Was thinking of getting the Brite Box and Bulbzilla headlamp upgrade kit for our 05' Ex. Stock lighting is ok, but could use somemore with all the deer we have up here in the northwest sub's of Chicago. Sounds like a good idea, but not sure if the stock wiring is going to beable to handle the extra juice. Don't want to start melting things!! Any idea's if it will be ok?
i know if you pull back you get both low and bright beams, but after awhile that gets old. thanks for any input.

 

I have it on the motorhome, been running it for about two years works GREAT.

And more light on the 2-lane roads at night is good stuff!!

 

any links?

 

The ad I found it in was in my performance products magazine. Or performanceproducts.com

 

I have never done this personally but I know others who have and have had issues with stock wiring (not on an Ex).

I wouldn't do this without at least useing an aftermarket wiring harness which is designed for the extra current. Plus you would get much better light with the aftermarket harness anyway.

Michael

 

I would be worried about the bulb housings getting to hot. A brite box on something like a chevy when the lowbeams are in a different housing is one thing, but with the dual filament bulbs, I'd be kind of hesitant.

But if you do, I would deff use an aftermarket harness.

Just my $.02

 

I have the brite box and have had great results and NO problems. It does make a huge difference. There is hardly any difference in the heat produced by one filiment or two.


Thanks, Bryan

 

Do you just have the brite box or the low beam bulb ugrade kit also? how is the install?

 

I looked brite box up on the internet. how hard would these be to wire up? Also how hard is it to wire up a aftermarket factory harness?

 

I have the low beam kit... the install was super easy.... Just plug and play pretty much. The instructions are included.

Bryan

 

I am curious how you know this? It seem contrary to my expectations.

When I purchased a upgraded factory harness for another vehicle of mine I thought I remember seeing a harness that would allow this (without the use of this "bright box"). The aftermarket harnesses are really easy to install as a general rule, difficulty will vary from application to application.

Michael

 

I tested the heat with a IR therm... I did this by driving around for 30 minutes on our property with the lows on and then tested the housing temperature. Then I repeated the test with the highs on (with the brite box) and checked the same part of the housing (the area within 1 inch of the bulb) and it was within about 9 degrees. I will admit, this might not be the most valid way to test it but I think it worked. Since I have been running the piaa bulbs for two years with the brite box and have not had any visible housing changes / discoloration and no visible wiring damage, that helps me validate it also.


Bryan

 

Greetings,

I added the Brite Box with "Fog Light Control" about a month ago to my '05 EX 4x4 6.0 EB.

I works Great! It's a Great Idea and it's worth $154.00. Make sure to get the newish "with Fog Light Control" version and remember that '05 EX Bulbs are 9008 Bulbs and different than prior bulbs... (9007 Bulbs??)

FYI, their website SUCKS totally amateur. They're either in the middle of a reconstruction or recent buy-out by another company IMHO.

In reality however, it's not much more than relays for the lights with a override/bypass for the dip switches. FYI, these are the same type of relays used whenever anyone adds high power driving lights or headlamp upgrades. (For the Brite Box, the original light "plug" is plugged into the relay/"box" and Bulb is now connected to battery through the "box". When light is turned on, the orig plug only activates relay/"box" and the bulb is fed directly to the battery from new Brite Box wires so no additional load on the orig "plug" and wires. Anyone who's ever done off-road lights will go "Oh that's what this basically is!"

"I wish I thought of it!"

Cheers,

Scott

PS "With Fog Light Control" just means they also allow you to add the fog lights into the relays. So, when you turn on "High Beam" the Low Beam, High Beam and Fog Lights all turn on at the same time. You can still switch the fog lights "on" to the low beams like normal, but on High Beam EVERYTHING TURNS ON.

PPS. Regarding power drain, I converted my motorcycle's headlights from Halogen bulbs to dual HID Bulbs and "modified" (one drop of solder) the High and Low Beam switch to run BOTH on High Beam. Cost $440 for two bulbs full conversion kit (ballasts, igniter boxes, relays, wiring, fuses etc etc etc) for a motorcycle. Turns out that HID lamps only use 40% energy PER BULB of 55/60 watt stock Halogen PER BULB.

PPPS The HID conversion is SO BRIGHT (like 4x brighter) that I'd worry about using them on an EX as the headlights. They also need to "warm-up" for 5-10 seconds so you can't "Flash to Pass" with your turn signal. Better as add-on off road lights IMHO.