2010 Expedition 5.4 3v, 213k miles

I am in the process of replacing a phaser that has blown up on me and I discovered the damage it had done to my passenger side camshaft around the area that the phaser pin sits in. I have never gone through the break in process on anything before and don't want to mess anything up. Since I am replacing the camshaft, how do I break it in? I've heard mixed things on whether or not to use a special oil with a high amount of zinc/zddp. I plan on using an oem cam, I know this isn't something to cheap out on.

I'm doing a full timing job while I'm at it along with a melling m360hv oil pump. I have never gone through the break in process on anything before and don't want to mess anything up long term.

TLDR: How do I break in a new camshaft on a 5.4 3v?

 

I won't tell you not to worry about it, but here are some things to consider:

The zinc/zddp oil was primarily targeted to old school engines with flat-tappet cams for break-in.
Most of the break-in oils I have seen do include zinc/zddp so it won't hurt.
The entire valve train in the 3v engines is low friction roller set-up so it doesn't have as many friction points as many older engines did.
The biggest area for friction is the cam caps since there is no bearing there.

What would I do if it was mine?
I would use some quality assembly lube on everything & make sure everything is lined up correctly & torqued properly.
If I wanted to overkill it, use the break-in oil & follow the time / interval recommendations on the bottle.
I don't really think the last step is necessary, but the only thing it will hurt is your wallet.
If you are ok with the cost, then go for it but the assembly lube is far more important IMO.

 

I appreciate your advice. I'll definitely use assembly lube, but I might not use any special break in oil. I didnt think about the lack of friction other than the cam caps/towers.

As far as the process goes, I've seen that you want to hold it at 2000-2500 rpms for about 30 minutes, let it cool, do it again for 10 minutes, change oil, drive normally (not super harsh) for about 500 miles with limited idling, change oil, and after that it's good to go. That was for generic roller cams. Is there anything I should do differently with this finicky 3v valvetrain and timing system?

 

Personally.... my recommendations would be to use all Ford / Motorcraft parts (aside from using a Melling High Volume oil pump).
Ford redesigned the roller followers & lash adjustment tensioners.
The simple explanation on the followers is the angle & size of the hole where the oil is fed up through the tensioners was changed to address the lack of oiling on the rollers.
It now angles the oil flow to the roller unlike the original parts that had a much larger hole that went straight up in the air & led to some weakness in the valve-train.
Make sure you soak the rollers & lash adjustment tensioners in oil for 24hr plus I would pump the adjusters up by hand just to check that they all feel good.
While new parts are "usually" good it doesn't hurt to double check, so make sure there is no play in the rollers on the followers & push the plunger in several times while under oil to ensure they all feel good & solid (I would say stiff, but the children will giggle at that).

Overstating the obvious: Make sure all your caps & bolts go back exactly where they came from.
Also make sure there is no excess oil or debris in the bolt holes as this can cause incorrect fitting & torque causing the cams to have excess room to move within the caps.
It also doesn't hurt to fill / soak the oil pump prior to installation.
You could take it apart & assembly lube it, but I prefer not to do that in case there is an issue & Melling says "sorry, you took it apart".
IMO, the 30 min + 10 min intervals is a bit overkill, but it just wastes time & a few $$$ for extra oil, so if you are good with it, go for it.
I would just be gentle on it for 500 or so miles, change the oil & call it good, but that's me.
Still on the "obvious track", you did the timing before so you probably know to be extra careful lining everything up while going back together.
If you want to be extra sure of your work, you could rotate the engine at least 4 full turns & if you have anything way off you will be able to feel a piston come in contact with a valve & you will know to stop immediately & correct it.
This is not exclusive to 3v engines but basically any similar engine that is an "interference engine" where physical contact will happen when the timing is off.
Besides that, take your time, double check everything as you go, limit your beer intake & you should be good.