I recently installed a Quick 4 into my 2002 F250 Diesel with the 4R100 (stock transmission) and got it working. I want to create a tuning file that increases reliability and longevity of the transmission while towing up to 10k lbs - what should I change about the shift tuning to accomplish that? I understand that a lot of people increase line pressure, but is there a way to have my TCC lock up more frequently so it isn't slipping as much to reduce temps and wear? Should I be worried about TCC lockup at full throttle potentially damaging my transmission? (I'm probably sitting at 300-325hp from intake, exhaust, and Banks Power automind 2 programming).

 

Mechanically.
Transgo tugger kit w/ TransGo (4R100-LU)non-PWM (On/Off) lockup conversion.

 

I've got the Quick 2 controlling an E4OD that I swapped into my '79 Ford F350 with a 460. What I found when getting it all adjusted was that getting the shifts just right at very low speeds and low throttle positions was the greatest challenge and took the most time. As far as the TCC settings I found that a tiny change in throttle percentage and or minimum RPM really can be a big deal. Just a little too low and it'll lug the engine, too high and it wants to kick out too easy. The Quick 2 isn't as sophisticated as the Quick 4 so I have to use the same tune when driving or when I tow my trailer but overall I think that it works very well and the software was easy to use.

I don't know if all 4R100's used the PWM torque converter setup or not. But I think that you can eliminate the modulation in the controller to make it on/off. On my transmission the clutch coming on and off works just like having another gear that splits the shift between OD and direct. I built my transmission with a bunch of upgrades and I also used the Transgo Tugger kit.

 

The early '99s did have an on/off converter clutch. Late '99 and all subsequent 4R100s had PWM converter clutch control.

If you turn a PWM converter on without modulating the apply, you're not going to like it. It will SLAM the clutch on. The PWM system can be converted to an on/off system by changing a 0.250" diameter opening to a 0.030" orifice in the pump body.

 

All of these questions cannot really be answered unless others have used or know how to tun the Quick4 tuner. Ask the manufacturer to see what they recommend. I know the system comes with pre-programmed settings that are probably well sorted out. Maybe use one of those and work from that.

I have not used Quick4 but I looked into it if I could not get the stock computer to work to my liking. I am using the factory EEC-IV to tune my transmission and it took a lot of R&R and D&A to get it to my liking. I've got lots of items that were never designed to work together. Since you got a factory [not built] transmission it should work fairly well. If you like the shift quality, leave that alone. If you want it firmer, it should be easy to do with with the Quick4 tuning map.

If you think the shift timing needs to be up/down a bit, you should have the ability to do that. What is right? Load up the trailer and go on a real road test. Leave the wife at home. They tend not to be patient enough to handle the constant stops and cussing that normally happens during tuning. Make an adjustment, see what it does. Make small changes to see if it is in the direction you want to go. Whatever does not work, you can always change it back.

With my converter tuning, I did not like that the converter was turned off when the throttle was closed. I suspect that Ford's idea was to allow the vehicle to coast [vs being held back] for better MPG. Just a guess on my part. When I am towing, I'm not looking for max MPG and usually when I get off the throttle, I want to slow down. I changed that setting so the converter does not unlock when I let off the gas.

I also did not like when I applied the brake pedal that the converter would turn off. Sometimes you need to tap the brake and it was just annoying to see the converter turn on and off. Like you, is it more wear/tear? I don't know but it's my truck and that is what I did. So now, I can get off the gas, and tap the brakes without the converter cycling on and off. Yes, the converter has to shut off before you get to a stop, there is a minimum RPM that can be set.

I know the Quick4 has the ability to store a code if the converter slips or not. I do not know if it has a limp home feature like Ford does. I was able to tune my factory ECU to ignore 628. Part of all my tuning was I would get code 628 and the transmission would go into limp home [high line pressure]. With all the extra clutches and high holding power of the clutch material, I was afraid something was going to break during a shift. It was down right scary to drive in limp home mode. After several converters [I have a really good professional relationship with my converter builder] I have found all of the converters never had the signs of excessive slipping. I came to the conclusion that the software was just too sensitive. Once I resolved the 628 code tuning, I have not had another limp home issue.

That is about all I did with mine. I did change some of the converter timing because I felt that it should turn on a bit later. You know, a hundred RPM more would make the engine feel like it's lugging. It's your truck, you can probably dial it in with your load and terrain better than my recommendations.