a few cycles to get the truck to start back up again.

I'm going back thursday with my mechanic so he can hook up his computer to it and see exactly whats wrong if it is an injector like the current owner says.

 

Sounds like the fuel pump to me... the bowl should never be empty, never get below a 1/4 tank and low pressure fuel will kill injectors.

If that's the only issue, pumps cheap. Replace the filters with OEM filters, drain the water off it and see where it's at. It needs 45psi minimum, take a fuel pressure gauge!

 

Brining my diesel mechanic with me and he has the computer program to get all the readings so I should be good. If it is something easy to fix he will let me know and hopefully I can use the info for some negotiating!! haha