EGR Eliminator from RMJ - New member
New to this forum and just a quick hello
and thanks for a good data base !
Now as for the Post....
I know what it is and how the search function works ! I also own a VB site and know its next to worthless, to get that right out of the way... But thanks for the advice on using it that would come otherwise.
I have spent the night hunting around and gone threw about 8 pages of this forum section and have come up with this product from links from other posts.
RJM Injection Tech — EGR Eliminator
My truck is a 95 F250 with the 5.8 and 112K miles. It uses the Light Gray EGR valve position sensor.
I have codes:
327 - DPFE or EVP circuit below minimum voltage of 0.2 volts.
332 - EGR valve opening not detected.
543 - When the PCM commanded the fuel pump on, voltage was not detected on FPM.
Do you think this may take all the EGR issues off my to do list? Any one using it ?
I live in MA and emissions are a thing of the past for this old work horse. Ill happily take off any smog device it no longer needs.
As for code 543, any advice? I may have got it in error using the reader wrong. I did a fuel pressure test the other day under load and was seeing 35 PSI off throttle/load and 40 PSI under acceleration. All seams to be fine with the pumps but she is running like a turd.
Any and all help is appreciated!!!!
Now the fun part, sit and wait for posts ...
and thanks for a good data base ! Now as for the Post....
I know what it is and how the search function works ! I also own a VB site and know its next to worthless, to get that right out of the way... But thanks for the advice on using it that would come otherwise.
I have spent the night hunting around and gone threw about 8 pages of this forum section and have come up with this product from links from other posts.
RJM Injection Tech — EGR Eliminator
My truck is a 95 F250 with the 5.8 and 112K miles. It uses the Light Gray EGR valve position sensor.
I have codes:
327 - DPFE or EVP circuit below minimum voltage of 0.2 volts.
332 - EGR valve opening not detected.
543 - When the PCM commanded the fuel pump on, voltage was not detected on FPM.
Do you think this may take all the EGR issues off my to do list? Any one using it ?
I live in MA and emissions are a thing of the past for this old work horse. Ill happily take off any smog device it no longer needs.
As for code 543, any advice? I may have got it in error using the reader wrong. I did a fuel pressure test the other day under load and was seeing 35 PSI off throttle/load and 40 PSI under acceleration. All seams to be fine with the pumps but she is running like a turd.
Any and all help is appreciated!!!!
Now the fun part, sit and wait for posts ...
IIRC on an old truck like yours the CEL will come on for two reasons only - too high coolant temperature, or loss of oil pressure...
Actually, its efi so It HAD its share of codes but now just egr in stored memory,so no light.
Code 332 usually will not trigger a CEL, but 327 usually does. Code 543 can be caused by switching between tanks with the engine running, nuisance error if there are no other fuel related problems going on.
Invest in a cheap digital voltmeter (DVM). Then use it to measure the EVP signal with the EGR closed, then apply vacuum to the EGR while measuring the EVP signal output. Verify the signal increases and measures the correct values.
Use this for reference: Ford Fuel Injection » EGR Valve Position sensor (EVP)
Invest in a cheap digital voltmeter (DVM). Then use it to measure the EVP signal with the EGR closed, then apply vacuum to the EGR while measuring the EVP signal output. Verify the signal increases and measures the correct values.
Use this for reference: Ford Fuel Injection » EGR Valve Position sensor (EVP)
Code 332 usually will not trigger a CEL, but 327 usually does. Code 543 can be caused by switching between tanks with the engine running, nuisance error if there are no other fuel related problems going on.
Invest in a cheap digital voltmeter (DVM). Then use it to measure the EVP signal with the EGR closed, then apply vacuum to the EGR while measuring the EVP signal output. Verify the signal increases and measures the correct values.
Use this for reference: Ford Fuel Injection » EGR Valve Position sensor (EVP)
Invest in a cheap digital voltmeter (DVM). Then use it to measure the EVP signal with the EGR closed, then apply vacuum to the EGR while measuring the EVP signal output. Verify the signal increases and measures the correct values.
Use this for reference: Ford Fuel Injection » EGR Valve Position sensor (EVP)
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Code 332 triggers CEL on my 94.... Comes on after warmup, light throttle, just when a EGR would normally open. Shut pickup off, light is off again. Untell the EGR would normally open, than the light comes back on.
I cant find the issue. I read the codes as a last resort but I think I triggered all of them when I went and checked, cleaned, Dielectric-greased all the sensor wires. Its the ONLY time I have seen the light come on. I shut it down and they never came on again. I think it was just a bad connection but who knows. I figured 20 bucks for this could not hurt and keep the mill cleaner w/o the gasses flowing killing its MPG more.. I just like to ask b4 I do things! So much better then hearing sucker after the fact....
