old truck rookie need advise and help
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2010
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old truck rookie need advise and help
I have a 1947 1.5 ton truck and want to turn it into a daily driver. This truck is almost completely original. So far I've converted the truck to 12 volt and updated the starter and this is where my problems start. 1. Ignition want to eliminate points. Can't get the darn thing started. Also can't figure out exactly what distrubitor is on this truck. 2. Need to upgrade brakes from drums. I think it might be safer to drive with disc? 3. Wheel options. Brake upgrades might change wheel options? After this I can actually enjoy driving this great truck. Hopefully. Any advise and comments are greatly appericated!
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 703
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From: SoCal - Redlands
47 Flatbed
You might try the running gear from a M400 Dodge motorhome. The rear frame rails are the same width as my 1940 1.5 ton and the lug pattern is the same. These rigs had 19.5 tubeless rims which is another plus. The front axle with disc brakes is wider than the stock ford so it might take some work to narrow it or maybe you could adapt the dodge spidles to the Ford straight axle?? The rear end I have does not have emergency brakes, the MH had a e brake on the trans so that is another issue.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 180
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When I drive my 43 around on country roads I feel pretty safe with it. But I have all new brakes, new shoes, wheel cylinders, lines, and rebuilt master cylinder. The brakes feel pretty good to me, of course the truck doesn't go over 35 mph without reving the hell out of the engine. I downshift when I go to slow down and use the brakes when I need to slow down real fast and they work pretty good.
But, I have seen kits to convert half tons to disc brakes but not big trucks. You might have to swap axles or frames or something to get something that will work.
But, I have seen kits to convert half tons to disc brakes but not big trucks. You might have to swap axles or frames or something to get something that will work.
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 30
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From: Sandpoint, Idaho
Hi. You mentioned "Got a question about a 1942-47 Ford Truck, send me a message, I will probably have an answer for you."
I have a 47 1.5 ton that I'm working on and was wondering if you might be able to tell me how to bleed the front brakes. I've got pedal if I pump them. I'm unsure if that bolt above the lines has anything to do with bleeding. Any help you could shed would be much appreciated.
Thanks for your time.
Larry Dehart
I have a 47 1.5 ton that I'm working on and was wondering if you might be able to tell me how to bleed the front brakes. I've got pedal if I pump them. I'm unsure if that bolt above the lines has anything to do with bleeding. Any help you could shed would be much appreciated.
Thanks for your time.
Larry Dehart
Last edited by Idaholar; Aug 30, 2010 at 02:25 PM. Reason: Grammer
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 180
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If the 'bolt' you are referring to is on the wheel cylinders.
Then yes that is used for bleeding. What we did is to pump up breaks till you have good pressure and then hold the pedal and have someone loosen the bleeder. This will let air out of the lines and some fluid to. Then you tighten up the bleeder and repeat. Do this till you stop getting air and just fluid from the bleeder.
At least that's what we did.
If the bolt you were asking about is somewhere else and not on the wheel cylinder just let me know where it's at.
Then yes that is used for bleeding. What we did is to pump up breaks till you have good pressure and then hold the pedal and have someone loosen the bleeder. This will let air out of the lines and some fluid to. Then you tighten up the bleeder and repeat. Do this till you stop getting air and just fluid from the bleeder.
At least that's what we did.
If the bolt you were asking about is somewhere else and not on the wheel cylinder just let me know where it's at.
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 30
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From: Sandpoint, Idaho
Thanks for the reply. I wasn't sure about that, right location but looks different from modern bleeder nipples. Just got the beast running after it rested for 14 years. Has a Chevy 350. I'll be around here on the boards more. Thanks again.
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Sandpoint, Idaho
OK, here I am again. I've searched the boards but haven't found a post that deals with brake adjustment for the 1.5 ton. There are a pair of nutted studs at the bottom of the backing plate. The studs have two flattened sides that look like a place to use a wrench to turn them after the nuts are loosened. And there are two spring backed nuts at about 10 and 2 on the backing plate. I would guess that the bottom studs are the adjusters. Right? If so, can you help me out with how to proceed with the adjustment?
Thanks for taking the time.
Larry Dehart.
Sandpoint, Idaho
Thanks for taking the time.
Larry Dehart.
Sandpoint, Idaho
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Senior User
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From: Marquette, MI.
Spring backed nuts are the adjusters, there is a cam on the inside next to the brake shoe. You turn the nuts with the wheel off the ground until You get a slight drag while rotating the wheel by hand, it's super simple and makes a world of difference how well the brakes work when adjusted properly.
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 30
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From: Sandpoint, Idaho
Thanks very much for your help. I'm enjoying working on something that makes so much sense. I open the hood on my newer pick-up and just close it again. Not much I can do to the new ones.
Thanks again.
Larry.
Thanks again.
Larry.
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Sandpoint, Idaho
Sorry to bother you again.
Maybe you could help me out with the front wheel dustcover. Mine has a hex sided appearance. Do you know if it's a screw off or just pry off like the cars?
I'd read a different post where the guy said that his adjuster nut just kept rotating without any results so I decided I better take a look inside the drum to see which way to turn the adjusting nuts.
Thanks in advance.
Larry
Maybe you could help me out with the front wheel dustcover. Mine has a hex sided appearance. Do you know if it's a screw off or just pry off like the cars?
I'd read a different post where the guy said that his adjuster nut just kept rotating without any results so I decided I better take a look inside the drum to see which way to turn the adjusting nuts.
Thanks in advance.
Larry
Spring backed nuts are the adjusters, there is a cam on the inside next to the brake shoe. You turn the nuts with the wheel off the ground until You get a slight drag while rotating the wheel by hand, it's super simple and makes a world of difference how well the brakes work when adjusted properly.
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 82
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From: New Orleans
I know this thread is aging, but I have a 31 AA chassis that I would like to convert to hydraulic brakes.
I found a 47 1 ton chassis for sale and its looking like it might be a good source for backing plates and parts.
Can anyone provide me with some specs for their brakes IE: width of their backing plates/center opening and lug bolt patterns.
It would be much appreciated.
thanks
Scott
I found a 47 1 ton chassis for sale and its looking like it might be a good source for backing plates and parts.
Can anyone provide me with some specs for their brakes IE: width of their backing plates/center opening and lug bolt patterns.
It would be much appreciated.
thanks
Scott
Marmon-Herrington Man
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,986
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From: Central Illinois
Hopefully others will speak up too. My only help is to confirm for you that the wheel and hub bolt pattern on your '31 AA is the same as the pattern on the '47 tonner. Each used a 5 lug x 6 7/8" bolt circle. Both will also have 3/4" x 16 tpi studs and nuts. The tonner I believe will have all right hand thread while yours should have both right and left hand. Somebody please check me on this last point if I'm mistaken about the tonner's studs. Stu
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 82
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From: New Orleans
Thanks stu,
That's what I was thinking and hoping was correct.
Now I think all I need to know is if they had 14 inch backing plates, if they do I don't see why not to give it a go.
I'm new at all this conversion stuff, but the only other thing that I think could get in my way is the center hub size (if that's even the correct term for what I'm thinking)
thanks again
Scott
That's what I was thinking and hoping was correct.
Now I think all I need to know is if they had 14 inch backing plates, if they do I don't see why not to give it a go.
I'm new at all this conversion stuff, but the only other thing that I think could get in my way is the center hub size (if that's even the correct term for what I'm thinking)
thanks again
Scott