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Question for folks who installed the American Autowire classic upgrade harness. Did you purchase their double & single crimper set (https://www.americanautowire.com/sho...-crimper-set)? If no, what did you do instead? Looking for any advice on if the custom crimpers are necessary and worth $160 for a onetime project or not. TIA
I did this a couple of years ago and purchased the AAW crimpers. If you're doing the whole rewire, you want crimpers that work well with the contacts. There might be a better crimper than the AAW - particularly one that would ratchet, so you can hold the contact in the crimper while you get the wire set. I'll be reminded soon, I have a few new connections to make for an EFI install I'm getting ready to do.
Check out post #8 in this thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...g-harness.html
I took the advice of others, wanted to make sure I had the right crimpers. I really didn’t want to purchase new, as they are expensive and I knew I’d be done with them once I finished this project. Lucky for me, I found a used set on eBay for a reduced price. The seller used them and we’re passing them on, as I intend to do. Hopefully, I will finish the wiring this coming summer, has to take the previous summer off the project due to other commitments.
Did just start adding wiring for EFI - I'll be tapping into an accessory connector on their kit for fused IGN and BATT power. First practice crimp with the AAW crimper did just fine.
Related question on wiring for you folks that have done this. Did you opt to wrap the harness, like original or something else? Modern wire loom, or just unwrapped?
A set of good crimpers is worthwhile and it looks like thirs is made in USA. I don't know that you should have to pay $160 but they look like good crimpers that probably work on other terminals, not only whatever they use.
I have a set of ratcheting MSD Crimpers with interchangeable jaws which can crimp just about anything and work well. When I got those, they were priced pretty reasonably and there weren't many other similar options but now there are many.
Like most tools, you probably don't need the most expensive crimpers, but you also don't want the cheapest. Get something in the middle of the price range and it will work great and make the job easier.
Related question on wiring for you folks that have done this. Did you opt to wrap the harness, like original or something else? Modern wire loom, or just unwrapped?
I think it depends on what you are looking for on the finished product.
I added wiring to my 81 F100 flare side like head light relays that had its own covering but in bright yellow but for me I was able to tuck it between the radiator & the radiator support and cant be seen.
Other is wiring for electric trailer brakes. Power and ground wire had to be run from the battery across the radiator support and into the cab (ground) and down to the frame rail (power) to the rear.
And I also added driving / fog lights into the front bumper and the kit did not come with wrapping.
On any of the loose wiring to "dress it up" I used spiral wrap. It was a pain to put on the wires but it looks pretty good and anywhere a wire had to be pulled out it was easy to do so.
Being black wrap and run along the same wiring as the factory even in the same holders you dont really see it as added wiring other than a breaker & fuse at the battery area.
I had to take a style side tail light harness and mod it to my flare side and I dont remember what I used but want to say it was the split loom wrap. To lazy to go out and look LOL
Now if you are looking for a factory tape look then only tape will work.
BTW it is not the sticky electrical tape that the factories use, it dose not have the sticky part.
Dave ----
I got a ratchet crimper from Harbor Freight for pretty cheap. I will say the problem I've ran into are the terminal connections. I have a mechanic buddy and asked for his advice and he said they just hammer them closed haha
I think it depends on what you are looking for on the finished product.
I added wiring to my 81 F100 flare side like head light relays that had its own covering but in bright yellow but for me I was able to tuck it between the radiator & the radiator support and cant be seen.
Other is wiring for electric trailer brakes. Power and ground wire had to be run from the battery across the radiator support and into the cab (ground) and down to the frame rail (power) to the rear.
And I also added driving / fog lights into the front bumper and the kit did not come with wrapping.
On any of the loose wiring to "dress it up" I used spiral wrap. It was a pain to put on the wires but it looks pretty good and anywhere a wire had to be pulled out it was easy to do so.
Being black wrap and run along the same wiring as the factory even in the same holders you dont really see it as added wiring other than a breaker & fuse at the battery area.
I had to take a style side tail light harness and mod it to my flare side and I dont remember what I used but want to say it was the split loom wrap. To lazy to go out and look LOL
Now if you are looking for a factory tape look then only tape will work.
BTW it is not the sticky electrical tape that the factories use, it dose not have the sticky part.
Dave ----
Thanks for the reply, although it took me a while to get the notification. I started on mine, summer before last, but did nothing last summer due to a couple of other important projects (and back issues) I have the harness generally laid out in the engine bay, have not made any end connections yet. I am aware to use only non stick black tape, and started wrapping some of it. I think it will be hard to make it look “factory”’ but I want some kind of covering for it. If it doesn’t look right, I may end up putting a more modern covering on top of that. I think the rear harness will be much easier, but under dash is gonna be challenging.
I built a complete harness for my 50 y/o Yamaha using sleeving with shrink wrap on the ends. You have to plan ahead but one big advantage is you can hide your splices inside the sleeve. The rat's nests on bikes are normally under the tank and in the headlight bucket ... but not mine.
I'll do something similar on my old truck someday, but having recently learned about 3G alternators that'll need to come 1st.
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