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1986 302 bronco wont start without ether

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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 06:14 AM
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1986 302 bronco wont start without ether

Hey guys I`m new to the forum and have been searching the posts but can`t find an answer. I bought a 1986 bronco yesterday that I`ve been watching on craigslist for a few weeks. Decided to give it a try. 302 fi. Brand new set of 31/1050/15 bridgestones. Also cold ac. No knocks after starting but it runs a little rough. I can see where he put new plugs wires etc.Fuel filter just replaced.new brakes.Only 900.00 so i can afford to spend a little I just don`t want to spend it in the wrong places. Will not start without ether.After its warm its fine,cranks right up.The guy I bought it from replaced the fuel pump in the frame rail trying to solve no start issue but it didn`t fix it. He says everyone who has looked at the truck says its the pump in the tank.Before I go replacing that one is there anything else I should consider? I`m wondering if the fuel injection pump ? could be bad. He drove it from Virginia to South Carolina a few months ago like it is. Runs really rich. After a few minutes black smoke from tailpipe. The rear pump in the tank runs constantly. As soon as you turn on the switch it starts buzzing. I dont think this is normal. Any and all help will be much appreciated.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 06:14 AM
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ok went out this morning after a suggestion about fuel pump relay. unplugged the relay truck runs great til it runs out of gas. replaced with another used relay i found in the console and it starts running rich again.rear pump runs constantly. so it is definitely somewhere in the fuel delivery. any ideas where to look next?
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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 06:15 AM
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going to buy new relay next and try that.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 11:16 PM
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1986 302 bronco wont start without ether

Those relays that are used on the fuel system are bad about welding the contacts together and keeping the pump running during the start cycle. Put a new relay in,pull the gas filler cap off ,put your ear down close to the filler ,have some one turn the key to on but not start the engine, the pump should come on for a few seconds and then shut off. If it does not shut off then you have a problem with the computer as it is the only thing that controls the relay.
Hope this helps.Good Luck
Kenny
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Old Aug 6, 2008 | 11:28 PM
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To me it sounds like your coolant temp sensor is stuck in the rich position or you have a leaky injector. Even if your fuel pump ran all the time it still would not cause a rich run becouse that whats the regulator is for. Also check your map sensor it could also cause a rich run.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 02:33 AM
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thanks I will check all these asap. i will post what fixed it when i do get it fixed. hate reading post but they run out because whomever was posting didnt reply as to what the problem actually was. thanks again.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 05:04 AM
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Welcome to FTE.

Have you checked the fuel pressure regulator? Pull the vacuum hose off the top and see if fuel is in the hose. If so replace the FPR. Have you pulled the codes? See Ford Fuel Injection for good info.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 05:19 AM
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fuel pressure regulator is new. the guy i bought the truck from must have replaced it because its still shiny and i have an old one in my box of parts he gave me. just went outside and pulled hose no fuel. will pull codes tomorrow. thanks
 
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 05:25 AM
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More thoughts on rich. Although none threw a code I tested and replaced several things that were a little off and each made it run a little better. Again see Ford Fuel Injection . Put ACT and ECT in the oven with a thermometer and read the resistance at different temps and compare to chart. When warmed up and running disconnect the IAC to see if it runs bad. If so, it is working. Mine was stuck closed. My TPS tested good with a digital meter, analog is better I hear, replaced it a few weeks later. I am not suggesting you throw four things at it without testing just each of mine was an improvement. Replace one at a time with Motorcraft and drive it.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 03:56 PM
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I have seen Port injected vehicles run rich when there is a low fuel pressure. I know it sounds strange but when there is lower pressure sometimes the injectors won't close all the wall and they will dribble gas.
It is possible to has perfectly fine duel pressure at a idle and then it drop as rpm increases if it hade a line restriction (or a plugged filter) yes I'd change the filter again, after all It is the cheapest part in the fuel system.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 04:52 PM
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Spring for a mechanical fuel gauge, and get the adapter that replaces the schrader valve. Hook it up and see what you get at switch on, then engine running, then at throttle. I had a problem with my 86 EFI. It would lose fuel pressure at half throttle. Turned out to be the tiny reservior (it has a filter in it that was clogged) on the frame rail. It is a bit behind the frame mounted fuel pump. It was a pain to figure out, but a joy to fix. The 85/86 EFI are the only ones with this reservior if memory serves.
And it's okay that the tank pump runs constantly. It has a return line back to the tank at the reservior. The tank pump is a low pressure one. It feeds the reservior that the high pressure frame rail pump uses. So, the 85/86 EFI is a little different fuel system that the later ones.


Bob
 
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 10:55 PM
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Just a thought.

If the problem still persist after all of the mentioned above. the constantly running pump could be caused by a short in wiring or the bjb causing constant power. a smashed or chewed wire also. running the intank pump constantly will cause premature failure to, so your going to need to pull it out eventually.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2008 | 11:01 PM
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Jason,

The 86 is a unique bird. The low volume in-tank pump does run constanstly, by design. It provides a constant low pressure stream to the reservior that is just in front of the high pressure rail pump.

Bob
 
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Old Aug 29, 2008 | 12:16 PM
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i would also double check the plug wires and the firing order. its crazy how easy it is to not have that correct. I would also pull the plugs and have a look. make sure the o2 sensor is plugged in at the Y pipe. Definatly pull codes , this will help. also check the timing, it should be 10*btdc with spout connector removed.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 07:07 AM
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it was a bad computer thanks all
 
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