When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've got a question my first time replacing hubs on my truck like you I got lock out and e everything was moving around my question is which I think the pictures answered are there any bearings on the outter ends of the axle tube or seals. I know inby the pumpkin there is but I don't wanna pull all that off if I can just get new hubs. I thank you for your time.
There are some guys that have been able to remove the axles without damaging the seal by prying against the u-joint and working their way around it until it comes out. Some grease smeared inside that cavity the seal sits in would go a long way to make this happen and keep your current seal intact.
No bearing anywhere out there on the axle except inside that hub assembly. You have the main bearing and then you have the needle bearing...both inside the hub.
That's not true, the wheel bearing is a "much lighter" feel.
You have extensive experience with mechanical stuff, Brent. Most of the people that read this thread and the info in it do not. I try to write to them when I post info, not to guys like you who know how to do this stuff. For the average guy, pulling the tire off will make it easier to check the bearing the way I described in that post.
You have extensive experience with mechanical stuff, Brent. Most of the people that read this thread and the info in it do not. I try to write to them when I post info, not to guys like you who know how to do this stuff. For the average guy, pulling the tire off will make it easier to check the bearing the way I described in that post.
Actually just shaking the entire wheel at 12 o'clock will reveal a bad wheel bearing and leaving the wheel on will give you more leverage but the ball joint might not move which is why they jack it up about 6", put a 2x4 under the wheel, and pry up while someone is watching for ball joint movement.
You absolutely can cut that dangling dust seal off if you want. I had a Ford mech tell me that is usually what they do rather than replace them. He said the design is terrible, and everyone at his dealership is aware of that fact.
No need to pull diff cover unless your inner bearing/inner seal are suspect or you are changing the oil.
The tool is in PA right now with another member. If anyone needs it, let me know, and I will get it forwarded over to you.
I think they should have mounted the seal in the housing itself and had a big sturdy lip on it since it gets a lot of movement and all it does it is keep the dirt etc out, but that's all woulda' shoulda' coulda' stuff.
You absolutely can cut that dangling dust seal off if you want. I had a Ford mech tell me that is usually what they do rather than replace them. He said the design is terrible, and everyone at his dealership is aware of that fact.
No need to pull diff cover unless your inner bearing/inner seal are suspect or you are changing the oil.
The tool is in PA right now with another member. If anyone needs it, let me know, and I will get it forwarded over to you.
Appreciate the response man. I kinda figured that seal was bogus, but I am very new to the super duty trucks. On my trail jeep, with a 79 ford HP 60, I put in ' seals it' dust/ mud seals that you pack with grease. Very happy with them and I'm sure they have something that will work with these trucks.
I know this is an older post.
I had do replace my left U-joint, replaced O-rings and hub kit. Then I started getting a rythmic sound. Like a bearing going out while in motion. Pulled it all back apart, replaced the inner sealed bearing in the hub or spindle bearing, thought I had it. NOPE, rythmic noise is back.
No noise until I hit a bump in the road, then it's pretty noisey. I stop the truck, no noise until I hit a bump.
I did notice the axle set tool. I drove mine in with a round wooden dowel and mammas 16oz. kitchen hammer (until it bottomed out).
Did I drive the axle in too far and meshing something in the front diff. ? The only thing I haven't replaced is the outer hub assembly. at $500, I'm not too excited about that.
2006 f-250 SD
The seal has to be the right depth in the hub. Too deep or too shallow will affect everything else in a kind of "chain effect". There is no measurement available that I know of unless you have a friend who will let you take his truck apart and measure the depth on his seal. The seal driver tool is the only quick, effective way to know it is perfect in the hub every time. Ironically, I have the tool for this job for sale down in the "for sale" section. Same tool works on the front hub seals in all the 05-13 4x4 trucks and the 05 Excursions.
Thanks nic mike, if you have the tool, would you please measure the depth of the part of the tool that enters the hub to the shoulder or hub face. I've had the left side apart twice now. I'm getting pretty good at it, so a 3peat should be a breeze.
10-4, Thanks Mike. As my post said, when I hit a bump in the road (at any speed) the rythmic sound starts. All the way to a complete stop. Once I start driving again, there is no noise until I hit a bump in the road. Is there any serviceable bearings in the T-case I should be thinking about? My auto hubs don't work, but I have only serviced the left hub with new new O-rings. I bought the truck last April with 161K. I'm a virgin to diesels. I do know my way around gassers.
If a bearing is done, it is done. I don't feel hitting a bump in the road would bring about a noise or evidence of failure in a bearing. It is going to make noise just rolling if it is bad. You asked about a bearing in the T-case. I think you mean differential?
Regardless, I think this is a brake issue, since when you STOP it resets the problem. You need to check runout on your rotors and really give your calipers the once over. Check for corrosion in the caliper pistons AND the slide pins on the back side of the rotors. Something might also be loose...
You just never know when not the original owner on one of these things...
Agreed! I have been thru the breaks. rotors, calipers, greased slides. It might be the driveshaft ceter bearing. Easy enough to replace, especially sense I have back up vehicles.
I hate throwing part at something and hoping one sticks, but that's kind of where I am and I'll throw the less expensive parts at it first.
Here is some info I learned, on the inner seal, it is to be set in place just beyond the vacuum port of the hub. From the factory it is 1.125 (1-1/8") from the mating face. Your dimension of 1-11/32" is at the bare boned limit of installing the snap ring. there is a "lip" just beyond the vacuun port as a guide for the depth.
Thanks for yalls help.
Right side disassembled and reinstalled. This afternoon I have to reset left side axle to proper depth. The axle bearing on the right side was toast.