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I recently swapped the battery on my mom's 2013 Escape 2.0T (Titanium I think). What a PITA. The engineer that thought shoving the battery under the cowl should be forced to swap batteries for the rest of his life. Even the AAA guy that showed up to swap the battery said, "No thanks," and instead provided a jump start. On the plus side, mom (81 years old) learned how to connect the NOCO GB50 jump battery that she's had for ~5 years.
The battery was last replaced sometime in 2018 by the prior owner, most likely at the dealership since they were that kind of people and it was a Motorcraft battery. The dealership really screwed the pooch on that install. The air intake hose between the air box and manifold had been pinched on the manifold side, possibly letting in air. One of the air box screw holes was stripped and I'm not sure the filter was inserted properly so the airbox lid may have not been closed all the way. The hose clamps were oriented in a way that made it difficult to loosen/remove them. That got fixed for sure and the air box got a better screw to hold it down.
There was heavy corrosion on the negative battery terminal and lug. It took a few rounds of cleaning to remove all the corrosion. A light coat of anti-corrosion paste was applied to the terminals and lugs.
When I removed the intake hose, there was enough oil in the hose to make a mess on the engine cover. Is that normal?
The only way I can imagine the air intake tract being oil fouled is a defective CCV (CRANKCASE VENTILATION SYSTEM).
There are two CCV systems on an I-4 ECO-BOOST, the PART-LOAD SEPARATOR (incl PCV VALVE) behind the intake manifold and a FULL-LOAD SEPARATOR within the rocker cover. If either system is compromised can/will cause excessive crankcase pressure and force oil fumes into the INTAKE TRACK directly before the TURBO.
The FULL-LOAD SEPARATOR empties into the FRESH AIR TRACT before the TURBO and fumes should be ingested by the TURBO . If the oil fumes are excessive (not good), they may run back down towards the ACL after shutdown.
How many miles and frequency of oil changes? This is a GTDI engine and requires more frequent oil changes and a special rated engine oil.
Pull the tract section (ILL - NO. 17) off the TURBO and see if there is oil fouling on the TURBO BLADES themselves.
- or -
There is an EVAP CONNECTION on the fresh air lower tract tube that empties gasoline fumes into the INTAKE TRACT. If the TURBO has gone bad and is leaking oil, it will contaminate the CHARGE AIR COOLER and possibly be ingested into the THROTTLE BODY. The tube connects below the TB to the lower air intake tract. Excessive oil/crankcase pressure may be forcing itself through that tube.
Thanks for the information. I'll check that out. I don't recall how many miles are on the engine. She's the second owner, but the prior owner had it serviced at the dealership that mom bought it from used.
...the prior owner had it serviced at the dealership that mom bought it from used
Well, here's the heart-breaker ...
That valve has to be serviced just as the earlier ones were. It is usually forgotten as it is hidden and FORD makes no mention of servicing the system. One can get gnarly after about fifty-thousand miles and it will also coat the back of the intake valves ith burnt oil residue and carbon ...
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