Steps to replace Radius Arm Bushings....help
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 510
Likes: 1
Steps to replace Radius Arm Bushings....help
So I've found the problem as to why my tires bow out at the bottom causing inner tire wear. My radius arm bushings are shot. Anyways I believe I've done enough research thanks to you guys and your posts. I want to make sure I have the steps down that I need. This is for a 88 F150 4x4.
Raise one side (only one stand) and secure frame on stand. Place jack under axle and raise it to remove tire. Unbolt shocks and spring. Unbolt 1 1/8 inch nut on radius arm. Lower axle and it should come out, use a steel bar to pull axle forward if needed. Replace bushings. Install is reverse. Am I missing anything?
Raise one side (only one stand) and secure frame on stand. Place jack under axle and raise it to remove tire. Unbolt shocks and spring. Unbolt 1 1/8 inch nut on radius arm. Lower axle and it should come out, use a steel bar to pull axle forward if needed. Replace bushings. Install is reverse. Am I missing anything?
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,271
Likes: 9
From: Franklin, IN
I never had to lower my axles. Heck, all four tires were still bearing the trucks weight. Just unbolt the radius arm and pull it forward with a come along to remove and install the bushings, then bolt it back together.
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 510
Likes: 1
I was wondering if I could do that haha. I almost forgot, I have to take the front driveshaft off too right? Sorry for the questions, I just want to make this as easy and least time consuming as possible
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: New Albany, In
Trending Topics
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 292
From: Laramie, WY
I think you're missing that the radius arm bushings probably aren't the cause of bad camber. Never a bad idea to keep them fresh, but I'd take a close look at the axle pivot bushings. Those are a more likely suspect for poor camber.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 12,835
Likes: 2,437
When I do radius arm bushings I unbolt the lower shock mount(s), remove the coil spring, loosen the radius arm upper stud and lower bolt and then the radius arm nut/assembly. Loosening the front of the radius arm allows you to swing the arm to help get it in and out of the bracket. That is the method I was taught when I worked at the Ford dealer but as mentioned there are several ways to skin this cat.
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 510
Likes: 1
After replacing the radius arm bushings (which wasn't hard at all) the wandering while driving has cleared up completely. All bushings were shot. Anyways I noticed afterwards that my tires bow out still however I noticed while putting everything together that it seems to be from toe out. My tires look like \ / slightly if you look from about but it seems to be enough to indicate an alignment issue. Would toe out even a little be enough to give the look of \ / when looking from above and / \ from the front? And would it cause the inner tire wear I'm having?
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 510
Likes: 1
Yeah I had heard about that but this is after my truck has been driven a mile and I park it having never reversed it. I checked out the ball joints today using the 12 and 6 o'clock method after lifting each end and I also used a rod under each tire to check the ball joints. There is no play and they look pretty darn good. No popping sound either. It has new springs, tie rods and drag link, deleted the sway bar so no bushings for that and did new radius arm bushings today. Only thing I can think of is front quad springs (they are shot as well) and the axle pivot bushings and a bad toe out alignment. Anything else to look at?
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,330
Likes: 292
From: Laramie, WY
That's a good point Leo. Make sure you're checking camber only after the truck has rolled forward.
Camber has less effect on tire wear than toe. So make sure toe is set with just a touch of toe in. Toe out causes wandering. If camber is off when the truck has rolled forward, a few things could be the cause. Ball joints if really worn. Axle pivot bushings if worn. And coil springs if old & sacked out. Inspect the pivot bushings best you can. Pushing up on the axle near the bushings with a jack and watching for how far the beam moves in the mount can give you an idea of how far they're compressed.
The last time I replaced mine I dropped the whole front axle, and replaced radius arm bushings at the same time (and sway bar bushings, and axle shaft U joints). I used a ball joint press to remove & install the bushings in the beams. The first time I did it I left the axle in the truck and struggled to make enough room (left the axle shafts in place, may be where I went wrong). I know it can be done both ways, plenty of guys leave the axle in the truck. I'll drop the axle again next time I need to do them though.
Camber has less effect on tire wear than toe. So make sure toe is set with just a touch of toe in. Toe out causes wandering. If camber is off when the truck has rolled forward, a few things could be the cause. Ball joints if really worn. Axle pivot bushings if worn. And coil springs if old & sacked out. Inspect the pivot bushings best you can. Pushing up on the axle near the bushings with a jack and watching for how far the beam moves in the mount can give you an idea of how far they're compressed.
The last time I replaced mine I dropped the whole front axle, and replaced radius arm bushings at the same time (and sway bar bushings, and axle shaft U joints). I used a ball joint press to remove & install the bushings in the beams. The first time I did it I left the axle in the truck and struggled to make enough room (left the axle shafts in place, may be where I went wrong). I know it can be done both ways, plenty of guys leave the axle in the truck. I'll drop the axle again next time I need to do them though.