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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

53 F100 215 I6 Main Bearing Help

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Old Apr 3, 2026 | 10:49 AM
  #1  
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53 F100 215 I6 Main Bearing Help

Finally got back to working on the truck and have hit the wall concerning the engine main bearings. Purchased a set of Sealed Power 4056M, but he set did not have the correct rear bearing that is a 1/4" wider than the other two intermediate bearings. My internet and phone search have come up empty. Contacted all the current part houses (Auto Zone, Napa etc.), Dennis Carpenter, Parts Geek, The Green Sales Company (which is now closed), Shoe Box, Obsolete Ford, and EGGE (who had one set of .001 under). I do not know where else to turn, so please help me out with any input you may have at this time. Thanks in advance........
 
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Old Apr 3, 2026 | 11:16 AM
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What size are you looking for? Which standard, or how much under?

Here are two different sizes standard:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/185043586276

https://www.ebay.com/itm/174216312331
 
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Old Apr 3, 2026 | 11:43 AM
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I am a rookie at this. Did not realize their different sizes, what does the size refer to? Looking for standard bearings.
 

Last edited by South40; Apr 3, 2026 at 11:45 AM.
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Old Apr 3, 2026 | 11:45 AM
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Depends on whether crank was cut to true up journals. You may have to measure the crank journals and compare with standard journal sizes. Im guessing the journals were cut at some point. Rings and bearings were available in .001-.002 over or under for in frame overhauls. Used to be common. It seems the practice is to go .010 or .020 to clean the journal surfaces. Try Southside Obsolete, Dennis Carpenter NOS, or Chucks Trucks.

some large scale engine rebuilders would place a tag on the block to advertise the the oversize bore and rod and main journal cuts.
 

Last edited by 1952henry; Apr 3, 2026 at 11:58 AM.
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Old Apr 3, 2026 | 12:48 PM
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Just checked crankshaft journals and it looks like I have a virgin crankshaft. All I have to measure with is a vernier caliper, but all four journals measured between 2.4980 / 2.4989. So, knowing that the journals have not been turned. What determines if I need the red (G) or blue (H) standard bearings shown in the thread above? Also, will I be safe to procure a set of bearings from Sealed Power (SEP-4056M) and just throw away the rear bearing from the set. While utilizing one of the rear bearings shown in thread above?
 
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Old Apr 3, 2026 | 12:48 PM
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South40, if you are new to all this, it may be best to have your engine rebuilder obtain the parts to ensure they are the correct sizes for what they will be machining the components for exact fitment within thousandths of an inch. If you are home gaming this while not aware that journals are often turned to be trued up (and thus requiring undersized bearings), I would reconsider trying to home game this without experienced supervision and oversight.

Standard bearings - that refers to the factory default size (0.000 undersized). Unfortunately, the 215/223 family had atleast two standard sizes:



If your journals are 2.4980 / 2.4989, that seems to be ~.010 undersized. That is not to say you should blindly use .010 bearings (or blindly use any other size bearings).
 

Last edited by bmoran4; Apr 3, 2026 at 01:11 PM.
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Old Apr 3, 2026 | 12:53 PM
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If you still have your original bearing shells, check the back side. If they are original size , they should be no markings, other than manufacturer. If they are not original size, it will be stamped on them.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2026 | 12:58 PM
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A couple examples… the smaller rod bearing is a standard size from my flathead. The larger is a main bearing from a 428 I stripped for a neighbor. You can see the .010 on the 428 bearing. Pistons are also stamped with oversize. The 428 pistons were .030 OS.
 

Last edited by 1952henry; Apr 3, 2026 at 01:03 PM.
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Old Apr 3, 2026 | 01:56 PM
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The engine was running when I pulled to clean and paint. but there were tons of grime because the oil pan, valve cover, push rod cover and rear main seal had been leaking for years apparently. Ended up having to pull the crankshaft to replace the rear seal (original rope seal) and it did not give up easily. Thought was while we are this far into it why not replace the main and connecting bearings. I am tied up with family things until Monday at which I will remove a couple of bearings and investigate the back side. Knowing what I know, I expect these to be original bearings. I do not believe this engine has ever been broken into before. I will post my findings as soon as possible. Thanks for the input and guidance so far.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2026 | 09:03 AM
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You can plastigage the clearance of the old bearings and see how worn they are. If no more than .002" and look good, leave them alone. For sure plastigage new ones, very important not to cause major damage!
 
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