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Anyone using amsoil dual guard by pass filter on a 6.7?
Anyone have the amsoil dual guard bypass filter on their 6.7?
the dual guard is a two filter manifold which runs 2 micron filters only.
different than their manifold that relocates the filter and has both a 2 micron by pass and a full flow regular filter.
looking for feed back on any pressure spookiness on a 6.7.
I currently have the single universal by pass. This filter manifold has a hole inside where the filter mount threads are that are about the size of a pencil lead. So you basically get a fine stream.
I have waiting to be installed the dual guard. My concern is the size of the hole at the oil mount fitting …it’s almost the size of a pencil diameter.. and there are two in parallel . Can the 6.7 handle this?
spoke with amsoil and they said don’t worry, be happy…you are not going to have a problem.
but…the little voice in my head is saying figure out a way to put in a flow restrictor .
anyone out there running the dual guard?
thanks
my setup is the feed comes off the oil temp sensor port and the return goes directly into the oil pan. Just like the picture. To convert from present single to dual guard…it’s just a manifold swap. Same connections and mount points.
This is a full bypass filter system, like my FS2500, and you install a tee fitting into the path of the oil sending unit aka oil pressure sensor switch.
And you're currently running this one, correct? https://www.amsoil.com/p/universal-s...-system-bmk21/ if so, you should already have the tee fitting installed into the oil pressure sensor switch. All that does is send a low rate of flow, oil, to your single filter bypass.
You're still running your stock full flow oil filter right? As long as you have the full flow filter going, it just supplements it like your single filter bypass you have now. Adding the dual filter bypass is just adding more low flow micron filtering to the system. It sends a very low volume of oil to the bypass, so I don't think it'll hurt anything. That's just my opinion and view...
I believe I'm looking at this correctly...
I've gone past the recommended change interval for my bypass because I still have great flow to the swivel fitting on the their replacement oil fill tube cap.... I'll provide more detail later...
i found an in line turbo reducer fitting….so if I need to tweak the flow I can install it and drill it out .
not sure if psi is more important than flow. Tweak to get 1 quart per minute or just take some psi measurements ….stock no by pass filter…with the default large holes on the dual guard…vs comparing to what the single universal shows with its pin hole type center fitting.
see what happens when you are retired…everything becomes a major analysis project.
Hahahaha... you're going to drive yourself crazy fritz...
Okay found the pertinent info on my FS2500 bypass...
Installed on 11/05/18 with 33580 miles. That was with the original element that was contained in a metal "can." Those were rated for 10k miles. I changed it out next oil change at 40877 miles. Then they came out with a spin on filter conversion kit which I installed at 48317 miles with an oil change. The new spin on filters are rated for 15k miles or 350 hours. They are also $60 each... I then changed the bypass filter on 78080 miles, which was not the next oil change but the second change... the spin on filter had 14858 miles.
For the following later on oil changes at 85470, 92783 and 100017 miles, I just loosened the spin on bypass filter, retightened, cleaned up and re-used. This last change at 100k miles, I loosened and checked the flow back to the oil fill tube and there was good flow.
Right now the truck has about 106,400 miles on it. That means that the bypass filter has just over 28k miles... and I bet if I were to check, it would still be flowing. As a matter of fact, tomorrow I will look and see.
Stay tuned...
Just took these pics -- cold start... Good flow from FS2500 with just over 28k miles...
I've got a change coming up in under 1k miles... I have one FS2500 filter left... Maybe I'll change it...
Last edited by Overkill2; May 21, 2023 at 10:33 AM.
Reason: Add to post -- pics
For the following later on oil changes at 85470, 92783 and 100017 miles, I just loosened the spin on bypass filter, retightened, cleaned up and re-used. This last change at 100k miles, I loosened and checked the flow back to the oil fill tube and there was good flow.
Right now the truck has about 106,400 miles on it. That means that the bypass filter has just over 28k miles... and I bet if I were to check, it would still be flowing. As a matter of fact, tomorrow I will look and see.
