I Know This Question Has Probably Been Asked A 100 Times, But I Need To Know What Year I Need To Take Parts To Convert My 66 F-100 To Power Steering. I Thought There Was An Article On How To Convert To Powersteering, But I Didnt See It. Thanks

 

First and foremost welcome to FTE. Did find an article on subject but unfortunately, it's in another Ford truck forum (67-72), if you run google search under '67-72 Ford pick up resource' you should come across the article. Also, if run a search in this forum, 61-66, should come up with lots of info. There are so many variations, from the Bendix P.S. box to the Saginaw, or Ford P.S box. The Bendix box is the same length as the original manual box so don't have to make any modification to the steering column. The Bendix box is also wider so if considering headers they may present a problem. The Saginaw, or Ford P.S. box is longer, thus, requires either shortening the steering column, or going with a later model column, which is shorter. Believe Power Steering setups are interchangeable thru 79. Couple members have mentioned installing tilt column. Made the upgrade on my 65 which has the T18 4 speed so the column was not an issue, slight modification at the firewall. It's lot easier if able to find donor truck with power steering from same engine family then take everything related, pulleys, brackets, etc. You are going to need the pulleys with the additional groove(s), which includes the fan pulley, believe the alternator pulley, and most importantly, the 2-3 groove harmonic balance. If don't find set up on one donor then likely end up with extra parts, speaking from experience. Will also need the driver's side engine perch from truck with power steering, it's off set slightly for the power steering box. If decide to go with later model column, can either use spacers between bracket on column that mounts on bottom side of dash, or swap brackets and eliminate need for spacers, if recall, only 3-4 tack welds holding them on. Anyhow, this is a couple of many options one can go with, other members will likely be adding additional info, if any questions don't hesitate to post. Good luck!!

dave

 

I have a 65 F-100 and I installed all the parts from a 72 F-250 donor truck. It had a 390 and I have a 360 in my pickup so the pulleys and mounting bracket for the power steering pump bolted right up. I used the standard Ford power steering gearbox and used the steering column out of the 72. As Dave said the mounting bracket for the steering column is on the opposite side as the one in the 65/66 so I used spacers with longer bolts to mount it. I also swapped in the C-6 auto from the 72 so the steering column worked great for the shift linkage. Everything bolted in great with no modification, although it is a very tight fit between my headers and the steering box.

I bought the 72 F-250 for 400 dollars from a guy from work and in my mind I got more than my moneys worth in the parts I installed on my 65. Buying the donor truck is the best way to go. I hope this helps, Jeff

 

I note a lot of guys are saying they have used the steering box from the F250 for this upgrade. Is that the only or best one to use, or will a box from an F100, 150, or even a Custom work just as well?

 

The steering gears are pretty much interchangable as long as they are the same manufacturer. Like a signaw for a signaw or a bendix for a bendix.

 

FWIW- i used a stearing column frfom a 76 F-150. direct boltin. will need to make two spacers for the area where it attaches to the dash. about 3/8 in long. I also put the I-beams, break booster and peddle assemby from the same truck in my 66. direct boltin. have disc brakes to. .time saver, if the column is still in the donor mark the wires coming out of the stearing column will save you a bunch of time hooking it up, Dutch

 

Thanks airharley and flyn. I was hoping to keep my existing column if possible and modify the shaft if I need to, but thanks for the tip if I do wind up changing it.

 

By the way Flyn, did you have to swap I-beams for fit when you did the P/S and brakes, or you just do it because the 76's were in better shape?

 

actually i did it because it was easier than dismantling the ones on the 66 and then dis mantling the 76. One I-beam bolt,two spring bolts,and a breakhose.if you've never done king pins it's not pretty. i did the complete swap in 4 hours. that includes replacing the I-beam bushings. the wife helped me get the I-beams in. pretty tough to do by yourself in that they get a bit heavy and four hands makes it easier. no other reason but i did not want to mess with the king pins.then again if the king pins are bad on the donor you'll have to take it apart anyway so then it wont make any difference.my donor truck only had about 10,000 miles on the new king pins.dutch

 

I think I see now -- you left the knuckle on the I-beam from the 76 ansd then just mounted the 76 rotor and caliper to it?

 

I guess I dont understand what you meant. it came off the donor as a whole unit; calipers ,rotor, attached. put the whole thing under my 66 as one unit, that's prolly why it was so heavy. Dutch

 

Yes, that's what I meant. Guess I didn't put it very clearly. I have a line on a donor truck and may go that route. Thanks a lot.

 

I've found a donor truck, a 72 Custom, and am planning to swap the whole front end on my 65, as Dutch did, as it will also mean front disc brakes and if I can get it to work I'll swap master cylinders and go for p/b as well. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

good to hear you found a donor. you will need to do the master cylider replace ment at the same time as the one in your truck will not do the job. i dont know if the donor has automatic or shift. if it's the same as youre you canalso change out the master cylider and the brake and clutch assemby under the dash. wont need to do any alterations. by doing this you wont have to try and get the brake rod from the peddle to the booster to be the right size. i've heard some nasty stories about that.anyway if you do the whole unit then you wont have to worry about that. then you will have to make two 3/8 inch spacers to connect the stearing column to the underside of the dash as there is a litle bit of design change there. if you decide to go that route you'l notice right away what i'm talking about. pages more to say. but gonna stop there. good luck. Dutch

 

Thanks Dutch. My 65 is 3-spd column shift and the donor is an automatic floor shift. So from what you're saying it sounds like I'll have some trouble with the pedal-to-booster rod. I wonder if I'd be any further ahead if I took the whole assembly from the donor -- master cylinder, booster, rod and pedal.
Rick.