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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

85 Ranger Ignition Switch Won't Turn

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Old Jun 9, 2006 | 01:36 PM
  #1  
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Smurf-Slayer
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From: Atlantic, IA
85 Ranger Ignition Switch Won't Turn

Hi All -

I got the new stick assembly for my truck, and got it installed. Nice and tight now. Cost an arm and a leg, but it works.

Now, 2 days later, I was out running erands and when I got home I parked on the street. Last night I went out to put the truck in the driveway, and the key will not turn the switch in either direction. Puzzling...

So I went in and got the other key. Same thing, it won't turn.

At first I thought the locking steering wheel mechanism might be stuck or broke. I took the upper and lower coumn covers off, but I can't really see anything. So I got the book out, and just has I figured, to replace the ignition switch, you have to disconnect the wiring, and turn the key to the run position, and then push the retaining pin in and slide it out.

So, my question is, what is more likely, complete ignition switch failure, or locking column failure?

And if it is the key, how do I get it out if it won't turn?

If it is the column, how do I check to see, and then fix it if that is the problem?

I can't believe this... This truck has been great for the last three years, and now to major inconviences in two weeks!

I can't even move the truck now because the column is locked! ACK! I could use jacks to turn it, but I have a sloped driveway...

Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
 
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 07:18 AM
  #2  
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From: Beaver, Pennsylvania
Try turning the key while trying to move the steering wheel back & forth. Sometimes when you turn the key off & the wheels are turned pressure holds the steering wheel against the locks. (You may have too put some effort into moving the wheel.)

I used to run tow truck & have seen this many times.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 08:46 AM
  #3  
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From: Atlantic, IA
Well, it turns out that the ignition switch failed. I ended up having to drill out the tit that holds it in because I was unable to turn it to the "run" position to push it in.

In addition I had to drill through the switch from about an 85 degree angle all the way back to the little 1/2 or so "key" on the back of it that actually pushes the rod up and down. This required removing (or "breaking off") the chrome piece that the key slides in to. You have to be very carefull not to drill in to any of the pot metal/aluminum that holds the column together.

After getting it out and spending another 20+ minutes making sure all of the shavings were out, the new one slid right in and it works great.

Let me tell you this was a major pain to replace a $12 part. I also would NOT recommend this to anyone who's not good with tools and COMPLETLEY understands what they are dealing with. If it goes bad, you are going to need most likely need to replace the column...

I talked to a couple of dealers and they said that it is most likely the keyswitch that failed, though a "catastrophic" failure of the "locking column" mechanism isn't un heard of.

Thanks,
 
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