If I choose to keep the original Front end on my 47 truck, will a 302 SB V8/C4 Tranny be ok, as far as weight, etc.?

 

Most definetly you'll be okay weight wise. The only think to check for is make sure you have enough clearance between the pan and the I beam (allow for suspension travel), but other than that, you'll have no problems leaving the stock I beam. But do consider upgrading the brakes for safety. I am going to be installing a similar in my '47 1 ton.

 

Do you have a source for the Engine Mounts for the 302SB/C4 that doesn't have a crossmember?

 

I don't myself, might have to check some of the street rod places, or have a set custom fabb'd for the truck. For my '47 I was just going to use one of those crossmember types. The '47 is goin to be a tow vehicle, so I am not going to the slickest mounts. The frame has nearly the same dimensions as the F1, so perhaps they have something that might be what you are looking for.

 

I am also giong to keep my original front end, with upgraded brakes. I purchased a 90 302 efi and a c4. Should I keep the keep the efi and try to get a wiring harness or convert it to a carb? I'm alot more familiar with older motors than newer. Is there somewhere I can get a set of heders to fit on this motor that will fit into a 47 pickup? tom

 

The area where you get the most fit problems with the headers is by the steering box. I had a 289 in my truck, and had a big of a clearance problem, and that was with stock early '90's headers. Everything else is ok, just worry about by the steering box.
Carb or EFI is up to you really. Carb is easy to work on, but EFI gives better cold start and better mileage. EFI will require more time and money to get functioning properly, so ask you self, how much time and money are you willing to spend getting it running.

 

Tom,I have a set of headers for a 302 new in the box I got at a yard sale.Said 70 ford 302 pickup in felt pen on box.I was out last night measuring clearance between my stock manifold and frame to see if stock steering box will fit in. Weird,cause I put in the 302 first and now want to loose the misfit chev steering and tilt wheel etc.Looks like i have 7 3/4 inches and the original steering box I just got is 7 5/8.I can grind a cover bolt head thinner and gain,but will have to pull exhaust to get it through the hole...If you want the headers,let me know,couldnt pass them up for 50.00. Im new to computers,dont understand how to PM.... GB

 

Redwood, I hope you have also kept or bought the engine management computer for that engine if you are staying with EFI. I put a '87 302 from a Lincoln Town Car in my '46. EFI is great if you can sort out your wiring harness and/or are willing to spend the money to solve your issues as I have had to do. I am using Ford Racing shorty headers with a Heidts IFS. If you have any questions just ask, as my changeout was a self-taught learning experience....and I don't even consider myself a mechanic!

 

One thing I did on my 46 was to swap out the front axle for the 48-52 axle...axles are identical, (backing plates, brakes, etc, are a bolt-on for this later axle),except for the mounting of the shocks. Using this axle elimates the old style "friction"shocks and improves the ride. You also need the shock mounting brackets and the frame needs to be drilled for the "newer" style "airplane" (modern style shocks) , buy the newer gas shocks that match the old original style, install Teflon liner in the springs and it does help.

 

Gentlemen, while your on the subject, has anyone found a front sway bar that will fit? I've been searching for a while and haven't come up with anything I liked. I swapped in an 84 9" from a Bronco in the rear with the Bronco sway bar and that fit like a dream just had to straighten the offset links.

 

Not only isn't weight a problem because your new engine and tranny are lighter than the stuff it replaced,but the axle itself is stronger than anything else you can put in there. I still have the stock axles under my 38 and 39 cars,a dropped beam axle under my 32 coupe,and will be keeping a beam axle under my 34 pu when it goes together. The independent front suspensions ride and handle better,but the original beam axle is stronger. I also don't have any problems with the way it rides or handles. I drive my cars,I don't road race them.

 

Your transmission mount will have to be changed also for a C4. I have an old Custom Classic Trucks magazine that shows some guy cutting a section out of the orginal trans crossmember about 3" by 13" and welding a 1/8" plate in and making a platform of sorts to set the trans mount on, he braced it up with some triangle shaped side pieces. It seemed to work pretty good. I think I will try it with my 46, because I want to use the under floor pedals with a power booster and double master.

 

I think the way I would go would be to just buy the Chassis Engineering trans mount and wishbone splitting kit. IF the 46 pu has a wishbone and a actual X-Member like the 41 and older pickups have,that is. This is a well-engineered kit that allows you to drop the pan to change trans filters and fluid without having to pull the engine or trans. It also has new Heim ends you weld to your wishbones after splitting them,and they bolt right to your new X-member bottom plate,avoiding having them attached to the frame rails where it destroys your front suspension and handling. It keep them close together.

If you don't have actual X-Member like the earlier trucks and just have a piece of channel steel crossing between the two frame rails,the best way to go is with one of those tubular trans mounts that slide in between the frame rails and bolt to it on each side. These add considerable strength to the chassis to keep it from flexing. Especially if you get one that has a big square flat plate on each end with 4 bolt holes.

Either way you go,the new tranny frame mount will use stock rubber cushions on the bottom rear of the trans. For safety's sake,it is a good idea to add a driveshaft hoop to catch the driveshaft if the U-Joint fails.

 

BTW,make sure you get your new driveshaft made to the correct length,and that you get it balanced. Chances are your old driveshaft will be too long and will need to be shortened,but you will still need to get it balanced. This doesn't really cost very much,and your u-joints will last a lot longer and you will avoid vibrations if you do this. Any large city will have a big truck shop that rebuilds springs and driveshafts. If you don't live close to one,ask a local company with dump trucks and 18 wheelers where they take their trucks for repairs they don't do themselves. That will be your place.

 

Yep, the 42-47 don't have an X-member. 42 was the first year Ford made an actual truck frame with Parallel springs on each corner. The guy I was talking about did this on a 48 frame which is very similar to the 42-47s, Oh well, just my 2 cents worth.