If both of my outer dust seals weren't dangling down there by the u-joints, I would have considered doing just that. I certainly don't want to spend the money if I don't have to.

 

Ok. So I got her all done today, just waiting for the RTV to cure so I can put the diff oil in. Thought I would share some photos of the process for those who have not jumped into this procedure before. It really helps to have the seal installer, and I am fortunate enough to own one. It is stepped so that you get the seal on the axle PERFECTLY. It also doubles as the tool you use to push the seal into the knuckle and seat it at EXACTLY the right depth. I have read of others making seal drivers out of PVC, and I am all for engenuity and saving money. However, you might not get the depth just right on that seal, and that could have consequences down the road i.e.: hubs won't lock under vacuum and the inner dust seal wears out prematurely.

This is the seal driver used at the dealership.


Here is the seal seated on the axle. You can see there is a slight step up from the flange of the axle to the flat area of the seal. That is where your plastic washer with the grooves in it will sit. This step must be exact, or your washer won't be able to do it's job....this equals no 4x4 ESOF action. I put the axle in a big vise to hold it while I drive the seal on. T


Here is the seal driver on the shaft. There is a special tool that fits over the axle behind the seal driver (I forgot to take a picture of it), and that gets hit with a big hammer. This exerts EVEN pressure to the seal and pops it right into the knuckle. A little bit of bearing grease on the outside of that seal before inserting it into the knuckle makes this go REALLY quick.


Starting position.


Driven to EXACTLY the right depth when the tool bottoms out.


The result is a inner dust seal that sits snug up against the axle tube and is able to do it's job correctly without wearing out prematurely.


If anyone on the forums needs the tool and cannot rent one locally, I will send it to you (you pay the postage). It will fit in a small Priority Mail box, and it only costs like $6 for a 2-3 day delivery. Kinda like the traveling hub zerk thing that is going around. You would just go to USPS.com, buy the label, save it as a .pdf file and then email it to me. Then send it back when you are done. $12 and piece of mind that you did it exactly to the right depth.

 

Another great write up, I hope I don't need to use it anytime soon.

 

Thanks, John. Take the front tires off, take the brake rotor off, and then give that hub a spin. It should NOT spin freely. It should stop shortly after you let go of it. Also, listen closely while you spin it for any rolling noise (especially if it spins more than half a turn after you let go). Then, grab the lug studs and try to tilt the hub up and down side to side. This is all free and only takes about an hour for both sides to get a gauge on the health of your hub bearings. If you do it with the tire on, you will have a hard time telling whether it is the hub bearing or the ball joints. Very similar symptoms movement wise.

 

So, I just finished a lengthy test drive with the X and its new hubs/seals. Half the 1.5" play in the steering wheel is gone, and she tracks even straighter than she was. Also, she quit pulling to the right when stomping on the brake. It was subtle when pulling to the right, but now it is completely gone. Here is a photo of my fancy smancy painted-up front diff cover...



Was going to paint it red, but the silver looked more appealing and sane.

For posterity, the axle seal part numbers are National #710493 (outer axle seal that seats in the knuckle $52) and National #710413 (inner dust seal between shaft tube and u-joint $19)

 

I've got a question my first time replacing hubs on my truck like you I got lock out and e everything was moving around my question is which I think the pictures answered are there any bearings on the outter ends of the axle tube or seals. I know inby the pumpkin there is but I don't wanna pull all that off if I can just get new hubs. I thank you for your time.

 

That's not true, the wheel bearing is a "much lighter" feel.

 

This is great stuff man. I was wondering, do you have to pull the diff cover? My outer axle tube dust seal is loose and just rides around on the axle shaft. I was going to just cut it off since every other D60 I have owned had no outer seal stock.

Just pulled the diff cover last week, cleaned the diff and filled it up with 30 bucks worth of synthetic gear oil!

My hubs seals seem fine, and I do not have auto hubs. They are also tight. That axle tube dust seal seems to have been ineffective for quite some time too. Maybe I should just cut it all the way off and don't try and fix what isn't broke!

Very generous of you to offer up that tool.

 

Thanks but the homemade one works just fine.

 

For you maybe , How about we just Thank the fellow FTE brother for offering something he paid money for and is offering for others to use..Like this Brent, Thank you Mike for offering your tools, Reps sent..

 

I did say thanks, but I am all for the fastest and easiest way to do things and the correct info. If you can't see where the seal is supposed to stop you probably wouldn't be able to use the special Ford tool either.

 

The Ford tool stops the seal in the proper location unlike the homemade one..

 

No leave it on if just replacing the outer seals (not the inner cones).
Seal stock?

 

Really? It takes about 2 seconds to see how deep your seal is and you might have to look 3 times (6 seconds). Of course it was nice of him to pass it around and I would do the same thing but it just isn't needed, many people in here have used the homemade one. No shipping, no waiting etc.

 

You absolutely can cut that dangling dust seal off if you want. I had a Ford mech tell me that is usually what they do rather than replace them. He said the design is terrible, and everyone at his dealership is aware of that fact.

No need to pull diff cover unless your inner bearing/inner seal are suspect or you are changing the oil.

The tool is in PA right now with another member. If anyone needs it, let me know, and I will get it forwarded over to you.