I just replaced the valve cover gaskets on my bronco. I let it sit over night and started it in the morning and it was leaking worse than before! I don't want to rip into it again because I had to remove my a/c compressor, intake manifold and my EFI system but I know it has to be done. Does anyone know any tricks besides just a gasket and RTV so it will not leak again?

 

No tricks or secrets, per se, but a thought......

If you're faced with doing the job again, consider using something better than the standard cork or rubber gaskets. On my rebuild, I used Earl's Pressure Master Engine Seals valve cover seals (silicone and metal seal). They're not the cheapest at around $50.00 per pair through Summit, but if you consider the labor and PITA it is to change these (or at least the passenger side), a set may be money well spent. I've only had mine on since February (no leaks), but I've heard a lot of positive feedback from others.

 

I had the same problem. I bought some cheap stamped steel valve covers. Never could get them to seal. I ended up buying some aluminum ones, used rubber gaskets and never had another leak.

 

I hear that $$Ford$$ valve cover gaskets (current issue) are really good. A Ford tech told me they were metal and rubber and they would put a stop to the leaks permanently.

If yours leaks bad immediately after replacing, I'd guess that something isn't lined up or popped down on one cover. Even cheap new gaskets will seal for a while.

 

I have an 88 f-150 4x4 and I just replaced my valve cover gaskets today, nasty job! especially removing and replacing that intake.

So far no leaks. I used Felpro High Temp cork gaskets with the metal compression stops around the bolt holes. That way you can get a "Proper Torque" on the bolts (very important) without smashing the gasket...also I have found that using any type of form -a -gasket product "ALONG WITH" a regular gasket can cause leaks.
Better to use form a gasket in place of, than along with.

I hope this may help, I would dread doing it over

 

All great advice. Thanks. Currently my 302 is torn down to the open valley. Those lower intake gaskets were really bad. Today I did the valve cover gaskets, Victor high temp cork, but no metal core. I might regret it later but I stuck 'em to the covers with Ford gasket and trim adhesive (the old stuff with all the warning labels on it). Then I put a tiny bead of high temp RTV on the head sealing surfaces and torqued the covers down. At least if they don't hold up I'll know the upper manifold is easy...compared to the @#$^@ lower one!

 

Kam,

go ad order a set of motorsport Oring type valve cover gaskets....worth the $35 I payed....no leaks....just lay an ultra thin (seethrough) layer of copperseal on the valve cover (clean with acetone beforehand) and let dry....

then lightly oil the oring gaskets both sides and install then torque to specs...

I got no leaks doing this....then again I went with Motorsport finned alum valve covers.

 

Howdy,

just replaced the gaskets on my 400 last week. used cork gaskets, cleaned both surfaces really well, gasket cement both surfaces, torque to spec and no leaks at all. from what i gather it's really important not to overtighten the bolts as this will deform stock valve covers, gauranteed to cause leaks. i found it really hard to believe the torque specs but fought the urge to overtighten and voila, no leaks

see ya

Bob

 

That they are! Steel frame with a rubber seal trapped in it. They were stock equipment as far as I know at least as far back as 92. May have been earlier than that but I've only been that far in to a 92. They NEVER leak. At least I couldn't get them to and I've been able to screw up more than my fair share of one-car funerals.

 

I once replaced the valve cover gaskets on a truck. I thought I did a careful job and they seemed to fit properly. I drove it to go out to eat and smelled oil and saw smoke. I looked, and somehow the passenger side valve cover was cocked and at the rear it was about 1/4" inch off of the mating surface. Big ol leak! Odd, I thought I would have noticed that going on, nonetheless it felt right and I didn't notice it. Took it back off and redid it, problem solved.

 

hey it sounds like your gaskets were not lined up properly. Did you use a grease seal or anything to hold the gaskets in place when you put the covers on? It should seal even with crap gaskets for a while....also with crap gaskets , they shrink you need to tighten the valve cover bolts about every three days. I also have felpro high temp gaskets on my bronco. Those are much better than any i have bought.

 

Ya, I used the felpro gaskets and when I took off the valve covers I did not get them lined up properly. I had to buy two new ones and this time I just used the gasket and bought this red gasket spray stuff that held the gasket tight against everything and it worked! No leaks yet. That was not a fun job to do twice! If they start leaking again my truck is for sale! Thanks for the advise.

 

Here's a good one. I was using an inch pounds clicker torque wrench that a friend gave me a few years ago. A Shop-Craft #13298 micro torque wrench. It clicked when the first 2 valve cover bolts hit the right torque, and clicked no more. By the time I realized the P.O.S. had fallen apart inside, I had nicely over-torqued the entire right cover. For laughs I went to the Shop Craft tools website, Custom Accessories, Inc, to see what their warrantee policy is. There isn't one. Their site hasn't been updated since 1999 and the torque wrench area has been under construction since then! My valve cover doesn't look bent at the bolt areas so I'm gonna finish reassembly (with a quality tool). If it leaks I'll bite the bullet and re-do it. My advice: stay away from Shop-Craft tools if you happen to see them. They look OK but poorly made.