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Hi all! As the title says, I installed a cheap eBay e-fuel kit on my 97 and can't for the life of me get the banjo fitting to seal off. Tried the soft aluminum washers that came in the kit, leaked a lot. Put the original copper washers back in after heating them till the color changed (an old trick we used often on copper seals in hydraulic repair) and have it down to a slow drip. I'm not impressed with the adapter as it just attached to the banjo, no support at all.
Suggestions on a different adapter before I go my own way and just replace the banjo with a T and hoses to the heads? Also, what size are the threads into the heads?
Last edited by mechmagcn; Feb 15, 2026 at 03:35 PM.
I'm not sure if my cheap banjo adapter leaks because I'm leaking a lot of oil. That being said, I plan on replacing the stock fuel lines at some point. As luck would have it, @NJ_Phil just went through this: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...onversion.html
I'm not sure if my cheap banjo adapter leaks because I'm leaking a lot of oil. That being said, I plan on replacing the stock fuel lines at some point. As luck would have it, @NJ_Phil just went through this: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...onversion.html
Thank you! That's very similar to what I had in mind.
Realized today that the exhaust is going to have to come off of the back of the engine to change the fittings in the heads, so I ordered the banjo adapter bag from Marty's. Let's see if I can get this one to stop leaking.
Realized today that the exhaust is going to have to come off of the back of the engine to change the fittings in the heads, so I ordered the banjo adapter bag from Marty's. Let's see if I can get this one to stop leaking.
Be very careful removing and installing those, the casting is apparently fairly thin there and prone to cracking probably more from over tightening the fittings. I did see someone on YT do it with turbo and up pipes installed, but I think he said it took him a couple of days.
The only way that I could see to remove the fitting from the left head would be either break or cut it, then use an ease-out to remove the threaded part, there's no way that the 90° elbow would clear the exhaust flange. The RH would take a contortionist to get past the downpipe..
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