POR 15 opinions?
Tuned
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 435
Likes: 1
I'm restoring my truck and I've used so much of it by now I should be part owner of por15! I've been extremely happy with it but my truck hasn't been exposed to the elements yet so I can't say anything about how it holds up. I know that it goes on extremely easy and is great to work with. I'm going over it with brush on duplicolor bedliner so this truck better NEVER fricken rust!
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 448
Likes: 31
From: Park City, Utah
I completely disagree with the above post.
My gripes are related to it's application. I tried brushing it with both bristle and foam brushes. Later I tried spraying it. POR-15 recommends two coats and it's not UV tolerant so you have to apply another coat of Chassis Coat.
Frames have lots and lots of holes in them. When you brush on POR-15, it tends to accumulate in the holes and even though I was very, very careful a few hours later I would see sags or small runs from some holes. Though the stuff hasn't cured you can't re-brush the runs because it changes the way it looks when it finally cures.
The stuff takes much longer than regular paint to set up. During this time anything can (and will) stick to it such as dust, flies, etc.
I take great pride in my work and things like runs, sags, dust and bugs in my paint are unacceptable. Yes, I know it's a frame....
But, If you are just doing a so-so project as opposed to a meticulous frame-off restoration, you may like the stuff.
My gripes are related to it's application. I tried brushing it with both bristle and foam brushes. Later I tried spraying it. POR-15 recommends two coats and it's not UV tolerant so you have to apply another coat of Chassis Coat.
Frames have lots and lots of holes in them. When you brush on POR-15, it tends to accumulate in the holes and even though I was very, very careful a few hours later I would see sags or small runs from some holes. Though the stuff hasn't cured you can't re-brush the runs because it changes the way it looks when it finally cures.
The stuff takes much longer than regular paint to set up. During this time anything can (and will) stick to it such as dust, flies, etc.
I take great pride in my work and things like runs, sags, dust and bugs in my paint are unacceptable. Yes, I know it's a frame....
But, If you are just doing a so-so project as opposed to a meticulous frame-off restoration, you may like the stuff.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 199
Likes: 0
From: South East Michigan
I'm going to give the Rust bullet a try. I havn't had a chance to spray the frame yet but I'm hoping soon. It have the UV built in but I wll probably coat that with a flat black or hammered paint.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 2
From: Montgomery, IL
If you are doing a complete frame off restoration for the purpose of building a show truck and want 100 point perfection then there are other paints better suited for this purpose, but since the original poster didn't say it was a show car I assumed he wants to drive the truck and I have not found anything that beats POR15. As Blackfoot says, it takes a little while to dry, but that is usually just a couple hours. It likes the humidity so if it is humid out it will dry faster but I have applied it in the winter and still had it dry in a couple hours.
No, it is not UV protected so a topcoat is required if you want that protection but on a frame, I never have worried about it.
But if you want durability and a long life span I would use POR15. I have not tried Rust Bullet.
Mark
No, it is not UV protected so a topcoat is required if you want that protection but on a frame, I never have worried about it.
But if you want durability and a long life span I would use POR15. I have not tried Rust Bullet.
Mark
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4,157
Likes: 3
No matter what you use, prep is key! I have used por15 and had good results. I would wash, scrape, whatever as much dirt and rust as you can. Use the metal prep to the letter. The more the merrier. I would use their metal prep even if you decided to go with Rust Bullet or some other brand.
Here is a comparison, although it's not the end all be all answer. Prep is so critical, again.
Google Image Result for http://www.drjing.com/Mini/Images/SideBySide/IMG_6321.JPG
Here is a comparison, although it's not the end all be all answer. Prep is so critical, again.
Google Image Result for http://www.drjing.com/Mini/Images/SideBySide/IMG_6321.JPG
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,305
Likes: 2
From: Montgomery, IL
Sounds like bad prep work. I did a frame about 15 years ago and when I saw the car again about 3 years ago the frame looked the same as when I first did it and this was on a daily driver in Northern Illinois.
Tuned
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 435
Likes: 1
Everyones got an opinion; but it would be nice to know all the details, not just a complaint. And no better than rustoleum! That's the dumbest statement I've heard. As for the flaking problem; did you paint over rust or a sandblasted surface? And as far as problems with runs; well ALL PAINTS WILL RUN IF YOU AREN'T CAREFULL! I brushed mine on with foam brushes, and about a half hour later went over it lightly to even out any runs and it turned out like a proffesionally sprayed job. I had some that got into my rear brake drum and actually siezed the pad to the drum. I had to beat on the drum like crazy with a big hammer to get it to come off, and went it did the pad was still attached! Tough stuff, I wonder if rustoleum would have done that.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 6,993
Likes: 15
From: Costa Mesa, CA
The good, hard hat industrial enamel they sell in spray cans at the HomoDepot might.
If you are going so far as to totally strip the frame - I don't see how this stuff is so much better than rustoleum. Then again I haven't personally used it.
I do use the stuff I mentioned above (rustoleum product) with no complaints. That stuff is strong/good. I do take my stuff down to bare metal though...
If you are going so far as to totally strip the frame - I don't see how this stuff is so much better than rustoleum. Then again I haven't personally used it.
I do use the stuff I mentioned above (rustoleum product) with no complaints. That stuff is strong/good. I do take my stuff down to bare metal though...