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[updated:LAST EDITED ON 08-Jun-02 AT 11:51 AM (EST)]After fighting with store bought wrenches that didn't last or wouldnt grip like they promised, I made my own. I used a piece of flat 1/4 inch steel 8 inches long by 1 1/2 inches wide. Using a bench grinder, I ground one corner off to make a radius to allow the wrench to tighten and grip the filter. Then I drilled a hole at either end of the radius. Next I took a 12 inch length of bicycle chain and attached it to the steel handle through the holes I just drilled. And it's done. The chain is flexible enough to allow me to get into some of the tightest places. Total cost: it was stuff I had lying around so all it cost was my time.
Here's a rough drawing of what the steps are:
http://www.geocities.com/hotwhlz85/images/filterwrench.gif
hotwhlz85,
I had the same problem a while back and I figured that geocities dosn't support that little feature. You could use a link described in the "html reference". [link:www.geocities.com/hotwhlz85/filterwrench|www.geocities.com/hotwhlz85/filterwrench]
I usually slam a small screwdriver in the bottom to drain the oil into the empty pan first, then drain the oil from the pan, then take a screwdriver and poke it through the side and twist it off. Keeps the side of the engine clean and the frame clean.
I use to work in a lube bay and found big channel lock/water pump plyers and a three prong claw thing I got from northerntool.com to be the best and quickest things. Except on GM cars where they mount them on the right side of the car inside the unibody frame rail, then the best thing is a sawz-all ;->
FRAM FILTERS????? ARGH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
please, please go to the "oil and lubrication" forum, and find a link to the oil filter study. I can't stand to see Fords on the side of the road, and you're doing your best to get it there with a Fram. I have used 1 Fram filter ever in my life, and I yanked it and did another oil change because the engine ran worse and the oil was filthy almost immediately. I think a Motorcraft or any other quality filter is better after 10,000 miles than a Fram after 800 miles. The guts are made of cardboard, and they fall off or disentigrate within a month, or 800 miles. Go buy a filter wrench, they cost no more than $10, get any of the fine filters available (some are even cheaper than that orange box foolishness), and they'll save the life of your engine. Although it is a topic for another forum, I'd greatly encourage all of you to be warned about the Fram scam, it's a disaster waiting to happen for good, hard working people like yourselves who assume that every American company is as dedicated to quality as you are. Possibly an eggageration, but from what I've read, and my experience with their products, it's a true corporate scam, and even Fram engineers have candidly admitted that they've scarificed quality to make more money, since their reputation has been established to many people. TK
'77 F100, 302 (the aftermarket Prodigy), C4
Cadet Second Lieutenant John F. Daly III
South Carolina Corps of Cadets, The Citadel
The TorqueKing
I've ruined a few good leather belts when I have had to get clogged fuel filters off in 10°F. weather! Couldn't get in the tool box...it was frozen shut! Nothing like changing filters, and trying to hold your pants up on the side of the road!
So, nothing beats a homemade specialty tool...even if you have to use it with just your shorts on!