Lettuce disgust my front end issues.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
Likes: 145
From: San Diego, CA
I haven't used anything but (too many) OEM hubs but that looks about right. It says that it fits my truck too (2003).
As for studs, you need the coarse ones. The fine threads started in 2003 (unless you're interested in backfitting them for some reason). They are the same dimensions just with a slightly different pitch. It's the same hub assembly regardless of which studs you buy with it.
As for studs, you need the coarse ones. The fine threads started in 2003 (unless you're interested in backfitting them for some reason). They are the same dimensions just with a slightly different pitch. It's the same hub assembly regardless of which studs you buy with it.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 7,460
Likes: 85
From: Kent Station, WA
Just ordered through rock-auto. From what I read in other FTE threads that was the correct version even though it mentioned different threads on the wheel studs. Also ordered a lisle seal driver, Irwin vise, Moog Ball joints and spicer u-joints. Soon to order the axle knuckle seal and dust seal.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
Likes: 145
From: San Diego, CA
Motorcraft is Ford's replacement parts but not OEM (IIRC)
Dana/Spicer is the manufacturer of our front axle and associated parts (you can usually find them cheaper than the dealership)
Timken is aftermarket
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 7,460
Likes: 85
From: Kent Station, WA
Spent a bunch of time getting the top ball joint nut off, thing was practically welded on. Ended up busting out the 4 1/2" grinder with cut off wheel to slice a chunk out of the nut and get more PB inside the threads. Eventually it started to spin with a large hammer and punch. Then I had to purchase a socket for the lower joint. Tech article I found said 1 5/16" socket, good luck finding that in a 1/2" drive. A much better article said 33mm which is what used and can get most places. 1 5/16" and 33 mm are a direct comparison in size as well.
Still waiting on ball joints and wheel bearing. Seal driver is pretty massive as well. Next task will be the seal removal, ball joint removal and cleaning everything up.
A couple of pictures to update:
Still waiting on ball joints and wheel bearing. Seal driver is pretty massive as well. Next task will be the seal removal, ball joint removal and cleaning everything up.
A couple of pictures to update:
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
Likes: 145
From: San Diego, CA
IIRC the seal wasn't too hard to remove. Tapping it with small mallet or hammer and pulling with a pair of pliers did the trick for me. It's easy when you don't care about damaging the seal.
The hard part is driving the new seal on straight without damaging it. There's only so much surface area that you can make contact with and not damage the seal. That's what the seal driver is for. You've just got to make sure you drive it on straight and seat it. I would check after every few taps to make sure it wasn't getting crooked.
The hard part is driving the new seal on straight without damaging it. There's only so much surface area that you can make contact with and not damage the seal. That's what the seal driver is for. You've just got to make sure you drive it on straight and seat it. I would check after every few taps to make sure it wasn't getting crooked.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 7,460
Likes: 85
From: Kent Station, WA
Update time. While attempting to remove the Axle knuckle seal I became impatient with the hammer method and decided to try my grinder. Ended up cutting to far and cost an extra $112 for a new stub shaft from the local driveline shop. Fortunately they were nice enough to swap my u-joints in for a fee as well.
Knuckle with ball joints is back as well, just need to clean it up more and I can begin reinstallation of everything soon.
Knuckle with ball joints is back as well, just need to clean it up more and I can begin reinstallation of everything soon.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 7,460
Likes: 85
From: Kent Station, WA
Picked up one of these to clean the knuckle today. Will try it out after work. Also removed the ESOF fitting on the knuckle as I will be deleting it.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 7,460
Likes: 85
From: Kent Station, WA
Got a 1/8"NPT fitting for where the ESOF vent use to be. Installed the knuckle, axle shaft and both seals today as well. Studs and yellow o-ring were put in the new Timken unit bearing and loctited as well.
Attachment 289808
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 7,460
Likes: 85
From: Kent Station, WA
@r2millers
It was not vented for heat expansion. It is vented for the ESOF vacuum operated hubs. Mine did not work, so delete away. I re-did it as well with Teflon tape.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...iscussion.html
A few pictures completing the process. At one point I forgot the dust/heat shield and had to redo the hub, hence double pictures for this. Also showed the riffraff zerk in place of the ABS sensor during installation. Really helped as the wiring was out of the way and contaminates would not get inside. Couldn't get anymore pictures as my phone took a dump in the middle of the process. Lucky for insurance and warranty stuff.
Attachment 289785
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Attachment 289790
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Attachment 289792
It was not vented for heat expansion. It is vented for the ESOF vacuum operated hubs. Mine did not work, so delete away. I re-did it as well with Teflon tape.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...iscussion.html
A few pictures completing the process. At one point I forgot the dust/heat shield and had to redo the hub, hence double pictures for this. Also showed the riffraff zerk in place of the ABS sensor during installation. Really helped as the wiring was out of the way and contaminates would not get inside. Couldn't get anymore pictures as my phone took a dump in the middle of the process. Lucky for insurance and warranty stuff.
Attachment 289785
Attachment 289786
Attachment 289787
Attachment 289788
Attachment 289789
Attachment 289790
Attachment 289791
Attachment 289792
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 7,460
Likes: 85
From: Kent Station, WA
Finsihed the passenger side over the last couple days. Next up will be the outer tie rods and I think the front end will be good for a while.
Ball joints replaced and seals waiting for install.
Knuckle and axle back in.
Hub before cleaning
After cleaning
Completed
Ball joints replaced and seals waiting for install.
Knuckle and axle back in.
Hub before cleaning
After cleaning
Completed
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