Well, I have all the wires ran and hooked up in the front. I now have all the engine wires hooked up as well. I am now starting on the inside of the truck. I have been trying to keep myself very busy inbetween making final arrangements for my dad. It helps to keep busy. I'm a thinker, times like this I wish I wasn't. So on with the question:

Steward68 quote
"The red solenoid wire powers the whole EZ21 and does go to the battery side post of your solenoid. Don't forget to run it from the fusebox through the ammeter and THEN out the firewall (if you're configured that way). Also put that fusible link in the package on the solenoid end to get it all protected from frying."

So here is how my take it should be done: I will run it up from the fuse panel to the ammeter, out the other side of ammeter to a fusible link, then to the battery side of selonoid. is this the correct thinking?

Next Question can I put a 40 amp circuit breaker inplace of the fusible link?

Ok what else on the inside of truck may throw me for a curve.

I will check back here in about a 1/2 an hours to see what you all have to say.

The people on FTE are certainly the best! Thank you all.

 

Kevin--I am planning to visit tomorrow,and will call you 10-11 and confirm. I will bring your parts,and wANT TO SAY---KEEP BUSY!!It will be better,later and hope your wiring is as good as your personality..You make sure to have a GOOD GROUND or you will be flickering down the road,dude!!!

 

If it comes with a fuseable link then I would use it. If you really want to use a circuit breaker instead I'd run a 50 amp one. You generator puts out 35 or 40 amps so if you ever add more accessories or turn every single thing on in the truck you may continually trip the breaker. Normally you run a fuse 10% bigger than the load required.

 

Kevin see our sympathies in the other wiring topic.
A fuse will not work well as a substitute for a fusable link. the link is a "slow blow" device that can absorb short current spikes yet still protect from a continuous short. A standard fuse would be blowing every time you started the engine, the generator kicked in or was driven to a high RPM (or just charged the battery depending on it's output) I don't remember what output generators are in, but it's not unusual to find alternators in the 150 A range.
For the same reason you want to install the fusable link in an open area where it can get cooling air.

 

Some one posted in the other thread to use a fusible link X numbers smaller than the supply wire is. This wire I think is 12 guage what size fusible link should I use? I will be right back with some more questions. I am downloading some pic now. I replace all the guage bulbs with 12 volt ones. The guages themselve I need to put a voltage reducer like a runtz I believe. Where can I get one of these. I will edit this post in a few minutes to put pictures in and more questions.

Here is the pic & question: There is a B on the circuit breaker. The power comes in from the battery side of solenoid through the ammeter to the b post which is connected by a metal strap to other circuit breaker, then goes from the second circuit breaker to power the ez wire 21 circuit mini panel.



Then there is the A terminal with three wires coming off of it. Where do these go. Are these the wires that go to the guages or from the sending units. If they are from oil sending, fuel sending, and temp sending units, what goes on the terminals on the back of each guage?

Next question on the back of the three guages not including the ammeter there are metal tabs connecting them together. I think this is the ground, is that correct. I will be working on this later tonight, my family is going to dinner together. No not at my place, I think my employees are uncomfortable in not knowing how to act or what to say. There are other pics of the guages in the gallery at the bottom of as of 2/?? gallery.

thanks Kevin...bound and determined, now more that ever!

 

Is that an original circuit breaker?
IIRC Ford used a votage reducer and 6V gauges for a number of years after they went to 12V. Number Dummy can probably give you the part #.

 

They call them circuit breakers in the repair manual. They look just like the one I bought today.

 

Kevin...computer's on the fritz so haven't checked in today. Keep sluggin', brother...

Right or wrong, I canned those circuit breakers exactly like yours. Just took the screws loose from the side of the panel and threw 'em in the parts box. Since these old trucks didn't have a single fuse, I can see why those were crucial. Now that all of these are protected by fuses, I figured that they were only a potential problem if they failed.

That said, you can keep them if you want. The way they're wired from stock is that that B side is just the hot side from the battery. The strap supplies the current to the hot side of both. The H is the protected supply to the headlight circuit. The A is the protected supply the the rest of the truck. (The fact that they're split is the reason that there are two "B" inputs to the headlight switch.) I hope I'm not just confusing the issue, but your big red "Headlight Power" wire is already the fuse protected supply for the headlights. The red "gauge power" wire is the fuse-protected supply for the gauges.

 

OK...finally got a look at your gauge pics. Yours are a little different shape because of the year, but are otherwise wired identical to mine. Here's the scoop.

(You really should can that breaker part entirely, IMHO, it's just another thing to fail and is redundant with the fuses now in place.)

The gauges work by having the hot side supplied with ~6V, and then are grounded both through the case and through the sender. The senders vary the resistance of that ground, and the gauges "compare" the two to provide a reading. For yours, that 6V input goes to the side of the gauges that have the metal straps. You need some way of supplying that 6V instead of the 12 you now have. The stock Ford way is to get a CVR at NAPA or wherever, put the "gauge power" wire to the input side of the CVR and wire the output side to one of those gauge posts with the straps. The straps then "spread the love" to the other two gauges.

The way I did it it was to put Runtz on each of the individual gauges. They're electronic instead of mechanical, and supposed to be much more reliable and accurate. (meaning expensive, like $15 apiece) You'd have to take off or cut those connecting straps, because the Runtz work on each of the individual gauges and would get fried by the straps' current. The Runtz have good instructions, they just connect right on the back of the gauge and the 12V "gauge power" gets split into 3 to the input of each of the Runtz.

The sender wires then connect to the "non-strap" side of the gauge, in either case.

I really wish they had sent a schematic of the EZ, it would have been a huge help with the comparison to the stock Ford schematic. I may draw one up with some directions and tips, seems like lots of us are using them...

 

Stew's got it! those original breakers are redundant and should be eliminated.

 

Thanks to everyone for the words of kindness and encouragement. I find it difficult at times, and other times I think of how he would have be bitching at me for the way I was doing something. I just came in from my truck. I have the front all wired including engine, coil, headlights, marker lights and turn signals. I have the new 12 volt bulbs in the left, right, and high beam indicators. Wires are ran to all three. I also got the low and high beam switch wired and put in. I have all the wires marked and ready for the ignition switch. I figured out the headlight switch as well. I marked the wires with tape so I would not forget where they go by morning. I need to know where to get the runtz 12 to 6 volt converter for the guages themselves though. I also need to know how you ran the wire for the fuel sending unit back to the tank.

I talked to my sandblaster. He started on the wrecker body today. Walford56 is coming down tomorrow to bring some parts to me. We will go have a look see. He needs the brake booster off of the truck as well.

Thanks to everyone on here for the kind words, you have made it much easier on me.

Srewrd68 I figured out to can the circuit breakers as well. It took some time, but I finally figured it out. Thanks for the help. I should finish it tomorrow and take it down to muffler shop on Friday.

As far as the truck stalling out. I looked at where the fuel lines was routed compared to where the exhaust manifold was pointing, and I am almost positive it was from the heat from the exhaust causing vapor lock.

Well, I am very tired as I did not sleep last night. I will try again shortly. I will be posting this post in the thread about another question as well.

Good night all and God Bless

 

Kevin...I bought my Runtz from the inventor.

http://www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com/

You can also get them from Speedway.com.

The inventor's a nice guy and got them to me in a day. (He's a hour away from me, though)

As far as the Fuel Gauge wire, I routed it out the firewall and down over the driver's frame rail, bundled it with the brake/taillight wires. Don't forget to put a ground wire from one of the sender screws to the frame or something good. There was one there already, I just replaced it.