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Installed a new pitman arm and rebuilt the drag link on Henry.
With everything disconnected, I tried moving the pitman arm by hand and couldn’t move it. Thinking the steering box was overtightened by the previous owner to take out play. I backed the adjustment off a bit until I had some movement, then snugged it back down to where I can just barely feel any play at the pitman arm.
Also noticed there were no caster shims installed. I’ve got 4° shims on order.
Did a quick toe check and found about 3/4” toe-in. Remeasured to be sure because it seemed way off. I know a tape measure isn’t ideal for fine adjustment, but it’s definitely not close. Planning to bring that back closer to spec.
For the caster shims—there’s no extra thread on the front U-bolts as it sits now. Debating whether to:
Replace with longer U-bolts
Or pull the second leaf to gain a little room
Looks like I can get the spring pack apart if I can get the center bolt out, but it may need to be cut.
Looking for input:
Should the pitman arm move by hand with the linkage disconnected?
Anyone run into issues pulling a leaf just to fit shims?
Or is this just a “buy longer U-bolts and be done”
The final steering box mesh adjustment should be between 1/2 to 1 1/2 pounds or 1 and 2 pounds (depending upon source) measured by a using a scale measuring the pull required at the rim of the wheel.
Henry would initially have 8 leafs and 21C-5455 spring clips (U-bolts) that have 1.75" inside width, 3.30" inches tall, and 1.1" of 9/16-18 threads. Obviously, you can always find u-bolt that meets your needs (and this is what I would personally do).
Oh boy… now that I know there’s actually a spec, I had to go dig out the shop manual and read through the procedure. Looks like I’ll be pulling the drag link back off again.
Not the end of the world—better to set it up right now than chase steering issues later. At least round two should go a lot quicker.
Going to have to find my trigger pull gauge, not sure I have anything that can measure 8-12 ounces pull force accurately.
Last edited by Christopher2; Apr 5, 2026 at 07:43 PM.
I used a jar of water weighing the correct amount to check the pull on the steering wheel.
The leaf pack does not need to come apart, the shim goes under the leaf pack. Should be a clearance hole for the leaf pack bolt. The stock shim is quite thin. The aftermarket may be thicker. Be sure to orient the shim correctly !
I sure dont recall my original u-bolts being that short.
I used a jar of water weighing the correct amount to check the pull on the steering wheel.
The leaf pack does not need to come apart, the shim goes under the leaf pack. Should be a clearance hole for the leaf pack bolt. The stock shim is quite thin. The aftermarket may be thicker. Be sure to orient the shim correctly !
I sure dont recall my original u-bolts being that short.
I would add to this that if the wedge/shim is too thick the bolthead from the leaf pack may not be long enough to pass through it into the axle to ensure alignment. I had to replace the bolt with an aftermarket with a taller head.
ETA: If you take the leaf pack bolt out, be sure to clamp the springs first. There may or may not be tension in them. You can't be too careful, with angry springs.
Last edited by EffieTrucker; Apr 7, 2026 at 11:45 AM.
You definitely need new u-bolts, I would not trust those with no exposed thread. As far as removing a spring, that would be up to you on the trucks use and current ride. It will obviously lower the truck and soften the ride if you remove a spring. As far as the Pittman arm turning at the arm, your one strong son of gun if you turn it from there (boxes adjusted correctly), as there is no mechanical advantage with the short arm compared to the steering wheel.
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