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Well looks like I have to replace the T/S switch again. Replaced it back in August 2025 when I rebuilt steering column with a Dennis Carpenter switch C9TZ-13341-C from National Parts Depot. Worked great for a little while, then the self cancel tabs broke, wasn't too big a deal as long as the switch kept working. Now I have no power coming out from the orange-blue stripe wire which supplies the right side brake and T/S. Is there a better option for switches? I see Ford new old stock switches are quite pricey on Ebay?
Last edited by 66Classic96; Apr 2, 2026 at 06:06 PM.
66classic96,
Will be watching as I need to do this on the new to me 66 also. Take some good pictures for me please. I bought the canceling plastic piece from Summit, and several other parts from LMC. Thanks for the link to Shee Mar too.
I contacted NPD to check and see if there was any kind of warranty on the T/S switch. I got an email today stating they would send out a new switch today and did not need the defective one back. Great customer service NPD.
I wish you luck, but gotta remind you: though you’re happy to receive a free replacement, you ARE putting back in the very same brand that previously failed you, lasting less than a year.
I put in an NOS Ford switch a two years ago and it’s working fine. I immediately sourced another off EBay to have a spare. Depending on how stored, even NOS switches can be no good, heat makes plastic brittle.
Were it me, I’d try either a known good entity : either Shee-Mar, or genuine Ford - this time around.
I wish you luck, but gotta remind you: though you’re happy to receive a free replacement, you ARE putting back in the very same brand that previously failed you, lasting less than a year.
I put in an NOS Ford switch a two years ago and it’s working fine. I immediately sourced another off EBay to have a spare. Depending on how stored, even NOS switches can be no good, heat makes plastic brittle.
Were it me, I’d try either a known good entity : either Shee-Mar, or genuine Ford - this time around.
Sounds like good advice. Ordered a Shee-Mar SM41F switch from Rock Auto. Thanks.
Last edited by 66Classic96; Apr 5, 2026 at 05:17 PM.
I went through the same problem about 10 years ago. One thing I observed was that there were 2 plastic arms/loops, on each side that provide spring resistance, on the cancelling arms. I used a jewelers saw and cut one on each side. It made it so that the turn signal would operate more easily, with less stress on the cancelling arms.
Replaced mine some years ago with the DC switch. Didn't last long either. Been bumping the switch off manually so long now I even do it when I'm driving a different vehicle. On the rare occasion I forget, I figger it's good practice since I'm getting to the age where driving with the perma signal is a requirement.
Good idea from John^^^
Replaced mine some years ago with the DC switch. Didn't last long either. Been bumping the switch off manually so long now I even do it when I'm driving a different vehicle. On the rare occasion I forget, I figger it's good practice since I'm getting to the age where driving with the perma signal is a requirement.
Good idea from John^^^🤣 Amen
Ok, this made me LMAO!! I'm the same way with my 66, got so used to it when I get in my other trucks it usually takes a few turns of turning my signal on for the opposite direction to think that Hey, I need to fix Shrek's turn signal chinga! Been a few yrs now LOL, but seeing this thread I'll be ordering a new one so it can sit on the seat next to me for another few months, then I might rplc it
But I do like the idea of it being good practice for the coming age where it's a requirement!! Heck, in my work truck I can't count the # of times I'm driving down the road wondering why folks are moving out of the way... then I realize I left my flashing strobes on
Originally Posted by AZSCAWPION
Replaced mine some years ago with the DC switch. Didn't last long either. Been bumping the switch off manually so long now I even do it when I'm driving a different vehicle. On the rare occasion I forget, I figger it's good practice since I'm getting to the age where driving with the perma signal is a requirement.
Good idea from John^^^
I worked for the cable company shortly after college (The Cable Guy) and we referred to ourselves as The Cable Police whenever we'd be driving around and forget that the strobes were on.
Well, some whimpering here, I remember when flashing lights were police, fire, or ambulance, so you paid attention . Now days they are on every dump truck, service truck, even the cable guy, so most folks don't pay no nevermind. At the end of my working days, retired in 2020 when the world was still normal, most our new drivers drove all day with either the beacon or a turn signal on all the time. I once went by a gas company job after dark, must have been about 30 trucks parked with yellow strobe lights going, it was intense ! you could not see anything, and...most folks do not even slow down. Rant over....sleep well folks!
I agree wit-ya, growing up, the only bright flashy's were on emergency vehicles, and as a voluteer Fireman, we had to get a "Blue Light" permit from the local LEO for our personal trucks to run flashies on the way to the station, came with a lot of restrictions, obviously, and we only had one dumbkoff, that of course couldn't follow the rules and he got his yanked, then he was asked to leave FD, def had some mental issues...
And yes, now every "work" truck seems to have them, and I have to say, unfortunately it's a necessity nowadays with all these idiots on there phone while driving I have watched SOO many people driving along, clueless and paying ZERO attn to the road, I have been on the side of the road, working, watching traffic, and observe 7 out of 10 cars drive by with their face looking down, and maybe 1 or 2 of them look up in time to then alter their direction of travel away from us, ugh! Way back when I first got out of the Marines in SoCal, I drove a Tow-truck for a while, wheel lift and flatbed types, after a couple of drivers (not my company thankfully) were hit, encountered a close call or, one where a drunk driver decided to do a Duke's of Hazard launch off a flatbed, slamming the car being loaded off the side, we were able to get the CHP to stage behind us for protection. for some reason, the yellow lightbars acted like a beacon/aiming point for drunks...
Sorry for hijack 66Classic
Originally Posted by rusty valley
Well, some whimpering here, I remember when flashing lights were police, fire, or ambulance, so you paid attention . Now days they are on every dump truck, service truck, even the cable guy, so most folks don't pay no nevermind. At the end of my working days, retired in 2020 when the world was still normal, most our new drivers drove all day with either the beacon or a turn signal on all the time. I once went by a gas company job after dark, must have been about 30 trucks parked with yellow strobe lights going, it was intense ! you could not see anything, and...most folks do not even slow down. Rant over....sleep well folks!
Well in the spirit of hijacking @66Classic96 's thread, I will add that last week I had to make a long drive down to lake Constance in the South of Germany, and ended up taking a new VW Touareg from the customer instead of my work van. Nice vehicle, but way to many bells and whistles... Every time I would enter a construction zone (something that seems to be about every 10 miles or so) the lanes would narrow, and often shift..and the Touareg would try to steer and fight me to keep me in a lane that wasn't necessarily there. Then all the flashing lights, and beeps every time I went above the posted speed limit.... The sad thing is, the only way I could find to turn off all the "Help" was to get out the "comfort mode" and put the car into "Eco mode". So that leaves me wanting to know...is the comfort mode suppose to drive for me, so that I can do other things?
I put in a TS switch from shee mar after getting a few bad ones elsewhere. It lasted 3-4 years before it too started failing. I ended up finding a new old stock, bolt on the column switch in the parts room at the shop I was at, think I paid $50 for it. It feels sturdy and well built. Plus I was able to locate it further from the steering wheel. I have a smaller aftermarket wheel that caused interference between the switchgear and my fingers.
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