Help and suggestions on dealing with bed
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Postmaster
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From: Southern Oregon
Help and suggestions on dealing with bed
It is about time for me to start dealing with my 46 PU bed. It has what I think is the original metal floor over wood. What is the best way to get the metal flloor out.? It looks like it is bolted at the front, and maybe riveted along the sides. The side of the floor to the vertical bed panel looks very tight and it might be soldered as well as riveted. I really can't tell how the back is secured.
Once the metal is removed I need to replace the wood and metal runners. I know you can buy replacements, but have been thinking about other options: 1. Hardboard Plywood overlaid with stainless runners 2. Formica covered wood product in color code with truck, using stainless runners 3. Manmade 75 year decking milled to specifications of oak wood pieces and stainless.
Anyone have experience with some methods other than over the counter to deal with the bed floor?
Once the metal is removed I need to replace the wood and metal runners. I know you can buy replacements, but have been thinking about other options: 1. Hardboard Plywood overlaid with stainless runners 2. Formica covered wood product in color code with truck, using stainless runners 3. Manmade 75 year decking milled to specifications of oak wood pieces and stainless.
Anyone have experience with some methods other than over the counter to deal with the bed floor?
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From: Orange County, CA
The metal floor is welded to the bed sides...I used a chisel to break the welds on one of my '46's a few years ago. In fact, I believe that all the metal is welded to the bed itself. The bed wood under the bed is just floating, no skid strips between them, just the boards. I have seen various options when it comes to bed floors. You could go with a kit that has everything you need to replace the metal bed floor with wood boards (usually oak or something) and use the skid strips between them. I have also seen a few kits that use aluminum panels instead of the wood boards. On the Mutt truck I was going to replace the old bed floor with a replacement wood kit. On the other truck, not sure, bed metal isn't in bad shape, I may just have it coated or something so I can use it to haul stuff. Most trucks just have the wood board kits...not all that bad looking.
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Postmaster
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From: Southern Oregon
Yeah, I used to think that also, but somehow learned that the originals had a metal sheet metal floor over wood slats. I could be wrong. My metal floor covering besides being beat up, is a pressed sheet of metal with the profile of the metal runners you are used to pressed into the metal. It has a narrow right angle upward bend at the front and sides. Those are the attachment surfaces to the front and side of the bed.
Mike
Mike
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From: Southern Oregon
Help and suggestions on dealing with bed
Thanks for the verification Clayton and the help Gary. Should begin chiseling away soon. Sounds like it will be another exercise of patience. Do you remember where you saw the aluminum board replacements? That sounds interesting.
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From: Orange County, CA
I'll look try to get teh info on the alum boards. I'll post my findings ASAP. It's not all that bad to get the spot welds broken out...just a slow and tedious process.
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On my '46 I am planning on using a piece of marine grade plywood. I will give it a coat of two-part epoxy resin (not polyester) top and bottom, install stainless flush mount tie down hooks in the corners, and then take it down to my local Rhinolining dealer and have the entire inside of the box Rhinolined. By the way, the inside dimensions of the box are just a little over 49" so that means a standard piece of 4 x 8 plywood will fall about 1/2 inch short on both sides. I plan to either rip a couple of 1/2" strips and fasten these to the edges of the plywood or spring for some oversized plywood - they make it in 5 foot wide widths. Marine plywood is rather pricey, but compared to the price of a hardwood replacement kit, stainless strips and stainless fasteners (about $800) I am sure I can do the whole job for hundreds less.
Likewise for the rigid tonneau cover on the market - close to $2 grand. I will be fabricating my own.
Likewise for the rigid tonneau cover on the market - close to $2 grand. I will be fabricating my own.
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My dad gave me the idea of using the pressure treated lumber as a replacement to the oak bed planks.
I've only started to mess with this idea but so far all I know is that the wood, because it comes wet, must be dried carefully so that it stays flat and striaght and also some of the pressure treated wood bleeds sap after being out in the sun a while so you will need to let it soak up some sun before sanding and finishing. I aslo noticed longer the wood is in the sun the darker the wood gets.
I haven't gotten further than that becasue I can't decide whether to butt the edges up to each other or to put in stainless steel strips.
I've only started to mess with this idea but so far all I know is that the wood, because it comes wet, must be dried carefully so that it stays flat and striaght and also some of the pressure treated wood bleeds sap after being out in the sun a while so you will need to let it soak up some sun before sanding and finishing. I aslo noticed longer the wood is in the sun the darker the wood gets.
I haven't gotten further than that becasue I can't decide whether to butt the edges up to each other or to put in stainless steel strips.
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From: Southern Oregon
I am leaning toward the plywood approach. There are two plywood manufacturers here so they should have what you are talking about Frenchtown. Do you know what thickness you are going to use, 3/4 7/8 or 1 inch? I like the oak and stainless replacements just fine, but need to get this truck on the road without spending too much more $.
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Postmaster
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From: Southern Oregon
Yesterday I attacked my bed floor. Tried using a chisel to break the spot welds of the metal floor to sides, but they were not wanting to give. I was afraid that the use of more force would damage the side panels. Ended up using about every type of rotary grinder I have, and finally got it out. Ford put that bed together not wanting it to be taken apart!
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