I went to start my truck this morning and as i turned the key all I heard was a loud crack. My lock cylinder goes all the way to the start position but it won't crank and it doesn't spring back. Also, the little button on the left side of the steering column that allows you to remove the key isn't needed anymore. The key turns back without it.
I was wondering if anyone knows about this problem so maybe I won't have to dig into the column clueless. Thanks.

 

hi,
I had the same problem. I take it that you have tilt steering? Anyway Tilt the column all the way down after removing steering wheel. Then you remove both shrouds from steering column, you should be able to see down inside to where the switch pushes the rod that runs down the top of your steering column. there is a pin inside that may have worked itself loose and fallen out . this must be replaced if you can find the old pin it would be much cheaper you could jb weld it back into place. a used column is about $250-$300. hope this helps....

 

That is probably the lower actuator broken. Just repaired mine (3) weeks ago. Lower actuator cost around $9 at the dealer and the only special tools required was a pivot pin remover, OTC7889 available at Napa here for about $20. I will post the link to the other posts on this and you can read them. The lower actuator breaking is even common in NEW Fords, according to what my dealer said. It's not that difficult you just have to pay attention to the order everthing comes apart. If you have any specific questions just post up.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=294617

guzzler96

 

my ignition broke yesterday and was reading some posts today. mine is a 1991 f-150 non tilt steering, automatic. how do i get to internal parts. how do i drop the steering column. i bought the switch and key lock but as i have not got into it yet i don't know what else may be in need of replacing. please advice on this non tilt steering.a parts breakdown schematic would really help is someone would print it. i will attempt the repair this week-end. thanks, john

 

Swing by a dealer and the parts guys can print you an exploded that will give you a general idea of how it all goes together or comes apart. Did you read the post that I put the link up for?? Mine was tilt and manual trans., but I have the shop manual that I bought with my '90 and it has non tilt auto. in it too. I will read when I get home and see if I can determine what is different from how mine was.

 

i did read the posts. i got a chance to work on the problem tonight. i did go to the dealer and got a print out of the steering column but it was very vague. i replaced the key lock assembly and the switch. when i turn it to start it seems like the rod does not extend enough to go into the start position and i noticed that when i turned the key to the start position and manually pulled back on the rod it would not retract unless i turned the key back at the same time. i think that the problem is with the gear wheel attached to the end of the ignition assembly and the part that attaches to the end of the rod.how do i get to this part in order to replace it. do i have to remove the turn signal assembly, hazzard sw. etc i will have to remove the key lock assy. again but what else do i have to remove in order to get to this part.i will go to the dealer and see if they have the internal part. thanks again, john

 

It was the lower actuator. Or at least i think thats what its called. A curved piece of metal that goes from the gear to the rod. Anyways, i found an exploded diagram from a Mitchells program at my school and took it all apart to find that piece snapped in two. Thanks for the help everyone.

 

The actuator part number for mine was E9TZ-3E715-B. You will have to unscrew the turn signal lever, unscrew the turn signal switch and remove the screw for the key buzzer. All of this of course is after removal of the steering wheel, which requires a puller. The turn signal lever unscrews in a counter clockwise motion from the turn signal switch. To lower the column, if you look under the dash you will probably see (2) bolts that hold the column to the dash and (4) bolts that hold the bracket to the column. I removed the bracket from the column because I had the electrical switch off at the time and it was easier to get the actuator rod that runs from the lower actuator to the ignition switch(electrical) out. The dash opening will hold the column up. Remove the collar that the key/lock cylinder goes into. Mine was (3) screws, but yours may be (2) nuts with washers. This should expose the lower actuator. You will need a roll pin punch to drive the roll pin out of the lower actuator in order to be able to reuse the roll pin. The lower actuator pins to the actuator rod. I got a set at Harbor Freight for about $16. See how far you can go with this and post back with anymore questions.
The gear wheel is brass and marries up to the upper actuator. I really don't think you will find a problem with the gear itself. You will have to remove the key/lock cylinder, snap ring, bearing and the gear to be able to get the upper actuator out so that you can put it all back correctly.

Post back if you have problems,
guzzler96

 

i took your advice and purchasd a pivot pin removal tool at napa. i got the upper actuator same p/n as yours. i removed everything and installed the actuator installed the pivot pins and spring PITA. the problem i now have is installing the lower actuator back on the gear assy. how did you do this? except for this everything is back on to this point, thanks to your help.

 

JOB complete!!!!!
i finally completed the installation of the lower actuator and final assembly. i attached the actuator to the rod and pulled it to the rear, then taped the rod to the column with a couple of turns of electrical tape to keep it in place. i removed the metal piece (guide) for the steering lock pin. this lets you see inside to guide the actuator teeth to the gear while pushing forward on the housing. i did this at night with the kind if flashlight that straps to your head. this worked great for me. thanks again for all your help. john.

 

Sorry I didn't get back on the upper actuator and the gear alignment, but glad you got everything working. I had to go buy a stove with the BOSS LADY(wife).

In the infamous words of Hannibal Smith of the "A" Team," I love it when a plan comes together."

I've heard they charge big bucks to make that repair at the dealer and my dealer was less than cooperative when I needed a tip or two along the way to finish mine. This forum has been a lifesaver for information.



Keep on postin',
guzzler96

 

im getting ready to tear my colum down, 90 f150 tilt wheel, i renoved the covers on the colum next to the dash and seen the liittle pop metal thingy was broken, my rod pushes up when you try to start it lol, it turns my ignition on so least i can still drive it ;p

guzzler96 your post are great on the replace of this, and thanks a million for the part #'s

 

Your welcome. If I can provide information that will save anyone else the expense and the agony on a repair I certainly will. I don't know about a lot of things, but that is what this forum is for. We can all help each other.



Keep on Postin',
guzzler96

 

Welp i changed my actuator today, cost me $10.28 for the part, went to my garage tore the colum apart cleaned it all up and re greased everything put the new actuator in put it all back together everything works great, tok me bout 1 1/2 hours to do it but was well worth it, 90 f150 tilt wheel, it wasnt hard at all. and definetly worth the $10.28 for the part.

 

Don't remember who said it but "Knowledge is Power". Glad you got it fixed Crazz. It's not that difficult if you know how it comes apart. Believe me I was pulling my hair a few times while doing mine.



guzzler96