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I have a '93 F150 w/302 EFI. I am never certain when I'm in 4X4?! The truck has auto hubs, and when I pull the transfer case shifter to "4 high", the 4X4 light goes on but I don't have the traction I think I should have. This model does not have a rocker switch on the dash. So how do you and when is it in 4X4? Can you engage "on the fly"? I had a brother-in-law tell me something about having to stop, engage shifter, back up 6 feet, hold my left thumb out the right window... HELP!! It's hunting season & I need traction!
one sure way to know if you're actually in 4x4 is find a cul-de-sac street and engage everything and turn as sharp as you can left or right doesn't matter and give it alittle gas if the front feels like it is hopping alittle you are in 4x4 and everything is working properly but yes you do have to back up alittle that is how Ford has the transfer case set-up. As for shift on the fly I personally have never trusted that
never had a problem with my 4x4. I just get out and lock in the hubs then get in and pull back on the shifter and im in 4hi. Never a hesitaion. I guess I didn't know about Ford saying you have to back up. I thought that was just with the really old vehicles.
Just get on a gravel road or somewere were there isn't the best of traction, put it in 4hi and let it rip. Shouldn't be to hard to tell.
What I did to dertermine if the 4x4 was working on my Bronco, was to put a strip of white tape on the front driveshaft and both front u-joints. Then i put the truck in 4x4, backed up a few feet, and then checked to see if the parts with the tape on them had rotated. This is how i found out that one of my hubs was blown--the right front u-joint didn't move
Jon
1995 Bronco- Eddie Bauer, 351W, E40D, too much to list....
1989 F-150- XL, 4x4, 302, M50D, much more to come...
With auto hubs, you must back up around fifteen feet. This is done to disengage the locking mechanism. If you had Manual hubs, you just turn 'em. I have a '96 and just replaced my worn out, peice of @#$! auto hubs with Superwinch manual hubs. I could never count on them. My advice, to save yourself a TON of grief, and getting stuck, is to go get a new set of manual hubs asap. They run about $60-$90 bucks, and then you have to buy two special tools to install them. Total about $150-$200 dollars depending on brands.- A lot better than a few tow truck bills. Another way to check your system, which is not the easiest way, is to put the t-case in four-wheel, then jack up the front end and crawl under your truck and turn the front driveshaft. The wheels should turn when you turn the driveshaft. If the wheels don't turn, you aint got four-wheel.
Hoss--what kind of special tools would i have to buy to convert the auto's on my Bronco to manuals? I'm going to go with Warn Premiums though. They have a life time warranty...
Jon
1995 Bronco- Eddie Bauer, 351W, E40D (spoiled rotten)
1989 F-150- XL, 4x4, 302, M50D (the red-headed stepchild)
and the snap ring tools..~$5.00 at Wal Mart... (or use small flat screwdrivers..some use nails)
http://personal.rdu.bellsouth.net/rdu/t/g/tgaunce/bronco/warn_manuals/tools1.jpg
also, look here at an ad type comparison of hubs..
http://www.sabreforce.com/tech21401.htm
Those photos help, how in the hell do you do that? Actually, there's one more not pictured there. It's another socket-type adapter that fits over the inner nut, which holds the outer bearing on, if you follow. If you go to your local tool store, NOT automotive store (usually your parts shop won't have the special tools you need), just tell them you need a socket for Ford automatic hubs. It's kind of hard to explain, but it should say what it's for on the package. Same goes for the 4-prong socket shown above. Also, when you buy the picks, I reccommend buying the kind without handles. Somtimes the handles can twist on the rod. That can cause a headache. Warn hubs are good, but I couldn't wait for them, plus, the superwinch premiums were the same price as the warn standards with the plastic centers.
I own a 1993 4x4 with the 351w mine did the exact same thing. You better make up your mind because if you leave your manual hubs in for too long then they will start to break up and they will cause serious axle problems (it happened to my buddy). It did not cost more than $80 and 2 hours to put mine in. I'm sporting the Warn hubs. You can get them at any NAPA for like $75 and the spanner socket (you have to have, there is a picture of it on this post, the fat socket looking thingy) for $5. If you have any questions e-mail me at RedneckCadet@netscape.net. If i don't have the answer my buddies will. Good luck to ya.
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 07-Nov-01 AT 03:28 AM (EST)[/font][p]I have a 92 Flareside 4x4 with the auto hubs still in and working fine(clean+lube yearly), if you engage in low traction conditions, you shouldn't have any trouble telling if they engage. Mine make a solid clunk that you feel when they lock up as the rear tires spin. I prefer manual hubs myself though, while I can tell if the autos are engaging, I can't tell if they are disengaging after backing up(with my left thumb out the right window, or was it right thumb.....?), but until these go bad I can't see changing them yet. If I had to guess I'd say it's either bad hubs or you DON"T have as much traction as you should(as in TIRES).Also, if you do change hubs, if you live where there are Murray's auto stores, fi you buy the parts there they 'sell' you used special purpose tools then refund the money when you bring them back as long as they are in good condition.
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