Stay tuned...
Just took these pics -- cold start... Good flow from FS2500 with just over 28k miles...
.
Slightly OT, but I had an amsoil single bypass on my 04.5 Dodge with a similar oil cap return, which was great for checking flow and sampling. I used to change the bypass with my regular oil change but at, then $45 a filter, it got expensive so I started running the filter until the flow slowed or change it every other year. The flow never slowed and I always changed it every other year. Haven't used a bypass filter since I sold the truck back in 2011.
As far as the dual bypass, IMHO just makes the truck harder to maintain since now you are running a limited option of primary filters. A single bypass still gives you the benefit of the filter but with the ease of standard issue primary filters. Especially with how good the 6.7 PSD's stock filters are, I don't think the dual headed filter set up is worth the hassle.
As far as the dual bypass, IMHO just makes the truck harder to maintain since now you are running a limited option of primary filters. A single bypass still gives you the benefit of the filter but with the ease of standard issue primary filters. Especially with how good the 6.7 PSD's stock filters are, I don't think the dual headed filter set up is worth the hassle.
I think I agree with your last para.
the dual guard is not the same as the full flow+bypass.
the full flow and bypass on one manifold requires you to put a puck in place of the ford filter and then run amsoil filters on a relocated manifold. Which goes to your point of loosing ford standard filter flexibility. There are however a small list of early legacy filters avail in parts stores that can substitute for the amsoil filters .
the dual guard is basically a double universal bypass on a remote manifold. In my install setup…I’m taping the oil temp sender port for the feed and I am running the return into the afe aftermarket engine oil pan. There is an extra npt side port on that pan. This avoids the use of the puck and allows you to run any ford 6.7 compatible filter in the standard filter location. Right now I have a 1 qt stainless steel high flow billet filter there that uses a 6.7 thread pattern.
my concern is around the hole size of the single bypass restrictor ….it’s smaller than a number 2 pencil point vs no restrictor being used on the dual guard manifold . The effective hole size on any restrictive hole on the dual guard is a little smaller than an entire number 2 pencil diameter. Couple that with two filters being used in parallel and it makes me wonder how much oil pump capacity does the 6.7 really have especially since no 6.7’s have a new design oil pump, there is a new design ford 6.7 filter..and the last time I checked there were over 500 engine blocks on back order due to bearing failures…so the ford 6.7 oil system might not be as robust as we would like.
currently I have the single bypass installed and a new dual guard in a box waiting to be installed. I did find a not oil flow restrictor with a hole size in between the single bypass restrictor and the dual guard feed ports…so if I use it..I’ll get more flow than the single bypass but not wide open max flow that the manifold support. I can drill the restrictor once I figure out how to tweak. For example…do a test to see if I get a quart per minute and drill until I do…etc.
the dual guard is not the same as the full flow+bypass.
the full flow and bypass on one manifold requires you to put a puck in place of the ford filter and then run amsoil filters on a relocated manifold. Which goes to your point of loosing ford standard filter flexibility. There are however a small list of early legacy filters avail in parts stores that can substitute for the amsoil filters .
the dual guard is basically a double universal bypass on a remote manifold. In my install setup…I’m taping the oil temp sender port for the feed and I am running the return into the afe aftermarket engine oil pan. There is an extra npt side port on that pan. This avoids the use of the puck and allows you to run any ford 6.7 compatible filter in the standard filter location. Right now I have a 1 qt stainless steel high flow billet filter there that uses a 6.7 thread pattern.
my concern is around the hole size of the single bypass restrictor ….it’s smaller than a number 2 pencil point vs no restrictor being used on the dual guard manifold . The effective hole size on any restrictive hole on the dual guard is a little smaller than an entire number 2 pencil diameter. Couple that with two filters being used in parallel and it makes me wonder how much oil pump capacity does the 6.7 really have especially since no 6.7’s have a new design oil pump, there is a new design ford 6.7 filter..and the last time I checked there were over 500 engine blocks on back order due to bearing failures…so the ford 6.7 oil system might not be as robust as we would like.
currently I have the single bypass installed and a new dual guard in a box waiting to be installed. I did find a not oil flow restrictor with a hole size in between the single bypass restrictor and the dual guard feed ports…so if I use it..I’ll get more flow than the single bypass but not wide open max flow that the manifold support. I can drill the restrictor once I figure out how to tweak. For example…do a test to see if I get a quart per minute and drill until I do…etc.
