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Any tips on an easy way to flush brake fluid? Do I need any special equipment? I have several vehicles due and would like to do it myself. I had one done at the dealer last year and it cost $225.
I'm thinking just like bleeding brakes; open the furthest bleed valve and pump fluid through with the brake pedal until it's clear; of course, keeping the reservoir full and not letting air in the system.
I use a pneumatic brake bleeder with automatic reservoir refilled from harbor freight that works well for me.
Suck out the top 2/3 -3/4 of the reservoir and top off with fresh fluid. Dont suck it dry as you don’t want to get air in the system.
Based on the location of the master cylinder you work from the farthest wheel to the closest wheel until all the old fluid is flushed from the system. I always make a pass the old fashioned way just to be 100% sure there is no air.
Whatever you do do not let the reservoir run dry.
a few days prior to the job give the bleeders a squirt of penetrating oil.
Motiv pressure bleeder here as well. I'm actually getting ready to use it for the first time tomorrow as the brake fluid I ordered arrived today. If you're needing Dot 4 LV, Rockauto had the best price for Motorcraft PM20 at $8.35/quart when I was shopping.
If you don't have air in the system, it isn't as vital to start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder. You're just doing a fluid exchange. It is quite satisfying to watch the dark coffee colored fluid change to light yellow.
If you don't have air in the system, it isn't as vital to start with the caliper farthest from the master cylinder. You're just doing a fluid exchange. It is quite satisfying to watch the dark coffee colored fluid change to light yellow.
Best practice is to always start with the caliper farthest away.
As easy to do it that way as not.
Agree with the above. I just flushed mine last month and it was a breeze. I've tried not only the pressure bleeder seen above, but also using a Mityvac at the caliper to "suck" the fluid down. But I found the Mityvac sucks too much air through the bleeder screw threads and it looks like you're getting tons of air (you are), which makes it impossible to ensure all air has been purged, and more difficult to see when you've got clean fluid at the caliper as well. Pressure only for me.
Best practice is to always start with the caliper farthest away.
As easy to do it that way as not.
No question. Stick with a pattern that works. My comment was directed at calming the nerves of those who haven't done this much. Giving them one less thing to fret about.
How much fluid should I have on hand to flush a long bed, crew cab SD?
2-3 quarts was the most common search result I found. However, most trucks are crewcab short beds, so I ordered 4 quarts just to be safe for my F450.
Incidentally, PM20 is packaged 4qts to a box.
This is something I should probably do sometime in the future... but I am one of those that has never done it so am nervous about doing it... the last thing I need to do is mess up the brakes!
My Motive brake bleeder is about 10 years old. It still works great. The seals and plastic have not been affected by the brake fluid . The pressure vessel is very thick plastic and easily holds 25psi. Inferior products will work off the shelf but will they last for the lifetime of your vehicle ownership?
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