2002 Ranger 2.3L 81,500 miles

Belt just started squawking this weekend...wondering from others' experience whether I should be prepared to replace the belt tensioner at the same time I replace the belt. As I only have one vehicle, it is a pain to get things apart and have no convenient way to get to the parts store....

Thanks...

 

Is the belt just worn, or does it have oil or coolant, or some other fluid on it, or is the belt tensioner rusted up or damaged, ect????

If the tensioner is ok & indicates the belt tension is within range on the molded in tension range marks on it's casting , but the belt has 80K+ miles on it & is just worn, I'd not replace the tensioner, just the belt.

Be sure to check the idler & tensioner pully bearing for play. If they have any side to side/wobble play, or sound rough, or are loose when spun, replace them.
A good pully will be snug when spun, but smooth, no noise or roughness, or vibrations, or side to side wobble/play.

I'm using Dayton Poly Cog belts on both my Ranger & Taurus & they are holding up better than the OEM belts did & are running a little quieter.

I've also heard good things said about the GoodYear Gator Back serp belts too.

If the belt has some kind of fluid on it, find & fix the leak source & clean All of the pullys before installing the new belt, so it won't get contaminated.

Route the serp belt over all of the walled pullys first & save the walless idler for last.
As you apply torque to the tensioner to gain some belt slack, slip the back of the serp belt onto the walless idler pully last.

Let us know how it goes.

 

I am not sure what part of the country you are in but I think in colder climates with more snow/cold precip the tensioner does not last as long. Mine stiffened up at 95,000 miles and I just replaced the the belt too since I had it off. Neither are terribly expensive so it is a question of whether you want to do it since you have the belt off anyway. Borrow the long flat tensioner tool from the parts store if they have one to loan.

 

I just checked the belt yesterday afternoon, and surprisingly it is in good condition. No checks/wear, but perhaps a bit glazed with age. no leaks depositing fluid anywhere. Since the times it has happened has been under acceleration after having driven through a puddle, I am thinking just age and rubber that doesn't have as much "bite" as it used to have in younger years.

So I am on to more pressing issues for the moment (tie rods and brakes) and will get back to this later.

Thanks to both of you for your input...I will keep it in mind when I return to this.

 

Can't disagree with you there-steering components and brakes are safety issues, a busted serp belt might leave you stranded and needing a tow, but safe. Some will throw a little talcum powder on them to try to help, but don't bother with the belt dressing stuff from the parts store.

 

While your working the brakes, don't forget the wheel bearings, as they're often one of the "forgotten scheduled maintenance items" & if the bearings haven't been adjusted on a regular basis, or removed greased, adjusted & had their grease seals replaced as listed in the scheduled maintenance call out, they too are likely in need of attention.

Motorcraft DOT-3 brake fluid is a very high qualty product & a good bang for the buck, so give it serious consideration as a service fluid.

While the front end is up, check the condition of the upper & lower ball joints too.
I watched my then new 99's 4X2 BJ dust seals dry rot in just 3 years & by 70K miles the upper & lower BJ's were shot, from moisture & dirt getting in through the dust seal dryrot cracks.
The lower right was dangerously worn by then!!!!

Since I had a 4X2 & the upper & lower "A" arms harware & bushings were still in good shape, I had the BJ's pressed out & new greasable TRW BJ's installed.

More thoughts for pondering, let us know how it goes.