Looking for some help on '46 1-ton brake upgrades/ideas
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Looking for some help on '46 1-ton brake upgrades/ideas
Hello all. I just purchased a '46 Ford 1-ton this last week and was looking for some help with ideas on upgrading my brakes. I've been reading forums and websites all night in an attempt to familiarize myself with this truck because I haven't torn into it yet. I would like to retain the stock front axle and wheels (they are 17" and have the big 5 bolt pattern, 5 x 6 7/8"?) if possible but it just may not be feasible to achieve adequate braking performance. I'm torn between the look of the original wheels and tires and switching to some 17" Stockton steel wheels with modern tires for better handling and braking. I do plan on changing the stock rear axle to a newer axle which would require me to have custom wheel adapters fabbed for the rear wheels if I kept the stock wheels.
So currently I'm leaning towards scrapping the idea of keeping the stock wheels and going with some Stocktons. One thing I'm not sure about is if my spindles are compatible with the disc brake conversion kits like the ones from ECi or not. Is there a difference between the 1 ton and 1/2 ton spindles? Thanks for reading this and any input is appreciated.
So currently I'm leaning towards scrapping the idea of keeping the stock wheels and going with some Stocktons. One thing I'm not sure about is if my spindles are compatible with the disc brake conversion kits like the ones from ECi or not. Is there a difference between the 1 ton and 1/2 ton spindles? Thanks for reading this and any input is appreciated.
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From: Wild Wonderful WV
gruyter ..... Welcome to FTE. I have a '41 1/2 ton and went with the ECI conversion kit on the front to maintain the 5 on 5 1/2 bolt pattern and original wheels. I've run it this way for about three years, now I'm in the process of tearing the truck down and redoing it with drop axle 8" rear end etc.
Basically, I'm changing out every thing on the frontend i.e. axle spring, shocks, kingpins etc but keeping the original spindles. ECI's kit works very well. I had Stockton make some new wheels so I'll be running wide white radials and keeping the 5 on 5 1/2 bolt pattern on the front. The rear will be 5 on 4 1/2 do to the new 8" rear end. As for having adapters fabbed. adaptors are available online usually for about 50 bucks a pair or so.
Hope this helps, I have a pair of 5 on 5 1/2 to 5 on 4 1/2 adaptors if you need and cant find any. I'm just not a fan of running wheel adaptors.
Basically, I'm changing out every thing on the frontend i.e. axle spring, shocks, kingpins etc but keeping the original spindles. ECI's kit works very well. I had Stockton make some new wheels so I'll be running wide white radials and keeping the 5 on 5 1/2 bolt pattern on the front. The rear will be 5 on 4 1/2 do to the new 8" rear end. As for having adapters fabbed. adaptors are available online usually for about 50 bucks a pair or so.
Hope this helps, I have a pair of 5 on 5 1/2 to 5 on 4 1/2 adaptors if you need and cant find any. I'm just not a fan of running wheel adaptors.
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From: Orange County, CA
Gruyter, welcome to FTE, hope you enjoy your stay and find the info you need.
I have a '47 1 ton, and have been thinking about this myself since mine will be used as a tow vehicle. The 17" wheels on the '47 are split rims, so you are going to be better off getting new one piece rims, unless you are dead set on an absolutle original truck. The axle on the 1 ton is the same axle as the one found on the 1/2 ton, however the spindles are specific to the 1 ton, they have a different part number than the 1/2 ton. Checking the Ford parts books the 1 ton also used different bearings than the 1/2 ton, so most of the bolt on disc brake kits probably will not work. If you can, remove one of the wheels and brake assembly and get measurements of the spindle where the bearings ride. Contact one of the shops selling these kits and see if they have a kit that will work for you.
I have a '47 1 ton, and have been thinking about this myself since mine will be used as a tow vehicle. The 17" wheels on the '47 are split rims, so you are going to be better off getting new one piece rims, unless you are dead set on an absolutle original truck. The axle on the 1 ton is the same axle as the one found on the 1/2 ton, however the spindles are specific to the 1 ton, they have a different part number than the 1/2 ton. Checking the Ford parts books the 1 ton also used different bearings than the 1/2 ton, so most of the bolt on disc brake kits probably will not work. If you can, remove one of the wheels and brake assembly and get measurements of the spindle where the bearings ride. Contact one of the shops selling these kits and see if they have a kit that will work for you.