Anyways she still runs like a turd on power under load. I fear it needs valve work due to the new heads. I want to eliminate all small issues b4 I go there ... I'll take any help I can get.
She needs a lot of work but Im willing to give her the TLC she asks for. If not well the utility body and her brand new boss plow comes off and I see her last drive out of my yard to the scrap yard. With only 112K on her I think I can bring her back to life for a bit longer.
With that added info it is possible you do have a fuel delivery issue, I suggest you check fuel pressure at the rail, it should be 35-40psi at idle and it should jump to 42-45psi when the throttle is opened quickly or vacuum is removed from the regulator. If you don't have that much pressure at idle or it drops when tested you have a bad fuel pump or low voltage at the pump due to corroded connections.
As for your EGR issue, the eliminator will not clear your codes. I suggest you do the EGR test mentioned and examine the vacuum line between the EGR valve and control solenoid(EVR) which sits just in front and below the ignition coil on the same bracket, if this line is cracked or broken the valve will not operate.
As for your EGR issue, the eliminator will not clear your codes. I suggest you do the EGR test mentioned and examine the vacuum line between the EGR valve and control solenoid(EVR) which sits just in front and below the ignition coil on the same bracket, if this line is cracked or broken the valve will not operate.
With that added info it is possible you do have a fuel delivery issue, I suggest you check fuel pressure at the rail, it should be 35-40psi at idle and it should jump to 42-45psi when the throttle is opened quickly or vacuum is removed from the regulator. If you don't have that much pressure at idle or it drops when tested you have a bad fuel pump or low voltage at the pump due to corroded connections.
As for your EGR issue, the eliminator will not clear your codes. I suggest you do the EGR test mentioned and examine the vacuum line between the EGR valve and control solenoid(EVR) which sits just in front and below the ignition coil on the same bracket, if this line is cracked or broken the valve will not operate.
As for your EGR issue, the eliminator will not clear your codes. I suggest you do the EGR test mentioned and examine the vacuum line between the EGR valve and control solenoid(EVR) which sits just in front and below the ignition coil on the same bracket, if this line is cracked or broken the valve will not operate.
That's correct for a 302 or 351, but not for a 300. What motor does it have?
First, FTE doesn't use the OOTB search function. It's been modified quite a bit and actually works quite well. So use the search, as there is a ton of information in this forum about the EGR eliminator.
What you will find out about it is this. Don't use it. the EGR system, when working correctly, will give you better gas mileage. Not having it hooked up with either cause pinging due to high combustion chamber temps, or a 2-4 MPG mileage ding.
But from your description of the problem, it doesn't sound like the EGR is the problem. When you open the throttle up, the EGR closes and ceases to be a factor. It sounds like your problem lies elsewhere. I'm also inclined to think it's fuel related. Pull the vacuum line off the regulator. Is there gas in it? If so, you need a new regulator. What does the pressure do when you rev the engine? It should go up. Also, what does it do when you pull the line off the regulator? It should also go up.
First, FTE doesn't use the OOTB search function. It's been modified quite a bit and actually works quite well. So use the search, as there is a ton of information in this forum about the EGR eliminator.
What you will find out about it is this. Don't use it. the EGR system, when working correctly, will give you better gas mileage. Not having it hooked up with either cause pinging due to high combustion chamber temps, or a 2-4 MPG mileage ding.
But from your description of the problem, it doesn't sound like the EGR is the problem. When you open the throttle up, the EGR closes and ceases to be a factor. It sounds like your problem lies elsewhere. I'm also inclined to think it's fuel related. Pull the vacuum line off the regulator. Is there gas in it? If so, you need a new regulator. What does the pressure do when you rev the engine? It should go up. Also, what does it do when you pull the line off the regulator? It should also go up.
That's correct for a 302 or 351, but not for a 300. What motor does it have?
First, FTE doesn't use the OOTB search function. It's been modified quite a bit and actually works quite well. So use the search, as there is a ton of information in this forum about the EGR eliminator.
First, FTE doesn't use the OOTB search function. It's been modified quite a bit and actually works quite well. So use the search, as there is a ton of information in this forum about the EGR eliminator.
But from your description of the problem, it doesn't sound like the EGR is the problem. When you open the throttle up, the EGR closes and ceases to be a factor. It sounds like your problem lies elsewhere. I'm also inclined to think it's fuel related. Pull the vacuum line off the regulator. Is there gas in it? If so, you need a new regulator. What does the pressure do when you rev the engine? It should go up. Also, what does it do when you pull the line off the regulator? It should also go up.
Last edited by Bankrupter; Mar 25, 2011 at 07:57 PM. Reason: added info
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