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I've had enough of this insane fuel rail feed hardline
Whoever designed this thing should be...... sent a strongly worded letter.
Rubber washers sealing the head connection, copper crush washers, 1lb banjo bolt, all surfaces need to be perfect, etc... WTF?.
It's a freakin' money pit at this point and I've already spent too much on this crap setup.
Doing the turbo, I decided to replace the line, now the Banjo bolt and washers leak no matter how tight I get it and how polished the surfaces are. Already into it for over $300 and not spending another dime on this.
I'm sure people have done AN lines and I've got plenty of it from leftover projects and thinking about a simple 6AN-4AN Y, some 4AN SS jacketed PTFE hose and 1/8" NPT fittings to the heads.
Can anyone provide any insight on which fittings to use for the heads? Looks like a straight 1/8" NPT x 4AN male fitting for the right head attached to a 45 degree 4AN hose end. The left head gets a 90 degree 1/8 NPT x 4AN male fitting for the left side and a 45 degree 4AN hose end.
The turbo is out and I'm not sure about clearances and hope someone has already done this. Marty's sells the kit but I don't want rubber hose and push on fittings in the valley.
I just had my turbo out, noticed fuel leaks around the pump, replaced it with OEM and just noticed diesel still in the valley. I rebuilt the bowl about 4 years ago and am now just saving up for Marty’s kit.
Just going to cut my losses at this point and just sell that crap on FB marketplace.
Go with 6an PTFE SS jacketed hose. Brass 1/8 male to female adapter on the right head cause I'm too cheap to go fully stainless and don't want to screw aluminum into the heads. Then a 6an 45 hose end into that or a brass 45 depending on best clearance to keep it away from the turbo. I see the Marty's kit recommends an asbestos hose over that area with their setup but I think there stuff is big and bulky, never mind the rubber hoses, and I can get it further away from the turbo where heat won't be a problem. Left side gets a brass 1/8 6an 90 into the head, then a 6an 45 hose end
Both hoses go to a 6an Y and right to the pump. Might ghetto up a nice bracket to hold the Y or just let it hang in the valley.
Prolly do all that for the cost of a new banjo bold and crush washers
Agree completely. I'm also in a PSD Facebook group and can't believe how much people hated on me for "not understanding" how how things work or replied with stupid **** that had nothing to do with my question. Glad I found you guys on this forum
There's always the 99-03 fuel setup, and you have a factory fuel bowl wich works great on the newer trucks.
I have that set up in my 95, I had all the parts laying around so basically a free set up minus fuel pump. Parts needed was fuel bowl, fuel lines from bowl to heads along with fittings, fuel lines from cross member to fuel bowl. The only thing is you will have to figure out how to mount the fuel bowl to the factory timing cover as the 99-03 7.3 are different.
Got rid of the fuel bowl and OEM pump. So much crap in that valley and glad it's gone.
Now thinking about putting in a sump kit in both tanks, just for the sup[ply lines and use the existing return line.
Still fighting a little air getting into the lines, changed the fittings on the selector but still not 100%. It's a full return system and not dead headed like SD so don't think it's a major issue. I think lowering the suction line so it's below the pump and flodded suction is the way to go but it might be the valve
EDIT-> Used cheap Amazon filter heads but checked for leaks on the suction side twice and everything is tight.
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