Gotcha, I was thinking a fully remote filter kit not a dual bypass.
Might I ask what are you trying to get out of the dual bypass system? Amsoil themselves says this is for vehicles with 20+ quart sumps.
Seems beyond overkill, when you should have no problem getting 45-60k miles out of a single EaBP100 or 110 filter and with dual 2 micron filters, the second filter really isn't adding much to the party except for capacity that won't get utilized.
Not to sound like a Nadir point, but at best this provides limited to no benefit over a single bypass and at worst might cause issues with the oil system handing the additional capacity.
Slightly OT, but I had an amsoil single bypass on my 04.5 Dodge with a similar oil cap return, which was great for checking flow and sampling. I used to change the bypass with my regular oil change but at, then $45 a filter, it got expensive so I started running the filter until the flow slowed or change it every other year. The flow never slowed and I always changed it every other year. Haven't used a bypass filter since I sold the truck back in 2011.
As far as the dual bypass, IMHO just makes the truck harder to maintain since now you are running a limited option of primary filters. A single bypass still gives you the benefit of the filter but with the ease of standard issue primary filters. Especially with how good the 6.7 PSD's stock filters are, I don't think the dual headed filter set up is worth the hassle.
That's actually something to consider... Once a year or maybe sometime beyond. But that's exactly what I was thinking... If it still flows, it can't be clogged up. Appreciate the comments.
That's actually something to consider... Once a year or maybe sometime beyond. But that's exactly what I was thinking... If it still flows, it can't be clogged up. Appreciate the comments.
That was my thinking with the Amsoil bypass, they actually rate their filters for 60-70k of service life or 2 years.
On my Cummins it was off a plug on top of the oil filter housing, if the filter plugged then the original port was a plug anyways nothing is going to get starved for oil, I would run it as long as it flowed. I know it is diluting the new oil some when I changed oil and didn't change the bypass but I can't imagine it would have any material impact given the additional capacity.
Is that the filtered oil return to the crankcase? I'm a little surprised it is still so dark.
Most soot in the block is sub-micronic in size, not filter of any practical value is going to get it all. In addition, CJ and CK oils are formulated to keep the soot suspended in the oil and thus not aggregating and increasing wear so the oil darkens faster and stay dark.
Even in my 04.5 Cummins, which had a way less aggressive form of EGR (retarding the third injection event) the oil would turn jet black and stay that way even with a bypass filter.
On my Cummins it was off a plug on top of the oil filter housing, if the filter plugged then the original port was a plug anyways nothing is going to get starved for oil, I would run it as long as it flowed. I know it is diluting the new oil some when I changed oil and didn't change the bypass but I can't imagine it would have any material impact given the additional capacity.
Yeah I went to the Amsoil site after Fritz posted this to see the Amsoil filters are rated far out... that's what I figured too. If it plugs up, it wouldn't affect the amount of oil much. I removed the filter and drained it when I did the oil changes.
Is that the filtered oil return to the crankcase? I'm a little surprised it is still so dark.
Like Rufus said, it gets black not long after changing... and soot comes in sub-micron size also... I know it's overkill but I like having it on the truck.
Like Rufus said, it gets black not long after changing... and soot comes in sub-micron size also... I know it's overkill but I like having it on the truck.
I knew diesel motor oil turned black even in the pre-EGR days. It just caught me off guard seeing the oil still black after fine bypass filtration.
