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I've researched air compressors in the past and what I intend to get is a Saylor-Beall splash lube unit, probably 80gal/7.5hp. Cost-wise at the moment that isn't going to work. Down the road when I can do a shop install I'll cross that bridge.
For the mean time, I'd like something that is 60gal and at least 175psi with a 2 stage pump and 5hp motor (at least).
I did entertain the idea of a used unit. However, I am not sure I can get myself to do that anymore. We have a couple portable compressors that are both problematic. The tank in the one I've used in the past is rusted inside. I put a bore scope in there and it is downright scary. I replaced the tank with a 12gal portable air tank from Harbor Freight to get something going. The other one in the family noticeably leaks through pores in the tank. I don't consider either safe. And therein lies my issue with "used". I don't want to buy someone else's time bomb. How do you trust someone actually drained the tank regularly? Or are they just telling you what you want to hear to make the sale?
I went looking at Tractor Supply today and they have DeWalt and IR on the floor. The DeWalt's are single stage. The IR they had was 80gal/5hp and was 2 stage.
Looking online the pricing online seems way higher than what the units were on the floor I saw, but I did not jot down item/product numbers so I am just going off the main specs - tank size, hp, and # of stages.
Are there other lesser expensive brands worth looking at? Figure this would be an interim/back up unit at some point, but for the mean time would serve primary use, though intermittent (just used for projects, not every day). We have plenty of power available so hooking any of them up won't be an issue, so long as they are single phase 230/240v.
Champion was another brand that I had recommendations for, but in my research my preference goes to Saylor-Beall. I'm just not ready to cross to that ballpark of investment at the moment.
It would be helpful to know what you need for air powered stuff. Some tools are air hogs, others not so much. Duty cycle is not talked about much but important depending on what you are using. What is the cost difference between a temp compressor and your dream compressor. Is it worth spending the money on something that is temporary?
As to CFM - I was getting by with a 20gal/125psi unit* for a while. Though I dont have a CFM number, a 60gal/175psi unit will be quite the upgrade.
*That is the one with the 12gal HF tank now.
The impact I want to run is an Air Cat 3/4" pistol grip. It should have a 1/2" hose. Ive never had enough air to run it with much power thru a 3/8" hose.
Other things I run are paint sprayers and an Air Lift for coolant.
As to cost - the Saylor-Beall currently is in the $5000-6000 range, just the compressor with OEM options (cooler etc), not a whole shop install with plumbing + electric. The ones at TSC I saw are $900-1400. Big difference. So yes - it is cost effective at that range to get something "to get by with". Down the road, once I can upgrade it then what I find in the mean time can still be used as a back-up/secondary or a loaner to family/friends. So it still has a purpose.
So again - the question is who makes a reasonable comoressor the size Im looking for without spending an arm and a leg (IE - not cheap throw away like harbor freight).
I figured out the IR I was looking at the other day at the store is, in fact, a different model than what I found on the website. The compressor pumps are different.
Doing some digging - the one I was looking at in the store, 80gal (didn't have a 60gal equivalent on the floor that day) - has an inline 2 stage compressor pump: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...air-compressor
The inline compressor pump version is $600 less expensive than the V style.
I am not sure yet what the difference between the inline and V style compressors is. I know from my research with Saylor-Beall they have "splash lube" and "pressure lube", where the "pressure lube" has a spin-on oil filter like a vehicle engine and the oil is pumped through, vs an oil tank where the crank and connecting arms are bathed in oil and as it runs the parts throw oil up in to the block. The pressure lube units are said to last longer, but at the amount I'll use it I don't see much justification for that significant of a jump in cost. That, again, is in reference to my "down the road" compressor. It does, however, bring the question of the 2 different style compressor pumps in the above IR models - if the V style is more expensive - there may be a reason that goes back to the durability, and the reverse - if the inline is less expensive... Why?
Still digging...
On a side note, Tractor Supply carries DeWalt compressors, also. However, it appears you buy the name there. I am sure they work, but the IR's appear less expensive for what you get.
Senco is also an excellent brand. Now as an option, think about buying 2-3 pancake type (with the larger pumps) compressors and then a couple 5 gallon air tanks.... with the compressors manifolded together, the two tanks connected inline..... that will run anything you could need and if you assume that each compressor is $100, the tanks are $40, that's $380 and if one compressor fails you still have a backup.
I run a Senco compressor similar to this one... mine is older.... PC1010 - SENCO
along with a 5 gallon air tank and it will run everything i have..... with a second air compressor, it would eliminate a few seconds of down time that I sometimes get when using my spray guns.
Not sure about compressors but in my other world of power tools, the same manufacture can make two tools that look the same but have different model numbers. When you go to their websites one of them will not be there. They make them just for big box stores as such. they use cheaper components to build them. And when it comes to repairs, good luck, most won't touch them. Plumbing and electrical fixtures, i.e. lights and taps are the same way. Great pricing doesn't mean good quality.
As said you need to look at CFM the pump puts out and the tools you will be using not what the PSI the pump shuts off at or tank size.
If the tool you use uses 30 CFM @ 100 PSI but the pump only puts out 20 CFM you will be running out of air.
A larger tank only prolongs when you run out of air before you have to stop using the tool and build up air again.
Oh do you want that pump running nonstop because the CFM is below what the tool needs?
As for a drier depending on what you are using the air for a home made one may work, check YouTube.
Same with plumbing the shop there are kits that work great and look professional with as many air hose drops you want.
When I get home will post what I got that is way more than I will ever need.
And yes I did body work and painted my truck and the compressor cycle as it should did not run non-stop.
Dave ----
ps the CFM numbers were just numbers but pump CFM needs to be higher than the biggest user of air CFM is.
Compressor I got off Ebay just under $1000 had new motor and other work done to it so they said.
Was a back up in a 5 bay truck shop that they no longer needed.
It puts out way more CFM than I will ever use and worked great doing body work and painted my truck.
It is a 2 stage, 5hp, 220v / 1ph 80 gallon it did shut off at 190 PSI but my piping system was not rated fore that high so I turned it down to 175 PSI.
I found the starter had welded it's self closed and I think that was because the un-loader, releases psi when the unit starts, was bad.
I also found the heads loose so replaced the head gaskets and the reed valves.
You can see I have it going into a home made air drier made from fin tube base board tubing, copper fittings and some valves on the drip legs.
It works pretty good like it is if you are not using a lot of air then I set up a box fan to blow air across the fins to help cool the air.
Air goes in on the bottom left and out mid way on the right with 2 drip legs.
I the first picture air out of the drier into a regulator that I have since removed (went bad) and why I turned down the shut off PSI.
You can also see 1 of 5 air hose drops. 2 on the back wall in each bay, 1 on each side wall of the bays (the right side has a work bench where the other drop is) and the last on the front wall between the 2 bay doors. Each drop also has a drip leg.
Hose drop & drip leg, all 5 are like this.
This is the piping kits I used and bought some extra parts as needed for my lay out.
I made a complete loop around the top of my garage so it feeds from both directions. It also give more time for the air to cool off if needed.
I am vary happy with the setup, Better than a lot of shops have, been in place for almost 10 years now.
If my son gets his stuff outof my garage I want to get a blasting cabnet and my set up should handle it with out issues.
Oh the tank as an automatic blow down that opens think every 10 min. for like 5 seconds so there is no water in the tank ever!
When I am not in the garage the power is off to the compressor so if a line / hose should fail the compressor will not stay running till it burns up.
One of the best things I did for my garage and needing air.
Dave ----
