When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
We headed out yesterday for a 250 mile trip to take the 5’er in for some warranty work. Truck was pulling along nicely, eating up the miles just like it did on our month long vacation. Pulling a good grade about 5 miles long, probably 8%. About half way up I noticed a strange chirping/whistling sound. Cresting the top, there was kinda a chug/hop and instant loss of power. Pulled off to check things out but didn’t see anything out of the ordinary, except for the shaking engine. Idle was really rough, no power. Decided to head down the road to gather some more info. Speed at 15-20 mph max under its own power, ECT 220, EGT 175, trans temp 168. Nursed it along for about 20 miles to reach the nearest Walmart camp ground. Cold start this morning and it runs good for 5-10 seconds, then starts the rough running with an instant check engine light. P1316 is the code. While driving on the shoulder last night I put in a call to @Sous for road side advice. Multiple troubleshooting directions this morning with more phone time and multiple texts and we’re kinda at the conclusion the IDM is the culprit. That’s the best we could surmise with the limited resources I brought along on this trip. I’ll never leave my home Valley again without my laptop and FORScan cable! It appears the drivers side bank is shut off for whatever reason. I pulled the valve cover to do the 50 cent mod and it has the valve cover gaskets without the connector inside, so that mod isn’t possible.
Good Sam is taking my trailer to the dealership, my son is on his way with a trailer to load the truck on. Worst part so far is the rescuing truck is a Duramax…
If anyone has any other suggestions to look at, I’m game for the advice.
Jack, I am sorry we couldn't figure out what is going on. For anyone following along...
He checked fuel level, oil level, CPS, EOT sensor, IPR tin nut and connector, unplugged ICP, driver side UVCH and valve cover harness, UVCH for burnt pins, 42 pin connector wire, each injector connector on driver side, PCM and IDM connectors.
I suspect a fault in the IDM control circuit or IDM as the entire driver bank is not working.
He was unable to see if the injectors were putting oil out of the discharge spouts.
He was not able to check fuel pressure or PID's via FORScan.
Nice accounting of what I tried. You listed things there I forgot I checked. On further checking while waiting for a tow, I noticed on start up when it runs good, it kinda feels like it has a single miss right away, then the full back stops working. You said something about IDM recognizing an non working injector, then it will shut down the whole bank? I feel like that is what’s happening.
Yes, the IDM will/may shut down an entire bank if it sees a problem with an injector. Although, you said you checked the injector connectors, so that is all you are capable of doing with minimal tools in a parking lot.
The only thing that really comes to mind would be to try the passenger valve cover gasket on the driver side to rule out that possibility. I'm pretty sure Dorman makes those integrated valve cover gaskets and I'm not bashful letting people know how I feel about their products. I will be hand-delivering people in hell ice water before Dorman ever gets a dime of my money.
Well, Good Sam let me down again. That’s strike two for them. I’ll give them one more shot then quit giving them money.
Made it home with the truck, trailer is 200 miles away at a friends house.
Tomorrow I’ll get FORScan going on it and see what we see. After the ride way up in the air on the trailer in 37* temps, it wasn’t wanting to stay running when trying to get it off the trailer. Still runs pretty good for the first few seconds, then like crap and dies when it’s that cold.
The only thing that really comes to mind would be to try the passenger valve cover gasket on the driver side to rule out that possibility. I'm pretty sure Dorman makes those integrated valve cover gaskets and I'm not bashful letting people know how I feel about their products. I will be hand-delivering people in hell ice water before Dorman ever gets a dime of my money.
I was going to ask the general opinion on the Dorman gaskets. If my info on these is correct, they have 120k on them. More to look into…
We left Good Sam behind about a year ago in favor of Coachnet. They offered a deep discount for a 5 year contract.
Glad to see you made it home.
Get FORScan on it when you have time, take some data logs, perform a buzz test (KOEO Injector Electrical Test) and that will most likely tell you the next step.
Udsuth78 has a good idea and advice, as usual.
My thoughts on Dorman are similar, except there are times when I may install something of theirs in order to get back on the road. Some people like the UVCH because it is one piece design, but I went Alliant/OEM a while back.
I still think the issue is electrical and focused on the UVCH, IDM control circuit or the IDM. But, I have been wrong before...
Trouble on the road, yikes! Sounds like you're soldiering thru tho.
Lots of good advice above. Also check the underside of the harness that runs to the 42 pin connector. Can rub and short on the valve cover.
Here's an idea; clear the codes, then do a buzz test on a cold engine. Then do it again after the engine has run a bit and starts misbehaving. If cold is good and warm is bad I would think that shows the wiring and VC gaskets are all good, just the IDM is freaking out for some reason.
Trouble on the road, yikes! Sounds like you're soldiering thru tho.
Lots of good advice above. Also check the underside of the harness that runs to the 42 pin connector. Can rub and short on the valve cover.
Here's an idea; clear the codes, then do a buzz test on a cold engine. Then do it again after the engine has run a bit and starts misbehaving. If cold is good and warm is bad I would think that shows the wiring and VC gaskets are all good, just the IDM is freaking out for some reason.
Good luck!
This ain't a bad idea with the hot cold comparison but I disagree on that ruling out wiring and such, only because I've seen that scenario once before. Granted it was on a Jeep, but it is a diesel Jeep so I give it a pass, plus it's my daughters so Dads gotta do what Dads gotta do. What turned out was as the engine temp came up everything was expanding which started driving up resistance until it was to much for the 5vref and killed the engine.
I was talking to Jack and he was on the tail end of buttoning up the valve cover and associated plumbing. I wish I had caught him sooner to have him do a good visual inspection of the UVCH on the driver side, but he is home now and will be able to take his time with it.
@Xela had a "struggle" of a time sorting out an intermittent engine stalling issue recently.
Turned out to be a UVCH wire that made intermittent contact...
Well, Good Sam let me down again. That’s strike two for them. I’ll give them one more shot then quit giving them money.
Made it home with the truck, trailer is 200 miles away at a friends house.
We use BCAA equivalent to your AAA and have the RV+ option for myself with the rest of the family on a regular plan.
I have had just the trailer towed once, and then the truck, and trailer towed another time. I’m not sure on the yearly cost, but I do know it’s paid for itself.
I got a little shop time tonight. Buzz test gave me 2 codes.
P0276, #6 injector circuit low.
P1276, #6 High to low side open.
Not sure what that second one means….
From the FSM:
I'd say test your harness starting from the IDM connector and work your way towards the injector until you find the fault. Nothing kills an IDM faster than a short.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
