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I did a little searching before posting and couldn't find anything so here goes.
I have an original 64' f100 shortbed with 223 and manual 3 speed I've been driving since 2003. It's got the original clutch that works great but my throw out bearings started squealing this week so I'd like to go ahead and swap out the clutch plates while I'm down there. I've changed out countless clutches on my motorcycles but never on a car.
Questions i have are:
- what else do I need to get besides the bearings and clutch plates? Are there any seals, gaskets, special tools to do the job properly?
- who carries the best f100 parts? Looking for one-step shopping.
- parts site i looked at list clutch and then a clutch pickup... And throw out bearings and pickup.. what are these pickups and do i need to change them also?
Clutch pickup? no idea.. Besides the throw out bearing and disc why not the pressure plate? Also check the condition of the pilot bushing in the rear of the crank..
Order as a kit with clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bushing, and alignment tool. Looking at the listing, it appears you will need to know whether you have a 10” or 11” clutch. The only seal you will deal with/disturb in any manner is the rear transmission seal when the driveshaft is removed. If you see oil/fluid in the clutch area when you get the tranny out, you need to find the source and fix it before putting it back together. When I do a clutch replacement, in most cases, I also replace the u-joints, carrier bearing for applications with two piece driveshafts, any bushings in the clutch linkage, the rear tranny seal, and the front tranny seal at the input shaft. Good Luck.
Here is a link for a clutch kit:
Additionally check the flywheel surface for wear, cracking, etc.; you can take it to a machine shop to be resurfaced if needed. Also take a good look at the ring gear the starter engages with; replace ring gear if it’s chewed up.
Order as a kit with clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bushing, and alignment tool. Looking at the listing, it appears you will need to know whether you have a 10” or 11” clutch. The only seal you will deal with/disturb in any manner is the rear transmission seal when the driveshaft is removed. If you see oil/fluid in the clutch area when you get the tranny out, you need to find the source and fix it before putting it back together. When I do a clutch replacement, in most cases, I also replace the u-joints, carrier bearing for applications with two piece driveshafts, any bushings in the clutch linkage, the rear tranny seal, and the front tranny seal at the input shaft. Good Luck.
Here is a link for a clutch kit:
I’m not sure without being there to scratch my head and ponder a solution. I suppose you could remove the splash shield from bottom of bell housing and fish some sort of reference material up in there to see if you could get an accurate enough radius measurement to determine the diameter. But, again I would have to have eyes on it to feel comfortable with that kind of indirect method.
223 with a 3 speed is more then likely a 10", but you never know what may have been changed in the past 60 years..
It had been parked in the garage by the original owner from 79' to the time i got it (had only 70k miles). Every detail on it was original, pretty sure the clutch hasn't been changed so gonna order the 10" and find out.
All I've done to it since I got it is all new rubber, swap out the generator to an alternator, electronic ignition, head job, rebuilt the starter and added 100k miles to the odometer.
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