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I have a 2011 F450 Superduty, 6.7L power stroke Dually 170k miles. I’ve had the truck 2 1/2 months with no issues, until 4 days ago. I drove the truck, no issues. Parked overnight, the next morning, it won’t start. No crank, no turnover. my daughter had left her LED floor lights on in the truck overnight. I assumed that was the issue. I have a trickle charger with an Engine start option. I plugged it in and attached it. Truck started right up, first try. Threw the charger into the back with a 50’ extension cord (JIC) and headed out. no other starting or cranking issues the remainder of the day. Went home. Parked, LED lights were NOT left on that night. Following AM, same issue. Repeated the process. Same outcome…. the rest of the day, no problems. I drove to O’Reilly’s last night. Had them check the alternator… it was “Good.” Checked the batteries. They checked out as “good.” 3rd day (This AM) won’t start again. No turnover, no crank. All dash lights, including AC & radio come on with zero dimming. The trickle charger says 16.4Amps, and the meter shows ;;; lol about 25 on both Batteries every morning. I’m not certain the age on the batteries, serial number says (062020) which makes me think they’re from June 2020, but there isn’t a traditional month/yr area that I’m used to seeing. but I’ll look later and report back. I’ve already dropped $7k into my 2004 F350 for myriad “6,0L” engine troubles after it was sold to me as “bulletproofed” I’m REALLY hoping this is a quick easy fix, because I have an unavoidable trip to FL & then PA (from TX) beginning next week, for work. Any suggestion is appreciated. Only two lights come on (Engine & Battery) when key is engaged in “On/Crank” position. No other codes or lights.
Does it make a click when you try to start? If so. it still may be the batteries. Experts (like my Ford dealer) don't know to disconnect one battery and test them individually.
There is a single “click” at each starting attempt.
Yesterday, the truck sat ALL DAY while I was at a show. (Approx 10 hrs which is longer than most of it’s overnight sits.)
I got in, expecting it not to crank, but it fired right up. I was surprised, but I moved it over about 30 feet to facilitate loading up the back end. It sat for approx 40 min. And then wouldn’t crank. I tried twice more, and on the 3rd attempt, it hesitated and then began to crank just as I was turning the key back to neutral. I attempted a 4th time, and it repeated the hesitation, (kind of a pause) then it cranked.
Im baffled.
Now I’m thinking Starter? cam? Faulty wire? It would make more sense if it had been completely random all along, but it hasn’t been until yesterday. It’s been 100% only 1st thing in the mornings. …. Until last night.
Does it make a click when you try to start? If so. it still may be the batteries. Experts (like my Ford dealer) don't know to disconnect one battery and test them individually.
It would be revealing to do a voltage drop test on your truck. This will tell you what the circuit resistance is under load. To do a voltage drop test, set your DVOM to DCV. Hook up the DVOM positive lead to the positive battery terminal. Hook the DVOM negative to the starter terminal. Try to start it and read the voltage on the DVOM. If you have a problem with secure connections whether due to being loose or corroded, the test will show you how much voltage is being lost in that part of the circuit. If everything is in tip top shape, it will show zero or nearly zero voltage drop. One volt isn't bad, but more than that and you have to run down where the problem is. You can move the negative probe to the next connection up the line and do the same test. If, for example, your DVOM showed a four volt drop in the long run, and then shows zero on that next test then you know the problem is in that span of the circuit. You can also do this test on the ground side of the circuit. You always want to test on the most complete point-to-point so you can see if there is a system problem before running down precisely where the problem is.
I'm of absolutely no help on the electrical part, but am curious what you find out to be the actual cause.
May I ask if you're positive that's a 450? Reason being, is that those don't look like 19.5's. And I wasn't aware that Ford made a 450 with a pickup bed back then, it doesn't look like a 60" c/a truck with a 56" bed added.
I'm of absolutely no help on the electrical part, but am curious what you find out to be the actual cause.
May I ask if you're positive that's a 450? Reason being, is that those don't look like 19.5's. And I wasn't aware that Ford made a 450 with a pickup bed back then, it doesn't look like a 60" c/a truck with a 56" bed added.
2011 f450 is really what used to be (2010) a f350 tow boss. Stock tires are 17 inch. It differs from the f350 with a wide track front axle, larger discs and 4:30 diff
