When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 94 that was a manual from the factory. The transmission is an automatic. I have replaced the sensor on the rear axle, the computer, the transmission itself, the speedo, the rear brake housing and the bulb, the fluid is great its new too. When I drive I feel a clunk I guess and the vehicle rocks from from front to back. When I put it in drive or any other gear it rocks too. Something just isn't right. Any help appreciated.
Last edited by LiTTleREdz; Mar 5, 2026 at 08:03 AM.
Reason: Spelling
The transmission is an automatic. When I drive I feel a clunk I guess and the vehicle rocks from from front to back. When I put it in drive or any other gear it rocks too..
What automatic transmission, E4OD, AOD, C6?
When parked into drive, or while driving?
Rocks? please explain.
More info, engine? trans? what is ECM #, did you get a harness for that trans, and a MLPS also?
Originally Posted by wwhite
What automatic transmission, E4OD, AOD, C6?
When parked into drive, or while driving?
Rocks? please explain.
trans is a e40d, motor is the i6. I did not get a harness and we did get the mlps too. When i park it it rocks when i out it in drive or reverse it rocks kinda feels like so.ething is holding it back. When it shifts it rocks too. It isn't as bad when I first got it. The whole truck used to shake bad now it shakes a little and I hear a pop. When I got the new computer I gave the guy my Vin and he asked if I changed anything else from. The factory me nor the previous owner did gotta look back to find the ecm number.
It sounds like you’re describing a swap or repair involving the Ford E4OD behind a Ford inline-6 (300 I6), and now the truck rocks or jerks when going into Drive/Reverse and during shifts, sometimes with a pop. From what you wrote, a few things stand out.
1. Missing or incorrect wiring harness
You mentioned you didn’t get a harness but did install the MLPS (Manual Lever Position Sensor). On an E4OD this matters a lot because the transmission is electronically controlled by the ECM/PCM. If the wiring isn’t correct:
The computer may not know the gear position
Shift timing and line pressure can be wrong
It can cause hard engagements or rocking when shifting
If the harness is mismatched or partially wired, the transmission may default to high line pressure, which causes very hard shifts and jerks.
2. MLPS alignment
The MLPS must be perfectly aligned in Neutral during installation. If it’s slightly off:
The PCM thinks the truck is in a different gear
It can cause harsh engagement, popping, or rocking
The truck may slam into gear
Many E4OD issues after install are just misaligned MLPS sensors.
3. Wrong computer (ECM/PCM)
You said the computer guy asked if anything was changed. That’s important because:
E4OD trucks require a PCM programmed for E4OD
Some 300 I6 trucks originally had the C6 transmission
If the PCM calibration doesn’t match the transmission, shifts can be wrong.
Once you find the ECM/PCM number, that will help confirm if it's correct.
4. Engine / transmission mounts
The rocking and popping could also be mechanical:
Broken engine mount
Bad transmission mount
Loose crossmember
If the mount is torn, the engine twists when it engages gear, which feels like the whole truck rocking.
5. Driveline slack
Also check:
U-joints
Driveshaft play
Differential backlash
A bad U-joint can cause a clunk or pop when the transmission loads up.
6. Torque converter / line pressure
If the transmission is working but engagement is very hard, it might be:
Line pressure too high
Wrong EPC control from PCM
Sticking valve body
But wiring/PCM problems are more common right after swaps.
✅ Things I would check first (in order):
Confirm the PCM/ECM number matches a 300 I6 + E4OD truck
Verify MLPS alignment in Neutral
Check engine and transmission mounts
Inspect driveshaft U-joints
Confirm the E4OD wiring harness is correct
This kind of issue is actually pretty common on E4OD swaps.
Do you know if its a MassAir, or Speed Density, truck, do you know how to tell?
If its Speed Density, there's 4-5 ECM's that can work $200-350, range.
I hope you have junkyards near you, you'll need the correct harness(E4OD) for the correct ECM to tell it how to shift.
This is the pin outs E4OD has its own. Ford Fuel Injection
You should be able to find a stand alone E4OD controller
Speedway comes to mind
That might be easier than trying to find a Ford processor and good E4OD harness
It sounds like you’re describing a swap or repair involving the Ford E4OD behind a Ford inline-6 (300 I6), and now the truck rocks or jerks when going into Drive/Reverse and during shifts, sometimes with a pop. From what you wrote, a few things stand out.
1. Missing or incorrect wiring harness
You mentioned you didn’t get a harness but did install the MLPS (Manual Lever Position Sensor). On an E4OD this matters a lot because the transmission is electronically controlled by the ECM/PCM. If the wiring isn’t correct:
The computer may not know the gear position
Shift timing and line pressure can be wrong
It can cause hard engagements or rocking when shifting
If the harness is mismatched or partially wired, the transmission may default to high line pressure, which causes very hard shifts and jerks.
2. MLPS alignment
The MLPS must be perfectly aligned in Neutral during installation. If it’s slightly off:
The PCM thinks the truck is in a different gear
It can cause harsh engagement, popping, or rocking
The truck may slam into gear
Many E4OD issues after install are just misaligned MLPS sensors.
3. Wrong computer (ECM/PCM)
You said the computer guy asked if anything was changed. That’s important because:
E4OD trucks require a PCM programmed for E4OD
Some 300 I6 trucks originally had the C6 transmission
If the PCM calibration doesn’t match the transmission, shifts can be wrong.
Once you find the ECM/PCM number, that will help confirm if it's correct.
4. Engine / transmission mounts
The rocking and popping could also be mechanical:
Broken engine mount
Bad transmission mount
Loose crossmember
If the mount is torn, the engine twists when it engages gear, which feels like the whole truck rocking.
5. Driveline slack
Also check:
U-joints
Driveshaft play
Differential backlash
A bad U-joint can cause a clunk or pop when the transmission loads up.
6. Torque converter / line pressure
If the transmission is working but engagement is very hard, it might be:
Line pressure too high
Wrong EPC control from PCM
Sticking valve body
But wiring/PCM problems are more common right after swaps.
✅ Things I would check first (in order):
Confirm the PCM/ECM number matches a 300 I6 + E4OD truck
Verify MLPS alignment in Neutral
Check engine and transmission mounts
Inspect driveshaft U-joints
Confirm the E4OD wiring harness is correct
This kind of issue is actually pretty common on E4OD swaps.
Thanks for the reply! I have been real busy but I finally had time to check and I think it's my my neutral saftey switch the black wire is sticking out, and dirt was in the connector. Im also not sure if the wiring is correct in the first place. When i google it for nss wiring diagram it shows me a bunch. I know the 4.9l 2wd with a e4od was "rare" from the factory but how on gods green earth can i find the right diagram to put this switch in correct?
but how on gods green earth can i find the right diagram to put this switch in correct?
Buy a factory manual. I have one on a CD that I have purchased years ago. I suspect someone still has them.
I don't know, but typically, the factory does not change a lot to the wiring of a component. The wiring to the E4OD is probably real similar to all the E4OD's. Sure, the wiring colors may be different, but there is probably just one [maybe two] different switches.
Buy a factory manual. I have one on a CD that I have purchased years ago. I suspect someone still has them.
I don't know, but typically, the factory does not change a lot to the wiring of a component. The wiring to the E4OD is probably real similar to all the E4OD's. Sure, the wiring colors may be different, but there is probably just one [maybe two] different switches.
I have the original owners manual and the Hayes manual neither of which mention how to re pin the nss
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.