Hey,

I need some instructions fast as my truck is in the middle of the driveway.

The story:
I was diagnosing my horn which doesn't work. Checked all the connectors for BCM one by one etc. nothing that special. Well, after stopping the diagnostics the truck doesn't crank at all. Is there a voltage limit or something that it doesn't even try to start if it's too low? My scanner is showing 11.5v.

I'm out of ideas. When unplugging the BCM does it lose some information or something? All the plugs went in nicely and the locking mechanisms down all the way. Did like five rounds to make sure it's not just a loose connector.

Please help, need to get the truck out of the way and I can't even push it ... What a day... Didn't even find the cause for the horn not working :/

 

Jump the truck or charge the batteries.

 

So is there a limit for voltage that prevents it from trying to start? I mean lights, instruments and everything light up normally. I was expecting like a typical slow winter morning start but it only clicks

 

Like scraprat said, but a charger on it or jump the truck and see what happens...

 

A couple years back I drove an hour to a dump station pulling the 5th wheel. Went inside paid for the dumped, came out took care of the duty. Go to fire up the truck nothing, no click, nothing. After checking electrical connections still nothing. Figured what the heck, pulled out/ hooked up the Noco GB150 jump pack and the truck fired right up. Drove straight to Wally and put 2 new batteries in it. There was no warning of dash battery light, nothing.

So try jumping it.

 

I hooked up a smart charger. I know, small power but I don't have anything to jump with at hand. I got the power off voltage to 12.0 but still didn't crank. I was able to pull off trouble codes and there was a long list of them. I presume low power is the reason for those One I keep getting again and again is b1310:14, which seems to be "run start control."

I'll leave it plugged in and report back when I have the voltage higher above 12v.

 

Did you have the ignition on when plugging and unplugging the modules? If so that maybe why so many error messages.

I would get the batteries charged the pull ground cables off and go for lunch come back and try again.
Good luck and post back with the fix.

 

Had it on charger for good 10 hrs. Took off battery cables for a minute and reconnected. Voltage at batteries is now 13.1V.

Still nothing. All powers up normally, but no crank. I'm getting really frustrated as Monday is coming soon. The truck has never had any starting issues etc. I noticed that one of the connectors on the bcm had little water damage when unplugging but still think that it can't be the culprit. All I tried to do was to get my horn to work...

 

Did you figure out the horn issue? Perhaps the no start and horn are related?

Did you use contact cleaner in/on the BCM connector? What did the BCM side look like? Corrosion can be a MF'r on/in modules.

Where did the water cone from? Is it rain/water intrusion or perhaps condensation from the AC?

You could have the batteries load tested as the voltage reading does not tell the whole story.

 

Check to see if it is in anti theft mode.

my 2019 can be put into anti theft mode and to get it out of that mode you have to play with the lock and unlock remote buttons.

 

I had a 2017 F250 6.7 that died in the Walmart parking lot in 2021 with no warning. Locked it and went inside, came out and tried to unlock it and all I got was a weird light flicker. Had to use the key to unlock it and couldn't get anything to work. Called my wife to come rescue me as I didn't think it could be voltage given the abruptness of the failure. Evidently when the battery gets below a certain voltage they fail drastically. Went back inside and luckily they had the right battery so I figured maybe it's the battery. Truck was 4 years old and it was cold out so it was worth a try. After I replaced it (passenger side), truck had no problems. Evidently they are very particular about voltage; at least my 2017 was. As a result I now keep a 12v usb adapter which displays running voltage in one of the cigarette lighter slots in the new 2022 F350, just in case.

 

Same issue, sort of...

Truck would go into limp mode. Batteries tested ok. Everything tested ok.

Nothing else worked so I changed the batteries, and no more problems.

Coincidence?

 

Back with some news, I might be on to something but I need your help. Already a big thanks of all the input. You are great!

My Toyota loving neighbor came to see my distress and after hearing how great and reliable Toyotas are for a good ten minutes, he help me to push the truck out of the driveway. I wonder how much loves to tell the story to every Toyota soulmate...

Today I double-check every fuse in the car and then decided to remove the BCM for a closer look.

I found watermarks in one of the connectors in the one with the shortest leads that sticks to the upper part of the BCM. Well, three connection rods were broken. I do not have any reference charts for the connectors, or a link where to get them. The truck is a 2019 f250 6.7. So if the broken ones lead to items that prevents horn and startup, we've got gold! Man I wish there was a donate button here for all the best advice here after we get it back running again.. The problematic connector I believe is B220F.


B220F broken pins (inside the female connector at the moment)


Arrow is showing the problematic connector and that side is up in the footwell

I then decided to open the whole unit for water intrusion inside the module, but the inside was nice and bone dry. I did spray it with electric cleaner and brushed all watermarks from connectors, and put it back together.



2019 6.7 BCM F250


So the main task I cannot do without correct documentation is to check which pins are related to which function.

While searching the living beep out of all possible forums I noticed that many have had water intrusion into this area behind the dash. I suspected lowsy job from the last guy who changed the windshield, as the water seems to sleep from the above.

I wonder what kind of MacGyver scorcery I need to do to get this thing moving... Module board pin extenders are really not a common thing.

I still do not think that the both batteries would be toast at the same time without any type of indication and voltages being normal.

Another thing I noticed that currently when I try to crank, it doesn't show the glow plug light which I at least think it should even during summer.

 

No glow plug lights on the newer my 2015 didn't have one. I sat in the lot looking for one and one of the mechanics came out and asked what the problem was, looking for the light. He laughed at me and said they don't have one unless it's needed. My 2022 sounds like a gasser, no light. On the water intrusion behind the dash, do you have a sun roof? If so check the drain and make sure it's open, you can blow air through.

 

Ok, still stranded. Could someone with access to schematic/wiring diagrams check if some of those broken pins in the BCM in my previous message could be the culprit?

I measured today that even with the ignition turned on, I do not have power to the fuses in the power control module that are regarded as ECU fuses. Also, the glow plug light doesn't turn on which it does normally.

I really need some help in this one. Never had a car not running at least without knowing why.

I did a forscan test for the BCM and here are the results. The one on the screen is related to the start issue I think. B-1310 run start control


Forscan results


Please help, I really appreciate all help to get this running again.