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Thanks for the great information guys. After thinking on it I've decided to go with some new Stockton wheels and modern tires instead of the stock. As I get the front end disassembled, I'll see if I can make the stock spindles work with one of the disc brake kits. Thanks again.
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I have a '47 tonner with stock 17'' split rims. There are 7.00X 17 on front and 7.5X17 on the rear. If I get modern Stockton rims, do I have to change anything else (eg. brakes)? Hope the question isn't too basic. Tim
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'47 1 ton brakes
I've got a '47 1 ton, and I'm wrestling with the same questions. I simply cannot find much of anything for my 1 ton. If you have any luck, I would be grateful for any answers you find.
On another note, I cannot get the lugnuts off of this thing. So far, I can only get one wheel off. I was thinking about cutting the lugs off, or splitting the lugnuts, but I can't find them either.....
On another note, I cannot get the lugnuts off of this thing. So far, I can only get one wheel off. I was thinking about cutting the lugs off, or splitting the lugnuts, but I can't find them either.....
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From: Orange County, CA
Going off memory here, I think the lugs are reverse thread on one of the sides...I can't say for sure as my 1 ton is in storage right now. Maybe that is why they are not coming off.
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Thanks! A friend of mine suggested reverse threads about a week ago - the first time I tried, and they wouldn't budge. I did try to loosen them with my impact wrench in a reverse direction a couple of times through the week but with no luck.
Finally, with your suggestion, I decided to go for broke and used a cheater bar on the end of my ratchet. I guess the week of penetrating oil did the trick - 'cause they're now off - yippee!
Thanks so much. Now I need to figure out how to get the drums off.....?
Finally, with your suggestion, I decided to go for broke and used a cheater bar on the end of my ratchet. I guess the week of penetrating oil did the trick - 'cause they're now off - yippee!
Thanks so much. Now I need to figure out how to get the drums off.....?
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The tonners have a free floating rear axle which means that you must undo the nuts on the end of the axle and pull the axles. This will expose the two large nuts which lock the bearings and brake drums to the axle. Back off the brake shoes, undo the nuts, and the drum and bearings should pull off by hand. I just went thru this exercise with my 1940 one ton express. I also intend to modify a spare set of 17" rims by machining the center section to adapt a modern 16" tubeless rim. This will allow you to use the original hubcaps if you want to keep the look. As you found out the lug nuts are RH/LH. The lugs themselves should have a stamp either LH or RH. I'm on the downhill side of a body off restoration so I've had to come to grips with some of what you're asking. Good luck on your project!!
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Clarification of my previous post. I used the term axle to describe two different parts which wasn't clear. Step one involves removing the axle shafts from the axle housing. Step two involves removing the bearings and brake drums from the axle housing. Hope that clears it up.
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Just reread your original post and realized you're talking about front drums. Back off brake shoes, remove dust cover and the spindle nut and washer. Grab brake drum and pull. Bearings and all should slide off. Regarding the original brakes I drove my truck in LA traffic, freeways and all for 10 years and found them to be up to the job. Obviously, you'll not have the benefit of power assist nor ABS braking, which means allowing for a lot of erratic drivers. I can attest to the fact that it is possible to lock up those brakes and smoke your tires - all it takes is a strong right leg and a firm grip on the wheel!!
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On the early Lockheed brakes there are two large 11/16 nuts located near the top of the backing plate, which are attached to an eccentric cam that moves the shoes in contact with the drums. Whenever I pull the drums I rotate thse inboard so that the drum isn't rubbing on the shoes. Just makes it easier to get them off. In the case of the 46-47 brakes you may have the self locating/energizing design which would preclude this step. Someone who has worked with those brakes would be better qualified to speak to the "backing off" question.
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From: Abington US
I have just started building my truck. The front wheels are 17" 5x6.5". I converted them to 5x5.5" by using my buddy's hubs off of his 53 f100. The rear end is a 2-ton bano rear end? I believe. I am replacing that with a 69 mustang rear end with 5x4.5". Now I just have to see if anybody would be interested in buying the rear end and tires off of me, since now I will have no use for them.
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