Brake pedal goes all the way down
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Brake pedal goes all the way down
Brake pedal on my 93 Ranger, 5 Spd, 2 WD went limp yesterday while driving on the freeway. I could stop my truck but the braking distance had increased. Also I could smell something burning near my rear wheel wells when I reached home. I had my front discs replaced a couple of months back. I was told that the rear drums had nearly worn off.
I am thinking that the problem might be worn off rear drums, but I am not sure. Could there be a leak in the braking circuit?. How diffuclt is it to replace the rear drums. I have the Haynes manual and it looks pretty straightforward job.
Any suggestions will be helpful.
Thanks in advance.
Hitech
I am thinking that the problem might be worn off rear drums, but I am not sure. Could there be a leak in the braking circuit?. How diffuclt is it to replace the rear drums. I have the Haynes manual and it looks pretty straightforward job.
Any suggestions will be helpful.
Thanks in advance.
Hitech
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,436
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From: Virginia
Now maybe this is different on the Rangers, but my alter-ego lives in the Acura/Honda world and a sinking brake pedal ment impending doom for your MC. Possible booster problems too. A leak is another possible situation, but I would check the fluid levels to see if you are low. Then inspect the lines for signs of leaks. In some of my older cars if you blew the rear brake piston (the thing that spreads the shoes) it would lead all over the drum. BE CAREFUL, brake fluid will ruin paint.
If it was just worn drums, I wouldn't think there is going to be that significant change. The front brakes do 75% of the work. Don't do anything untill you pull the rear tires and smack the rear drums off to inspect for yourself. Do not inhale the dust, it is very bad for your lungs.
Welcome to FTE!
If it was just worn drums, I wouldn't think there is going to be that significant change. The front brakes do 75% of the work. Don't do anything untill you pull the rear tires and smack the rear drums off to inspect for yourself. Do not inhale the dust, it is very bad for your lungs.
Welcome to FTE!
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G2IC_Wraith
It feels more like a spongy brake pedal, but the stopping distance is definitely increased. The brake fluid levels are allright, so what might be the problem.
If the master cylinder is the problem, how diffcult wouldit be to replace.
Thanks in advance.
Hitech
It feels more like a spongy brake pedal, but the stopping distance is definitely increased. The brake fluid levels are allright, so what might be the problem.
If the master cylinder is the problem, how diffcult wouldit be to replace.
Thanks in advance.
Hitech
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Joined: Jun 2004
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Not hard at all my friend. I don't know much about your ranger but I'm gonna guess that its like mine. The MC is what you put the brake fluid into. 2 bolts and 2 hydraulic lines need to come off and vualla! its off. Reverse procedure to replace it.
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bench bleed?
is that just another name for bleeding the brakes
mechanically challenged (automotively)
is that just another name for bleeding the brakes
mechanically challenged (automotively)
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Virginia
Originally Posted by thecannibal
Not hard at all my friend. I don't know much about your ranger but I'm gonna guess that its like mine. The MC is what you put the brake fluid into. 2 bolts and 2 hydraulic lines need to come off and vualla! its off. Reverse procedure to replace it.
MC change time ~ 1 beer (30min)
Bleeding brakes after ~ 6 beers (can be a few hours)
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From: Eastern WA
Bench bleed means you bleed the MC on the bench in a vise or on the vehicle before hooking up the brake lines and remove air from it. If all goes well, you don't have to bleed the entire brake system. After the MC is blead on the bench, and if you're lucky, you loosely hook up the brake lines, have a helper slowly press down on the brake pedal, loosen the lines a bit, and before the pedal is to the floor tighten the line.
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Originally Posted by CowboyBilly9Mile
Bench bleed means you bleed the MC on the bench in a vise or on the vehicle before hooking up the brake lines and remove air from it. If all goes well, you don't have to bleed the entire brake system. After the MC is blead on the bench, and if you're lucky, you loosely hook up the brake lines, have a helper slowly press down on the brake pedal, loosen the lines a bit, and before the pedal is to the floor tighten the line.
(thanks)
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