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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 10:05 AM
  #16  
Flyn66dtmn's Avatar
Flyn66dtmn
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Joined: May 2005
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From: Montana
may not work as the donor doesn't have the clutch petal you need for yours. you can still put the master cylidar and booster in your's . it'll bolt right up. just check your rod from your brake to the rod from the donor to amke sure it;s the right length to operate the booster. compatability is out of my league as i did the whole swape.i'm sure there are threads in the forum that explain how to. i do know that there is a difference in length and you brakes may not work when you get it together. just something to check before you set it together to save you the headache of redoing it.. Dutch
 
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 11:46 AM
  #17  
jowilker's Avatar
jowilker
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Joined: Jun 1999
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From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Club FTE Silver Member

Gents, Can I jump in here?

Brake and clutch pedals do not have to be swapped. My 66, originally had 3 spd manual, still has the original brake pedal in place and the clutch pedal removed. I also converted to C6 auto when I did all of my work and it simplified things.

Finding a pickup with manual column shift and a Ford (saganaw) power gear is harder to come by, but can be. I knew where 3 were about 5 years ago but haven't kept up since. It was only later (in the 80s) when manual ODs started making a come back with power steering and those columns are not bolt up with our Slicks.

Take your time, find your parts and you will be happier in the long run.

John
 
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 08:22 AM
  #18  
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JoeHarbourJets
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Joined: Sep 2007
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Thanks for the input John. I also have a line on a full power steering system already removed from an early 70's F100 that looks like a fairly straightforward swap for my manual, and am beginning to think I might just go with that and leave the manual brakes. It's really the steering that's the issue for me more than the brakes. Also, my front end, kingpins, etc. are in good shape and as I mentioned before I would only install the spindles and power discs by swapping the whole front end (I-beams and all) as suggested by Dutch. I don't want to get into fighting with old kingpins (been there and done that) and as long as my front end is in good shape I might just retain all the other original and just swap the steering.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 09:12 AM
  #19  
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daveengelson
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From: Boulder Creek, Ca
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With the p/b upgrade on 65 used 1/2" alum square stock as spacers between the booster 'offset' bracket and the firewall. Cut the square stock little longer than required for the upper and lower bolt hole for each side on the booster bracket then installed slightly longer bolts. Used alum square stock because easier for cutting and drilling. Just thought would throw in another option. Used proportion valve and bracket from donor. Rather than rebuild donor master cylinder found only cost $45 at local Napa Parts store for new and installed on donor booster.

For p/s upgrade, as noted, used front suspension from donor including I beams, spindles, pitman arm, etc. Fortuately, have T18 floor shift so except for minor refab at firewall, column was not an issue. One of my 65 has the 390 and presenting issue was finding a 2 groove harmonic balance pulley. Anyhow, had an urge to chime in.

dave
 
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