FE in a '53
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From: Austin USA
FE in a '53
It will be a while before I put my engine back in, but I have a question. When I originally put the 352 in my '53 I raised up the engine mount (this was about 30 years ago). If I remember correctly, I did this so the fan would still match up with the radiator. I had a couple of brackets made to raise the engine about 3 inches. What have other folks done? Is there a problem with the fan if then engine is not raised? There probably are numerous trucks out there with FEs, what is the best install route? See the pic below. I'm trying to decide if I should leave this bracket, or set the cross member on the frame.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: San Francisco, Ca.
John_1953, I also have a 352 FE in my '55 F100 (work in progress).
I mounted the engine cross member on top of the frame.
I plan to use an electric fan and off the waterpump mounted fan blade.
If your engine is 3 inches higher, at the motor mounts, because of that extra bracket, that "could" make the angle of the engine a bit steep for the u-joints to take. Also the bottom of the fan blade may be closer to the radiator, because of the angle. Than again, maybe the angle isn't that much compared to having the cross member on the frame. Could be OK.
Since it looks like that extra bracket is bolted in, it should be no problem to try it both ways.
Maybe checkout this book: PRACTICAL ENGINE SWAPPING by John Thawley
Hope this helps.
Are those cast iron headers on your engine?
I mounted the engine cross member on top of the frame.
I plan to use an electric fan and off the waterpump mounted fan blade.
If your engine is 3 inches higher, at the motor mounts, because of that extra bracket, that "could" make the angle of the engine a bit steep for the u-joints to take. Also the bottom of the fan blade may be closer to the radiator, because of the angle. Than again, maybe the angle isn't that much compared to having the cross member on the frame. Could be OK.
Since it looks like that extra bracket is bolted in, it should be no problem to try it both ways.
Maybe checkout this book: PRACTICAL ENGINE SWAPPING by John Thawley
Hope this helps.
Are those cast iron headers on your engine?
Last edited by sierraben; Jul 4, 2006 at 07:14 PM.
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From: Joyce, WA
I have a 390 in my '56 f600 that I put in last winter. I used what looks like the same crossmember you have. I set mine on top of the frame with one inch raising blocks. The t-18 four speed is hung under the frame by one inch spacers between crossmember and frame. This brought the engine very close to level as it sits in the truck. With in 1/4 inch I believe. I have probably 3000 miles on this set up with no u-joint problems so far. This put my fan in the center of the original shroud also. I only had to notch shroud for radiator hoses. Using original y-block radiator that I had recored, I run a consistent 190 degrees.
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From: Joyce, WA
Sierraben:
I just went out and checked. It's tough when you can't remember stuff. About one inch between the top of the tranny and the floor of the cab. I can stick my fingers in the gap and wiggle them.
I just went out and checked. It's tough when you can't remember stuff. About one inch between the top of the tranny and the floor of the cab. I can stick my fingers in the gap and wiggle them.
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From: Austin USA
Sierraben,
Yes those are cast iron headers. I got the engine out of a '64 Ford Galaxie, that had a '66 352 in it from a truck.
I'm thinking the 3 inches might be a bit high. Back when I was driving it, I put about 50,000 miles on it like that with no problems except for clutch chatter which I am now thinking may be due to missalignment of the engine. The engine did tilt back a bit (not much though, there are some pics in one of my galleries). The input received here does help. I'll have to consider an electric fan. One thing I did not worry about back then, but will this time is ensuring that the engine and rear end are aligned. Hopefully that will fix the clutch chatter.
Yes those are cast iron headers. I got the engine out of a '64 Ford Galaxie, that had a '66 352 in it from a truck.
I'm thinking the 3 inches might be a bit high. Back when I was driving it, I put about 50,000 miles on it like that with no problems except for clutch chatter which I am now thinking may be due to missalignment of the engine. The engine did tilt back a bit (not much though, there are some pics in one of my galleries). The input received here does help. I'll have to consider an electric fan. One thing I did not worry about back then, but will this time is ensuring that the engine and rear end are aligned. Hopefully that will fix the clutch chatter.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: San Francisco, Ca.
56f600, how close is the lefthand engine valve cover to the firewall on your truck? Just curious.
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Post Fiend
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From: San Francisco, Ca.
John_1953, I don't think that the angle of the engine would cause clutch chatter, but I could be wrong.
Hang on to those cast iron headers; they're worth their weight in gold.
Hang on to those cast iron headers; they're worth their weight in gold.
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From: Austin USA
Originally Posted by sierraben
John_1953, I don't think that the angle of the engine would cause clutch chatter, but I could be wrong.
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From: Joyce, WA
Sierraben
Left hand head and valve cover are shugged up pretty tight. 3/4 inch or so. I left enough room for some movement and to be able to pull valve covers easily. The real deciding factor in the engine placement was the steering box. The headers that came with the engine come down an inch in front of the box. I had to "dimple" the front primary tube on that side to get clearance around engine mount on frame. If the mount sat on the frame I wouldn't had to do any massaging of headers.
Left hand head and valve cover are shugged up pretty tight. 3/4 inch or so. I left enough room for some movement and to be able to pull valve covers easily. The real deciding factor in the engine placement was the steering box. The headers that came with the engine come down an inch in front of the box. I had to "dimple" the front primary tube on that side to get clearance around engine mount on frame. If the mount sat on the frame I wouldn't had to do any massaging of headers.
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From: Austin USA
I think this time I'll start with the cross member on the frame and raise it up if necessary. I'll have the advantage of no sheetmetal so I can be a better judge of how the engine sits. Looking at some pics the engine was at a pretty good angle, just harder to see it surrounded by the sheetmetal.
I had to laugh as I was taking it apart. I actually used a chunk of 2X4 as a transmission mount! What the heck was I thinking! Surprised I didn't duct tape the thing on
At least I used good wood, 30 years old and no rot!
I had to laugh as I was taking it apart. I actually used a chunk of 2X4 as a transmission mount! What the heck was I thinking! Surprised I didn't duct tape the thing on
At least I used good wood, 30 years old and no rot!
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From: Austin USA
Sierraban,
Its an old Ford Toploader transmission. I've also heard them reffered to as HEH trannies. I'm thinking the was the transmission out of the '64 Galaxie (I think '64 was the first year this transmission was used).
Its an old Ford Toploader transmission. I've also heard them reffered to as HEH trannies. I'm thinking the was the transmission out of the '64 Galaxie (I think '64 was the first year this transmission was used).
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: San Francisco, Ca.
John_1953, how far back does the shifter come through the floor?
I thought about dropping in a T-10, but the shifter was too far back, so I opted for a T-18; maybe even drop in my torque splitter.
I thought about dropping in a T-10, but the shifter was too far back, so I opted for a T-18; maybe even drop in my torque splitter.
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