residual vs proportioning valves?
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residual vs proportioning valves?
By installing the Wilwood residual valves in my brake system, (2 psi for drums and 10 psi for the front discs) does this eliminate the need for a proportioning valve in the brake system?
Thanks,
Thanks,
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 932
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From: DFW, TX
RMF,
The residual pressure valves help keep a certain amount of pressure at the wheel cylinder/caliper to prevent the shoe/pad from backing off the drum/rotor and to keep the pedal travel to a minimum. The residual valves do not affect the "proportioning" function that determines how much pressure is sent to the back brakes. So, unfortunately, open the wallet and invest in a proportioning valve of some kind. Many "combination valves" perform the residual pressure function, the proportioning function, and the "delay" function for the discs when using a disc front/drum rear set-up.
Lots of good info at the MP Brakes website to help you decide what you need.
Good Luck!
Kent
The residual pressure valves help keep a certain amount of pressure at the wheel cylinder/caliper to prevent the shoe/pad from backing off the drum/rotor and to keep the pedal travel to a minimum. The residual valves do not affect the "proportioning" function that determines how much pressure is sent to the back brakes. So, unfortunately, open the wallet and invest in a proportioning valve of some kind. Many "combination valves" perform the residual pressure function, the proportioning function, and the "delay" function for the discs when using a disc front/drum rear set-up.
Lots of good info at the MP Brakes website to help you decide what you need.
Good Luck!
Kent
Last edited by fatfords; Jul 6, 2005 at 11:21 AM.
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Kent,
Thanks for clarifying this issue for me. I still have at least one proportioning valve laying around from a disc/drum combo vehicle (90 F150) so it's not a case of prying open the wallet (not that there's much in it). Was hoping to avoid the unsightliness of the proportioning valve.
Again thanks,
Thanks for clarifying this issue for me. I still have at least one proportioning valve laying around from a disc/drum combo vehicle (90 F150) so it's not a case of prying open the wallet (not that there's much in it). Was hoping to avoid the unsightliness of the proportioning valve.
Again thanks,
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 932
Likes: 9
From: DFW, TX
I know what you mean with the "unsightly" components and the "prying open the wallet" comment is speaking from my own experiences. Seems like when you think you're done, you've got to go get one more thing and re-do what you thought you were done with!
I have seen many vehicles that use a residual valve on the front, with a "T" to each wheel, and an adjustable valve under the body with the residual valve going to the back drums. (BTW, I've read that the residual valves are not needed if you use a firewall mounted MC) This is usually a very "clean" looking install. I've not driven one of these set-ups, so can't comment on the deletion of the delay valve, but I know it's been done that way. The delay is supposed to let the back drums "catch up" to the front discs and reduce the "nose dive".
The adjustable valves seem to vary from ~$40-80 and are easy to hide/protect in the frame rail, under the cab.
Good Luck!
Kent
I have seen many vehicles that use a residual valve on the front, with a "T" to each wheel, and an adjustable valve under the body with the residual valve going to the back drums. (BTW, I've read that the residual valves are not needed if you use a firewall mounted MC) This is usually a very "clean" looking install. I've not driven one of these set-ups, so can't comment on the deletion of the delay valve, but I know it's been done that way. The delay is supposed to let the back drums "catch up" to the front discs and reduce the "nose dive".
The adjustable valves seem to vary from ~$40-80 and are easy to hide/protect in the frame rail, under the cab.
Good Luck!
Kent
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Seattle WA.
If you are using an adjustable type proportioning valve You my also need to install a metering valve. On the front disc brakes to keep them from coming on to soon and causing the front end to dip and the disc pads to wear too fast. If you are going with the combo valve like the factory used it's built in. I did the disc conversion on my 51 and installed the residual valves and adjustable proportioning valve. I have it setup using manual non-power M/C, and as of yet haven't installed the metering valve. I seems to stop ok without it so far.
Hope this helps
Rod
Hope this helps
Rod
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Santa Clarita
I did the disc conversion and used only the proportioning valve to the rear drums. Since my MC is mounted on the firewall, I was told I don't need the residual valves. By the way, you had the lbs mixed up. The 2 lb is for the disc up front and the 10 lb is the drum in the rear. My brakes work fine without the residual. It did take some adjusting to get the rear brakes adjusted with the proportioning valve. I mounted mine on the frame rail under the cab. I've also seem people install them up in the engine compartment for easy access to adjustment. But then again, once it's adjusted you shouldn't have to mess with it.
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I already ordered the residual valves from Summit.......so if they aren't really needed - too late. That's o.k. though, they're only $17.00 each and they are shiney and anodized. RMF like shiney and anodized! 
These suckers have 1/8" inlet and outlet fittings. Does that mean it would be pointless to run larger lines like 3/16 or 1/4 inch since they would need to be stepped down in the inlet and up on the outlet?
Regarding have the psi's reversed.....yah I was going from memory when I typed my original note (and yes Mr.4spd - they say the memory is the first thing to go)
Thanks,
These suckers have 1/8" inlet and outlet fittings. Does that mean it would be pointless to run larger lines like 3/16 or 1/4 inch since they would need to be stepped down in the inlet and up on the outlet?
Regarding have the psi's reversed.....yah I was going from memory when I typed my original note (and yes Mr.4spd - they say the memory is the first thing to go)
Thanks,
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From: Durham NC
There is really no advantage going to oversized lines unless you're going NASCAR racing with your truck. All the component passages are sized for std diameter line, you'd have to use reducers at every component. Defeats the purpose, increases costs, and gives more joints to leak be like using 3" pipe to hook up your kitchen faucet.
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