Flood ruined truck still good?
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Elder User
Joined: May 2004
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From: Danville, Pa
Flood ruined truck still good?
How much damage to a truck that was flooded to the top of the bed. My 79 was in a flood from Ivan and I want to know if I can save anything? The whole bottom end of the truck was rebuilt and so was the c6 auto. thanks, -dave
Senior User
Joined: May 2003
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From: Cedar Falls, IA
As long as you go through the axles, engine and transmission, the rest is just cleaning with a hose and shampoo!
Make sure you get the carpet dried really well or it will mildew and need replacing. Electrical typically will dry out, but can be hurried along with WD40.
Good luck!
John
Make sure you get the carpet dried really well or it will mildew and need replacing. Electrical typically will dry out, but can be hurried along with WD40.
Good luck!
John
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,439
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From: Spokane WA
if a the water was above the axle vents for any length of time, the axles could have water in them.
change the engine oil
repack the bearings if it was salt water
Water kills automatic transmissions, if it set in water for a while I'd have it flushed right away.
change the engine oil
repack the bearings if it was salt water
Water kills automatic transmissions, if it set in water for a while I'd have it flushed right away.
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Elder User
Joined: May 2004
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From: Danville, Pa
Actually there is no carpet so i don't have to worry. the windows are down and it is pretty dried out. however the valve covers were off so im sure the engine is full of water. What should I do once I drain all the water out... to prevent the engine from seizing. lucky for me it was clean fresh water. not even much dirt. How do i flush the tranny out?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,057
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From: gravel road ONTARIO
If the water was up to the top of the bed, all fluids should be drained, Brake fluid should be ok but it wouldn't be a bad idea to check reservoir for rust, if so you better bleed them!
Drop C6 pan like a service, unless you've already started engine and then you'll need to drain the torque converter. If its a 250/350 pop your axles and remove diff cover, If its a 100/150 I'd recomend drill and tap hole in bottom of housing to fit 1/8 NPT plug drain/refill, You may have to do this a few times to get all the water out. Engine put inCHEAP new oil and filter add 1litre of ATF run it until hot, try not to idle to long, Drain and refill again w/new oil. I'd probably pull front wheel bearings and repack. If you've got front diff. same as rear.
I had to do this after my truck sank in soft river bottom up to door handles, I didn't rush back to get it unstuck because it was on my own farm. After all these things were done , I had no problems afterwards.
My truck sat underwater for almost 2 days.
Good Luck, It could have been worse.
Drop C6 pan like a service, unless you've already started engine and then you'll need to drain the torque converter. If its a 250/350 pop your axles and remove diff cover, If its a 100/150 I'd recomend drill and tap hole in bottom of housing to fit 1/8 NPT plug drain/refill, You may have to do this a few times to get all the water out. Engine put inCHEAP new oil and filter add 1litre of ATF run it until hot, try not to idle to long, Drain and refill again w/new oil. I'd probably pull front wheel bearings and repack. If you've got front diff. same as rear.
I had to do this after my truck sank in soft river bottom up to door handles, I didn't rush back to get it unstuck because it was on my own farm. After all these things were done , I had no problems afterwards.
My truck sat underwater for almost 2 days.
Good Luck, It could have been worse.
Elder User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 553
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From: Ont. Can.
LilDuke : Looks like you have all the advice you need to get you cleaned up .
There however is no need to drill and tap the diffs,. a grease gun with the proper sice neoprene tubing to fit through your filler or drain plug will totally evacuate the diffs. do them a couple of times rollong the gears over in between
sucking them out each time .
As someone said WD-40 or LPS will displace all the moisture from the wiring and make sure the switches and all components get a good bath . A hair dryer after that will also speed things up .
I took mine swimming twice when it was a younger truck , once to the top of the windows , just the roof showing with my partner and myself sitting on it when the tow arrived .
Sorry to hear that those damb storms are damaging perfectly good Fords as well as all the rest of the havoc they bring :
There however is no need to drill and tap the diffs,. a grease gun with the proper sice neoprene tubing to fit through your filler or drain plug will totally evacuate the diffs. do them a couple of times rollong the gears over in between
sucking them out each time .
As someone said WD-40 or LPS will displace all the moisture from the wiring and make sure the switches and all components get a good bath . A hair dryer after that will also speed things up .
I took mine swimming twice when it was a younger truck , once to the top of the windows , just the roof showing with my partner and myself sitting on it when the tow arrived .
Sorry to hear that those damb storms are damaging perfectly good Fords as well as all the rest of the havoc they bring :
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From: Franklin, GA
Before you ever turn the engine over the first time, you'd better remove all the spark plugs! If any of the cylinders are full of water, it ain't gonna compress and something is going to break. Compressed air is good for speeding up drying out the electricals. Once all the tranny and engine fluids are drained and replaced (including power steering), turn the engine over with the starter a few times with the plugs out to pump the water out of the cylinders. Then use a Mighty Vac with a length of hose attached to double check that all the water is removed from each cylinder. Then it will be safe to install new plugs and attempt a start.
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Elder User
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From: Danville, Pa
Well what this is all about is I have a chance to buy a 79 ranger 2x4 that was caught in a flood. I am going to take that and my other 79 4x4 and combine them to make a nice restomod truck. What I was really concerned about is weather the engine is still useable or if I need to get a new one. I am going to use the rest of my powertrain and axles but the I6 I have now is tired and I was looking for more get up and tow. Also I want to use the 2x4 frame because it is rust free and all the mounts are in good shape. Is there anything specific I need to know to swap 4x under a 2x frame? Thanks -Dave
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From: where the deer and antelo
Originally Posted by LilDuke
Also I want to use the 2x4 frame because it is rust free and all the mounts are in good shape. Is there anything specific I need to know to swap 4x under a 2x frame? Thanks -Dave
Read the threads on switching to four wheel drive. I think you will find switching a 2x to 4x can be done, but alot of work.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,249
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From: Rockport, WA
Where I live, the floods are caused by rivers. If a rig gets flooded in that silty water and the fine silt gets into things, you may experience very short bearing life and other headaches. Pay attetention to anything that's lubed in any way or has a bearing surface.
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