First, thanks to everyone who contributes to this great forum. I have learned a lot from it.

My '63 Unibody needs a clutch. I've changed a couple of motors and changed an A/T out from under a Mustang long ago, but never a clutch. I hear it's pretty easy, which is right up my alley.

My truck, VIN F10BR380852, came with the optional 262 i6 and three on the tree, now converted to floor shift.

I have a few initial questions:

1) How can I determine the exact type of transmission/clutch I have?
2) Would a 262-equipped F100 have a different trans than 223-equipped trucks?
3) Should I try to buy parts now or wait until I tear it apart to see what kind of shape everything is in?

Any other thoughts or advice on the job would be appreciated.

 

If anybody's interested, I determined the clutch is the same for the 223 & 262. (EDIT: apparently this is not the case. See below for more accurate information)

I ordered a clutch kit ($202) and will pick it up tomorrow.

Tonight, I start tearing into it.

 

Make sure your kit will fit before attempting to installing it. Most parts stores have an incorrect 12" clutch listed. The pressure plate is usually too big.
Back when I had to do this, I wound up having to forget local parts stores and even the classic car places and go to a place that deals specifically with brakes and clutches.
If it actually is correct, let us know the part number and from where you got it.

 

1961/64 F100/350: 223 could have either a 10" or 11" clutch. 262 has an 11" clutch. I hope you ordered the right size.

1963 F100/250's came with the Ford type 3.03 3 speed all syncromesh manual transmission (intro'd in 1963). The same basic trans was used thru 1983 for F100's, 1975/86 F150's.

Also used in 1966/77 Bronco's, 1965/87 E100/150's and in myriad 1963/80 Passenger Cars.

 

Thanks for the heads-up! I called and clarified that it's the 11" clutch. This is Advance Auto Parts. They are pretty much the only store that lists a 262 engine option for this truck in their system. FYI, they show the same part number for both the 223 and 262. So apparently their system doesn't show a 10" clutch for a 223. I will provide the part number for this clutch kit after I get it and confirm it's correct.

I will start the remove tonight. With a little (okay, a lot) of luck I'll get the transmission out, or at least disconnected tonight.

 

C5TZ-7550-D (replaced B6D-7550-D & 81T-7550) .. 11" Clutch Disc / C0TT-7563-A (replaced B7Y-7563-A) .. 11" Pressure Plate.

Apps: 1961/64 F100/600 223/262 I-6 / 1957/60 F100/250 223 I-6.

Disc only: 1938/47 Commercial (1/2 ton), 122" wheelbase (3/4 ton) truck / 1948/51 F1/F6 226/254 L-6, 239 flatty / 1952/56 F100/600 215/223 I-6.

Posted this same jazz a coupla days ago in the 1948/56 forum (also the 10" info), cuz of the usual FAQ: Waaa .. ma ma .. what size is the clutch in my truck?

 

Hey, I resemble that remark!

 

Don't feel like you're the Lone Ranger, and besides the clutch queston the other FAQ is: What A/T does my truck have? You'd probably be amazed on how many wrong answers peeps chime in with.

No Ford shop manuals or parts catalogs, zero Ford Dealer mechanical/parts experience, so some simply have no clue.

They guess or surmise, or call the A/T by the wrong name, usually it's FMX instead of FX or MX Cruise-O-Matic.

 

What size clutch is stuffed between a 390fe and a t98? And does anyone know if there performance clutches for a replacement?

 

Quick status update: I got the transmission out and all cleaned up. The clutch was beyond worn, and the rivets wore grooves in the flywheel. Picked up the resurfaced flyweel over lunch and will get it all back together tonight. The clutch (11") looks like the right match but is not an exact duplicate (different size and number of springs on the clutch plate).

I left the bellhousing attached to the engine so I had to maneuver the clutch down and out. It might be tricky to get back in without getting it all grimy...

I'll give another update when it's done.

 

I got the clutch in and the transmission back in place last night. We actually taped the clutch to the pressure plate and installed them together, then removed the tape. That worked pretty well and minimized the handling of the clutch.

Before I button it up I still need to replace the transmission oil seal where the drive shaft enters. This week is looking really busy so it may be a few days or next week before I can finish up.

The clutch and pressure plate seem to be the correct size and fit fine, but I'm running into a puzzling issue: I have the adjuster between the pedal arm and the fork screwed all the way out, so its as long as it can be, and I still seem to need more length. It is working, but the clutch releases/engages when the pedal is pretty close to the firewall. I feel like I need about another inch to get it adjusted properly. Could the flywheel being turned cause that much of a difference? At this point, the only thing I can think of to address this is to have the adjuster rod modified and lengthened. Thoughts?

 

After reading it appears that you did not replace the pressure plate also? If you did was it the same type / style? Did you replace the throw out bearing? If you did was it the same type / style (length) The surfacing of the flywheel would not change the adjustment that much. They probably only took off .030-.060 inches
So here are a few things to look at first. You can see these through the opening in the bell housing that the clutch fork goes through.

1/ Is the clutch fork still attached to the pivot ball on the bell housing
2/ Is the clutch fork lined up in the groove of the throw out bearing
3/ Is the throw out bearing installed correctly ( with the bearing surface next to the pressure plate.

 

I looked it up at advance auto and came up with part number MU72166-1. Is that correct?
The pressure plate in the picture for that part is a diaphragm style. Diaphragm plates are typically thinner than the stock pressure plates. This is probably why you do not have any adjustment left.
If this is the case, you will need to find or make a longer rod.

 

MNTBUGGY, I think the answer to all 3 is "yes" but I will double check everything. The fork is mounted correctly, I'm confident of that. We removed it as well as it's pivot point to more easily get the clutch/pressure plate back in.

I was thinking about putting a washer under this clutch fork pivot point to raise it seems like that will help.

I will see if I can get the throw out bearing out to check and compare it with the old one.

charlie, That is the correct Autozone part number, but the image that comes up is a different clutch. The pressure plate appears to be the same as the original, not like that image.

It may be a few days, but I will update.

 

Update: I had the adjuster rod lengthened and am good to go with the new clutch. Thanks for all the input!