Removing cylinder head bollt stub ???? shavings???
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Lewisville, NC
Removing cylinder head bollt stub ???? shavings???
I removed the broken stub of the cylinder head bolt on my 239 V8 flathead using the cylinder head, a sleeve that I made on a lathe that slid down the bolt hole with a 1/8" hole in the sleeve's center. I drilled the bolt out using a successively larger series of bits until I could collapse the bolt stub with a punch and unsrew it, then ran a tap to clean it. Worked pretty well, actually, only flatted a little of the thread in the block, still have well over 50% thread engagement at the worst spot, so I think it will take the torque.
My question is about the bit shavings. I was working on the bolt directly above the plug on cylinder #3, second from the back on the passenger side. For the drill shavings that fell down the hole, where did they end up? Is that a blind hole where they can't do any damage or is that in the valve area under the intake manifold? Do I need to pull the intake manifold to clean that up?
Overall pretty satisfied with the process. My 17 y.o. son John helped out, cutting and grinding the dowel pins to help align the head until the bolts could be put in and helping out overall. I can see his skill level and confidence growing. That's nice.
My question is about the bit shavings. I was working on the bolt directly above the plug on cylinder #3, second from the back on the passenger side. For the drill shavings that fell down the hole, where did they end up? Is that a blind hole where they can't do any damage or is that in the valve area under the intake manifold? Do I need to pull the intake manifold to clean that up?
Overall pretty satisfied with the process. My 17 y.o. son John helped out, cutting and grinding the dowel pins to help align the head until the bolts could be put in and helping out overall. I can see his skill level and confidence growing. That's nice.
Last edited by Narwhal; Jan 14, 2006 at 11:19 AM.
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
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From: Durham NC
If it doesn't go into an intake or the valve chamber, put a magnet down the hole to pick up the chips. Next time coat the drill with a heavy layer of thick grease, and remove clean and recoat often to reduce the number of chips that fall into the hole to a minimum.
Hint: you can magnatize a tool like a screwdriver very easily if needed. Take a couple feet of hook-up wire or a single strand of lamp cord and wrap it around the shank of the screwdriver in a neat coil. The more winds the stronger the magnet that will be produced, but don't overlap or double up. Hold one stripped end of the wire against one terminal of the vehicle's battery, and strike the other end across the other terminal like striking a match. Sparking will occur, but it is harmless. Just do it once, unwrap the wire and test the magnetic property by touching it to a loose steel bolt or screw. If it's not strong enough, try it again with more wraps and/or a harder "strike" across the battery terminal. If that doesn't produce a strong enough magnet, try a better quality screwdriver, the higher the quality of the tool steel, the stronger the magnet will be.
Hint: you can magnatize a tool like a screwdriver very easily if needed. Take a couple feet of hook-up wire or a single strand of lamp cord and wrap it around the shank of the screwdriver in a neat coil. The more winds the stronger the magnet that will be produced, but don't overlap or double up. Hold one stripped end of the wire against one terminal of the vehicle's battery, and strike the other end across the other terminal like striking a match. Sparking will occur, but it is harmless. Just do it once, unwrap the wire and test the magnetic property by touching it to a loose steel bolt or screw. If it's not strong enough, try it again with more wraps and/or a harder "strike" across the battery terminal. If that doesn't produce a strong enough magnet, try a better quality screwdriver, the higher the quality of the tool steel, the stronger the magnet will be.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Southern New Hampshire
Since the bolts on a flathead go into the water jacket it is imperative that they be coated with sealant before installing. Permatex #2 Aviation is the accepted choice among builders.
Also coat both sides of the head gasket with either a true aluminum paint in a spray can or the much higher priced auto store similarities. Apply while tacky.
Also coat both sides of the head gasket with either a true aluminum paint in a spray can or the much higher priced auto store similarities. Apply while tacky.
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Seattle WA.
Originally Posted by AXracer
If it doesn't go into an intake or the valve chamber, put a magnet down the hole to pick up the chips. Next time coat the drill with a heavy layer of thick grease, and remove clean and recoat often to reduce the number of chips that fall into the hole to a minimum.
Hint: you can magnatize a tool like a screwdriver very easily if needed. Take a couple feet of hook-up wire or a single strand of lamp cord and wrap it around the shank of the screwdriver in a neat coil. The more winds the stronger the magnet that will be produced, but don't overlap or double up. Hold one stripped end of the wire against one terminal of the vehicle's battery, and strike the other end across the other terminal like striking a match. Sparking will occur, but it is harmless. Just do it once, unwrap the wire and test the magnetic property by touching it to a loose steel bolt or screw. If it's not strong enough, try it again with more wraps and/or a harder "strike" across the battery terminal. If that doesn't produce a strong enough magnet, try a better quality screwdriver, the higher the quality of the tool steel, the stronger the magnet will be.
Hint: you can magnatize a tool like a screwdriver very easily if needed. Take a couple feet of hook-up wire or a single strand of lamp cord and wrap it around the shank of the screwdriver in a neat coil. The more winds the stronger the magnet that will be produced, but don't overlap or double up. Hold one stripped end of the wire against one terminal of the vehicle's battery, and strike the other end across the other terminal like striking a match. Sparking will occur, but it is harmless. Just do it once, unwrap the wire and test the magnetic property by touching it to a loose steel bolt or screw. If it's not strong enough, try it again with more wraps and/or a harder "strike" across the battery terminal. If that doesn't produce a strong enough magnet, try a better quality screwdriver, the higher the quality of the tool steel, the stronger the magnet will be.
Last edited by 51ford fan; Jan 14, 2006 at 05:26 PM.
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Lewisville, NC
Originally Posted by 286merc
Since the bolts on a flathead go into the water jacket it is imperative that they be coated with sealant before installing. Permatex #2 Aviation is the accepted choice among builders.
Great advice, thanks.
Also coat both sides of the head gasket with either a true aluminum paint in a spray can or the much higher priced auto store similarities. Apply while tacky.
Great advice, thanks.
Also coat both sides of the head gasket with either a true aluminum paint in a spray can or the much higher priced auto store similarities. Apply while tacky.
Thanks.
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Posting Guru
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